Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Ramadan - with Bonnie MacAdam | 80m | |||||
Had a lead attempt. Fell off and lowered at the top of the finger crack. Bonnie then volunteered to lead to the top and spent the next hour or two slowly working her way up and down the pitch. I seconded clean all the way until the offwidth where I fell less than a meter from the anchor. Taking the tick since I could high five Bonnie before falling. Only pitch one.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Rajah P1
- with
Alex Battaglia
1
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just the first 40m but split in 2 pitches.
I lead up gorgeous splitter up the first 15m. Lovely jams! Al led the second pitch with some tricky wide sections that again had me lamenting large-handed men. Near the top, I left the crack for a bit somewhat accidentally and did some sidepull face shenanigans before rejoining. Heaps of fun!
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Thu 28th Mar 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Ramadan P1
- with
Alex Battaglia
1
| 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A beast of a route! So stellar, so hard, so intimidating. Al started up, fell and lowered from the fingers bit, and if he falls that often bodes poorly for me. We thought about bailing but I couldn’t resist the call of such a searing and commanding line. My turn to lead, found the fingers section diabolical! Could not work out the technique, so I dogged up a move at a time… It was looking grim but then the glory hands started. A beautiful rhythm going onwards and upwards to the sky. To keep it engaging the crack kept changing size, from hands to fists to fingers to thin hands to wider than fists. Bumping gear is not my specialty, so there were many takes and some lowers to retrieve pieces. Hours later, the marathon was coming to an end. I stupidly decided to do the alternative finish out R, and did a hard and scary offwidth with a huge runout. Never have I peaked more in my life. God was kind though, and I didnt whip. What a special privilege to have experienced this route! I’ll be back for you.
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Wed 27th Mar 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Alex Battaglia | 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun intro to the Ben. Incredible place, stunning big walls. P1 was a nice lil bit of jamming. P2 corner crack was awful wide fists for me, with my lady hands, and was a bit desperate, with a very inelegant mantle. Super classy side pulls off the flake, with a scary lose runout at the top. P3 was choss!! Weetbix! Topping out on the plateau in the golden hour was perfect!
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Nate | 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My crack climbing skills leave much to be desired 🥲 but this was fun!
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Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta
- with
Connor
1
2
| 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2 very nice & chill pitches. P3 looked gross. Rapped (1 with a 80m).
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Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Rigaudon
- with
Lee Prescott
1
2
3
| 70m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Classic climbing!!! Really nice pitch, not sure on the spike at the top, it moved on me but goddamn I feel like it's locked in, not sure, death block lol. Offwodth at start gross. Last pitch actually deece, not 17
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18 |
★★★ Rajah P1
1
| 80m | |||||
Gassed
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17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Sonia Komonen | 90m | |||||
Didn’t the right gear
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Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Rajah | 80m | |||||
Fist jam is hard… Scrambling is equally hard…😅 是我不行
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Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Rajah - with Kat Liss | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Jugs n rests
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20 |
★★★ Rigaudon
- with
Kat Liss
2
3
| 70m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Skipped the first pitch because I’m a chicken. Sustained and chossy near the top which keeps it exciting. Didn’t know about the death block and yarded on it and pulled it out from the wall and the entire thing rocked out towards me. Would discourage touching this. Another project trundle.
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Wed 7th Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 Hard | ★★★ Ramadan - with YannChristopher | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
for sure one of the best trad climbs ive done, mega jaming in all sizes , long and technical can defintly understand why it holds such a rep.
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 ~21 | ★★★ Ramadan - with Lee Prescott | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Old school 19 for sure lol!! What a fucking stellar route though, all the tricks in the bag required, sadly fell at the purple cam size as I was trying to lock a layback lol. Lots of swearing on this route after looking up and back down and realising it truly is a marathon testpiece. Mega classic mulcher
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18 | ★★★ Rajah - with Lee Prescott | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
An absolute mega classic jug haul!
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Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 ~20 | ★★★ Ramadan - with Rene Provis | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fell at the last 4 metres. Epic battle and challenging route requiring all tricks in the bag.
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Hannah Rose, Edie Burns | 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Edie's first day at the ben and first multipitch. Climbed on only hexes.
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Fri 26th Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Master Blaster P1
- with
Buster the Booly Bushman
1
| 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7 degrees and 70km winds stopped my Queensland acclimatised fingers from giving this a lead burn. Decided to aid it because we walked the whole way. Looks nails for 24 but that’s Ben lemon I guess.
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Thu 25th Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Rajah P1
- with
Buster the Booly Bushman
1
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Split the pitch into two as we had a party of tree and one rope
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Tue 16th Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 ~20 |
★★★ Ramadan P1
- with
Sean Peters
1
| 80m | |||||
Sean was meant to lead P1 and drag me up it, but he bailed off a .4 after 7m or so. I top-dogged piece to piece to his high point and then led another 7m to where the crack constricts and set up a hanging belay with a #.5, #.75 and #2. This whole first section felt nails, especially since the triple rack of cams makes bridging awkward (I tried to mitigate this by racking everything on one side). On Sean's second go he made better progress facing right and bridging, with some laybacking where fingers were too loose.
