Ascents in Arapiles as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

Had Wendy's gear in. Great climbing.

Good but not two stars as I recall.

Good fun but HAGF is the better route if you have the juice.

Needs rebolting. The start is crimpy and not that great. It's a better route to do the start of Claw and join the traverse at about 4m. Gear is not totally bomber with a shallow cam pretty much all between you and the ground.

The roof is good climbing, the crux is mantling onto the slab over the lip! Worth a star.

It was a long time ago, but seemed more like 23

A bit thin on gear

Great climbing, probably 23, bolts need replacing. Takes a small wire after last bolt.

Just the first pitch - after which the rope we were using disintegrated spectacularly. Glad I didn't fall off!

Hard finish is out of keeping - The Squeaky Wheel is much better

Not that great. RPs at the start, it's a bit bold but the climbing and rock are not that great.

Not worth a star. There is gear to protect you before the bolt but the rock is pretty questionable. Climbing isn't that special.

This is the only route I can think of that I don't think should have been rebolted. The bolts were so obviously rubbish from the day they were put in that it made it quite atmospheric - a bolted death route. Now it's not really worth doing, as the climbing is just average.

Thought this was good but not two stars. Have done second pitch, remember it being loose feeling and not much gear but don't remember the climbing being great. Might be worth doing it again.

I found this scary. The wires at the start take a lot of finding, and the top is runout above a dead tree to impale yourself on!

Bolts need replacing

Hard scary start to desperate finish. Not 22, at all.

Start is a bit goey, even with bolt clipped. Crux moving out from top of flake feels blind and exposed and out there - but the runner is really not that far away. It just feels far away.

I didn't think this was worth a star... or even worth doing again.

One very hard move...

Finish is runout, not the start.

I did the sensible version - up XI to to the top of the crack, then L to the bolt. I found it quite technical, puzzling and blind. Good!

Has new bolts, yay.

Rusty bolt, fragile rock, dodgy gear, don't bother.

On my 23rd birthday!

Very good but slick

Great - hard, continuous and varied. Only just managed to squeak up this one.

If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.

I saw Moorhead/Muir '81 in the guide and prepared myself to be sandbagged - but it is fair for 23 and the gear is ok - just an exception to keep you on your toes. Crux is not as nice as the rest of the route.

It's definitely not 18. The start is about 21 and then you pull through the roof on a 2 finger pocket (crux) and end by mantling a horn on the arete.

Really not that great, and quite scary now that the pins have fallen out.

Fabulous steep jamming. Wonderful.

Tricky and pumpy at the top

Cute!

Always a little scary.

Reproductive-organ-tearing-megaclassic. There is a small wire in the jug on the right after the first bulge.

Pretty tough!

Take care with gear.

I'd give it one star. A bit runout through and after the crux and rock is a bit dodgy up high

This route's ok but I don't seem to love it like everyone else.

Utterly desperate start with worrying gear, at the top is a slightly desperate corner with slightly worrying gear.

Good I remember, with a great wire slot in the blankest part.

Jesus fracking Christ. Didn't know what I was getting myself in for. First runner is at about half height. After that I took note of Warwick Baird routes!

Interesting and fun. Had a hillarious ascent with Cate where I clawed my way up getting pumped out of my brain, then Cate floated up finding all manner of rests including a no hands kneebar where I was most pumped!

Better starting from Anything At All and traversing in.

Exciting crux above the gear.

Classic slick desperate Arapiles seam.

Technical and pumpy placing the gear

Loose feeling and not that well protected. Double ropes are good.

The bolt is rubbish, and you might hit the ground off the crux even if it held.

I have got a wire in before the bolt, but it seems to be a very specific size as I have gone up twice subsequently and not been able to place it. Best solution is to take a clip stick!