Ascents in Lower Gully having Beta

Three sessions working this beautiful technical crack line with a heart breaker finish. Got it for shot of the day!

Thought this was the stiff 17… oopsie

This route definitely runout when onsighting but if u work it can make it safe

A lap to get the gear onto white heat

Got to the crux on the first burn, and figured out the top crux to dog out to the top. Second run was better. Great climbing with Henning.

One fell on all four attempts. Have to watch the left foot exiting the crux.

Had a bit of gear and move beta from Meredith Apple which made the rack a little less heavy.

What a route, so much climbing, so many crack techniques required. 10/10. If you like cracks, do this route. The gear is better than bolts.

Had some premium 0.75 beta which made the headwall less bum-tightening.

What a standout route. All the stars.

A burly layback flake guarded by some minger face climbing at the start.

Went ground up without stick clipping. A #2 goes real nice in the slot before the bolt.

Another not bad warmup.

Fairly good little warmup. Cool oozy moves up high.

Fantastic pumpy jamming.

A second lap to feel it on top rope; different experience for sure.

First onsight at the grade since injury. Happy with it, but sketchy moving onto the flakes at the top over ledge.

A great way to warm up!

Fun way to end a lovely morning session.

Burly climbing I knew I couldn’t free the moves on TR but went for a RP go to practice falling on gear

One of the best with lots of jams. Glad I sussed the gear on TR before red point burn

Continuing a trend of ticking 22 on the third attempt. Pretty stoked even if it’s top rope!

A lap for good measure.

Great route. Easiest of the 22 here.

One fall. Should go clean next run.

Gear retrieval for will but felt so much harder than in lemon butter

Better than expected.

A heady redpoint to round off the 22 streak. A super satisfying send. The climbing is easy enough but deserves the grade for the commitment required.

Got milked

Such a great piece of rock, classy and technical jamming from the moment you step off the ground until the moment you touch the jugs at the top. First go dogged with gear. Second and third top roped. Fourth go lead with gear. MILK BLOOD RULES!!!

No downclimbing

This route has the best slcd placement I’ve ever seen

According to Lauren Hunter a redpoint is invalidated by dave macleod style downclimb-2-rest. But not invalidated by yo-yoing after a whipper :P:P:P

Weird and a bit heady, but I really liked it. Wish I'd saved a 0.3 for the pocket up top.

Two good bits on the climb, but otherwise very forgettable. Easiest of the three.

Very nice climbing on flat holds. I thought this was the hardest and most sustained of the three newer routes here. Apparently it feels more like 18 if you wander right in the difficult sections?

Full headpoint, complete with mock leading and full memorisation of gear

Ended up only placing 4 crucial pieces of pro

Terrified of ledge fall potential on this

Lemon butter up next. Hopefully don’t rip 3 pieces and take a 15m screamer like Jack Seawright

cant remember exactly when i did this. Delicious finger locks, a tricky transfer and sequency jamming at the end: you cant pack much more adventure into ten meters of rock climbing than this!

Easier, better and more solid pro than than in lemon butter. Three stars for sure

Good climbing but “a bit bold” is an understatement. Took some whips, ripped some bits but all round had a good time

X3 pretty easy for the grade imo

Sent what I thought was the crux with confidence move before getting stuck in a box pumping out. Huge fight hugging a big block feature but still found a way, albeit not the easiest way it seems.

Probably the best I’ve climbed. Saw the moves and executed them without hesitation. Took good rests. Felt amazing.

Lovely top half with long reachy moves between crimps.

Fell on the onsight, immediately lowered and sent it next go. Sustainaed and exciting climbing, loved it!

Not run out if you bring #3 rp, but there's also medium nuts before and after the crux. Nice climb.

First attempt was a good aid ascent. Second go on the toppy to sort it out and then second lead attempt went down. Love these short hard things.

Nearly got the trash. Got the fist jam sequence all wrong at the top. Definitely going to come back for this one