Routes in Organ Pipes Gully

"If you enjoy crumbling sea cliffs, you might feel at home on this" (Mentz-Tempest guide). Climb through moss to a ledge, to stand below the striking grey prow. Some gymnastic moves are required to get started, and if your second is not tall they will struggle to remove the gear you placed out of their reach at this point. Follow the line of pockets up, veering left at the end.

Start 1m R of Private Detective. Go diagonally R, across Stentor pitch 3, and up arete. The Direct Start (18) starts 3m R of Stentor's 3rd pitch and goes straight up to the arete. Note the March 2004 route dubbed "Skin Flute" (14m 18) by Shaun Kratzer and Joshua Janes is almost certainly a repeat of this Direct Start.

Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole.

Start: Start under the arch.

Start on top of the Piccolo pipe and climb the middle of the wall on the D Major pipe. The start is a little bold but the rest of the route protects well. Finish at rap bolts.

Up the slick crack, traversing left to join Steel Delinquency. Probably not a good route to choose if your seconder can't jamb, because they'll likely hit the ledge if they come off at the start.

Start: Start beneath the white L-arching crack.

Fairly ordinary. Start on the back of the Piccolo Pipe, about 5m L of Lemmington.

Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish.

Start: Start 2m R of SDV.

Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors.

Short flake, then up wall past 2 RB and small gear to DRB.

Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS.

Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.

Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs.

Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way.

Straight up the flake.

Start: Start as for V.

The speckled face which may have a fixed wire. Start up around L of FP.

R and up at top.

Start: Start R of TFoC.

Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds. Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT.

The squeeze chimney. 'Classic'. Start R of T.

Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak. Start as for FP.

Start at the small flake but step L and then up.

Start: Start 2m R of CS.

Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV.

Flake then short wall.

Start: Start in middle of wall.

Start 8m R of Tubby Tuba. Up fragile looking flakes to join Iron Void. Gear may be suspect.

Not well protected, a serious lead. Up Private Detective to seam (about 4m), diagonally left across face and up just right of arete.

Start just L of Lemmington. The shallow groove, becoming very contrived to stay out of Lemmington.

Up the face with 1 BR. Start as for FB.

The corner.

Start: Start at the R end of Stockyard Wall.

The fine line L of the slim tree. Start on small orange face which is below and faces the same direction as the Flashing Blade.

Traverse out above The Flashing Blade, using the handholds of that route as footholds!

The chimney between the Finger Prince and Iron Void pinnacles past funny blocks and ancient machine nut.

A completely separate route despite the name! Start right of Iron Void and up.

Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR. Start up L of SO.

Trench Rawfare - It'll leave you raw!

Offwidth/Roof trench on the right hand side of Steel Delinquency Pinnacle. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Finger Prince.

Go up cave roof and out. Rappel Anchors installed at top of climb.

Offwidth Size Dependent!!

BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR. Start in gully L of F.

Heavy duty jams get you started on the flake system on the arete, then move L to guano and up to flake. Start at the L arete of the 4th pinnacle.

Small flake, face, small overlap then tend R. This route looks almost entirely unprotected. Start at the yellow wall which is above and R of Frenzy.

Start just R of F. The low red wall capped by a roof is taken via bouldery face moves then a crack. Finish up groove.

A link-up of the first part of Bandwagon into the finish of Passionate Tips.

1. 20m (25) Take the RH crack through bulge, then move L after roof and up flake.

2. 20m (-) Simple crack in the middle of the face.

Start 5m R of WT. The incipient flake - take plenty of #1 RPs.

Start just R of DM. The crack then slender buttress.

The L-facing corner, curving L at the end.

Start: Find this as described above.

Start on wall R of DM. Up to the bolt then go R to arete and back L to puzzling moves up the seam. You can also boulder past the bolt at very contrived 24 but it's a better route at 21.

The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.

Start: Start R of LS.

Good. Start at the buttress R of DM.

Cops an absolute bagging in Louise's guide. Start just right of Stirling Moss. It's the bolted line, not clear how many bolts it actually has.

The arete. Start at the second last (and highest) pinnacle near the top of Organ Pipes Gully.

Good mini-route.

Start: Start on the L arete of the 3rd blocky pinnacle.

Start at the base of the "second hole" near the top of the 'Organ Pipes Gully'. Climb the front of the scrappy grey buttress.

Start on the L to gain the diagonal.

Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.

A good effort for the era. Start just above the "first hole" as you walk up 'Organ Pipes Gully'. The initialled black, flared offwidth/chimney - you'll be needing big cams.

The face.

Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.

The physical hand crack, taking care with the blocks at the start. Start 2m R of Cerberus.

The flakes.

Start: Start directly opposite CRaCM.

Looks like 36! Originally led on preplaced gear, repeated placing the gear by Gareth Llewellin - a pretty bold lead. Start a short way uphill from the back of the D Minor pinnacle, and just downhill from the boulder choke. Glassy bulging seam. Rack: Mostly #1 RPs.

Reachy.

Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff.

One concerned father hired a private detective when his daughter started seeing Chris! Not that well protected. Start R around the arête from C, 3m L of Stentor's 3rd pitch.

Short, soft and bolted - needless to say this one is popular. Start on the uphill side of the Iron Void pinnacle.