Showing all 25 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
20 | Disguise the Limit
Reachy over the L side of the roof past a piton, then easily up a groove to a rap station. Start: Start in a cave up near the top of the gully. FA: Mike Law & Steve Howden, 1982 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Redd Tracy
From the R side of the cave follow jugs out to the lip then a hard move to a break and straight up to rap anchor. There is good gear where you need it if you can stop to place it. Note: The Rap Anchor in basically no existent and needs a new one! Start: Start just R of DtL. FA: Rod Young (traversed off R after the crux)(Mike Law added the direct finish to the rap station onwith Steve Howden), 1982 | 20m | |||
23 R | Malfunction Man
Committing roof then up to a ledge shared with 'Orpheus'. Now traverse R to a rap anchor (which may or may not exist or be useable). Start: Start R of RT. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 30m | |||
18 | A Group of Thrutching (Thracian) Women
Individual pitch grades were not supplied - overall grade is 18 but some pitches may be easier. Start: Start: As for 'Orpheus'.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, Debra Sweet (1st pitch), Deb Sweet, Jon Bassindale (2nd & 3rd pitches)., 1999 | 50m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ The Desired
Later became Tony's Route (the present direct line), though 90% of it had been climbed in the 1960's as 'The Desired'. Start: Start below the pitch 1 corner of 'Orpheus'.
FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter in climbing Orpheus solved the initial crux. Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger established The Desired by climbing in from Orpheus, June 1967. The direct line as it now is, Tony Dignan, Guy Cotter & Mike Law, 1981 | 60m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Orpheus
Start: Start 15m up the gully, at an orange ledge.
FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 1965 | 110m, 4 | |||
19 | Eurydice LHF
Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the left one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top. Start: Start on the Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2. | 30m | |||
18 | ★★★ Eurydice
1
18
33m
2
17
32m
A fine old classic that has just about everything in its two pitches. A great line with a fiery first pitch in an excellent position. On the E face of the Bard Buttress there's a guano-stained recess about 25m off the ground, with a crack leading down R to the ground. Start under this crack.
Ann Pauligk's mid 1970s ascent, first go, was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. FA: Bob Bull, Peter Jackson & Ted Batty, 1965 NA: Ann Pauligk, 1975 | 65m, 2, 2 | |||
19 | Eurydice RHF
Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the right one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top. Start: Start on Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2. | 35m | |||
23 | Bbruce
Up E until you have a roof on your right. Traverse R here, then up over bulge past BR and straight up to the nice ledge atop 'Eurydice' p1. Start: Start as for E. FA: Mike Law & Greg Garnham, 1981 | 35m, 1 | |||
20 | OPM
The steep sickle crack is a great alternative start for 'Poppies'. Finish up it. Start: Start 2m R of E. FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Greg Garnham, 1981 | 15m | |||
23 | Noseburger Direct
Overall grade is 23, but it's not clear how hard each pitch is. Start: Start 2m L of P.
FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith & Geoff Robertson, 1981 | 80m, 3 | |||
21 | Poppies Original Start
Described separately so that 'Poppies' gets more notice as a great 19. Start a few metres L of The Bard and climb direct up the slick blank slab to join 'Poppies'. | 30m | |||
19 | ★ Poppies
Start as for The Bard, or by traversing easily R from near the base of Eurydice.
FA: Mike Law & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 70m, 2 | |||
23 | Poppies pitch 3
Described separately so that 'Poppies' pitches 1 and 2 get noticed as a great 19. This pitch is all over after the start so it's not worth doing ... unless it's your best option to impress a hottie bumbly hanging around on Bard Terrace. Start: Start on the Bard Terrace, a few metres L of the final pitch of Bard. FA: Mike Law or Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 30m | |||
18 | Lubricant
The middle of the face, kinking R at one point. Start: Start on the back of the boulder at the base of the 'Bard Buttress'. FA: Stephen Hamilton & Nick Tapp, 1990 | 10m | |||
17 R | ★★ Checkmate
Borderline whether it deserves the "serious" tag, but the crux is quite tricky, with spaced pro. Then again, you've got plenty of clean air up there, and it's still a great route. Start: Start as for The Bard.
FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1967 | 85m, 4 | |||
12 | ★★★ Bard
1
12
43m
2
12
12m
3
12
20m
4
12
15m
5
12
30m
Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.
FA: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking, 1965 | 120m, 5 | |||
20 | The Comedy of Errors
Start: Start as for The Bard.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Bill Andrews & Richard Morris, 1985 | 73m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Wall Street
| 25m | |||
22 | Turning Point
| 10m | |||
22 | ★ Heavy Dudes
| 35m | |||
18 | Shepherds in Love
Take a line just L of 'Eurydice' p2, with a steep flake down low then a loose wall above. Start: Start at the first belay of 'Eurydice'. FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Dennis Kemp, 1981 | 32m | |||
18 | The Desired Variant Start
Move up then follow the underclings R across 'Orpheus' to join the upper part of p1 of TD. Start: Start up L from the start of 'Orpheus'. FA: Robin Miller & Louise Shepherd, 1982 | 25m | |||
22 | Wall Turning Dudes
Each pitch was established independently, and you can repeat them that way if you wish. Linking them into one route is the way to go, however. Start: Start R of The Bard.
FA: p1 Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1980 FA: p2 Mark Moorhead, Tony Dignan & Geoff Little, 1980 FA: p3 Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Greg Garnham, 1981 | 75m, 3 |
Showing all 25 routes.