Second half of the pitch went better for me; sat just once to dislodge a stuck #1 down low. Used various techniques from left knee bars to all limbs swimming up the crack to stems to bridging. The finger locks on this half set way better and there were some nice pods that set both downward and upward. The fist jams felt secure too, although the crack was wet near some of them. The few little ledges on the left face set up some rests, though it was mostly a case of exchanging hand pump for calf pump. My quads were completely cooked from bridging by the top. As others have observed, this route is substantially harder than other grade 19 cracks like 'Infinity' and even the directly comparable 'Devils Dihedral' (20). |
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Mon 15th Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Aquilla | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got spanked! The tricky gear, had me pretty scared.
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Fri 12th Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Rajah
- with
Sean Peters
1
lead by
Dean
Clean to first ledge (4x #2, 1x #1), finding the #1 thin hands section the crux. Belayed (with #3 + overcammed #4) Sean up to reclaim the gear. And dempump my thumbs. Wasn't breathing too well on the next pitch so relinquished the onsight and took some rests. Started by bumping our remaining #3 up until plugging in the #4 and followed by medium cams. Stepped right into the V then back left at the rooflet. Anchor with #.75 and #2 between another party's gear, though another #3 would have been good.
2
lead by
Sean Peters
Charged up to the roof section then pulled it with a high right foot. Sean ran out of gear toward the end. The guidebook's claim that the rock quality at the top is "relatively good" is rubbish: the right side was aptly termed "weet-bix" by the locals and a many holds on the left flexed too. | 80m | |||||
In general, a pretty taxing climb that (along with the long approach and exit) left me sore. The hands jams were quite taxing since they were often deep, baggy and (especially with both feet in the crack) required pulling on to stay close to the rock.
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Mon 8th Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dangerman | 75m | |||||
absolute classic! onsight attempt ended after 10 meters when I got outrageously pumped trying to place too much gear from strenuous layback position. was too much even for my big abs haha. did a few top ropes after that finding better gear placement stances and some good stemming rests. had to fight for quite a bit on the next lead attempt and it went. thanks to Jimmy for lending me a few small cams
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19 | ★★★ Ramadan | 80m | |||||
first climb at the Ben this trip and glad I still remember how to climb this thing - didn't even get pumped this time haha
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dangerman - with Dmitry Linkov | 75m | |||||
Sustained laybacking and tricky stemming. At the top can switch to chimney-ish technique(like ramadan) and then easy jamming. maybe can lead it one day
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19 | ★★★ Ramadan | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Perhaps my proudest onsight. Went to the limit, nearly coming out of the wet crack at the very top. Closely followed by renz also sending to the soundtrack of abc classic fm. A memorable day at the crag surrounded by an amazing crew
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18 | ★★★ Rajah | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
1st pitch only with Ella and Renz
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Sat 30th Dec 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 ~20 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Ben Griggs | 90m | |||||
Great climb.
Stupid grade (at 17 though). Interestingly the AI grade suggested by TheCrag concurs with my opinion that this is a 20 in the Ewbank system. It felt at least as hard as 5.10b's cracks that I have done in North America. |
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta | 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite a cool route would be nice if there was a fixed abseil line instead of old tat everywhere on the mountain
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Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Climbers Variant - with Sami | 100m | |||||
Only 3m or gr23 climbing but the gr20 & 22 pitches are good.
Lead the hard pitch but had two hangs, top roped the pitch clean.
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Mon 13th Mar 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Ramadan - with Hayden L, Fraser | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
another day another hang on ramadan
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22 | ★★★ Die Nadal - with Hayden L, Fraser | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
only marginally harder than rajah for me with my #1 size hands. not that this was easy, just that rajah is hard thanks FLR for the top rope to try this classic
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22 | ★★★ Die Nadal - with mac and hayden | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My most relaxed route on the Ben, I had such a good time, nice and steep with a good amount of cheater holds.
Had some funny rope shenanigans at the start and end of the climb. |
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Master Blaster P1
- with
Patrick Munnings
1
| 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Pink point flash on Pat's gear. I might have gotten the flash placing gear but on Pat's gear I definitely had more fun!
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21 |
★★★ Dangerman P1
- with
Patrick Munnings
1
| 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So good, required just the right amount of fight.
Pitch one only.
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Fri 10th Mar 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
24 |
★★★ Master Blaster P1
- with
Fraser
1
| 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Ascents don't come much better than this. Really gave it some beans and scraped through to the half way rest where it backs off significantly to a beautiful splitter hand crack to the top. So fun!!
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21 |
★★★ Dangerman P1
- with
Fraser
1
| 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Weird movement one third jamming, another third laybacking and the rest stemming all on one movement the whole way up. A full body pitch. So good!
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Wed 1st Mar 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Mark Thake | 90m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I've got the crack bug baby
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18 | ★★★ Rajah - with Mark Thake | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My introduction to crack climbing I had to sit once on each pitch but had an amazing time.
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Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 Hard |
★★★ Rajah P1
1
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a fun route! Nice and varied
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Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta
- with
claire
1
2
3
| 90m | |||||
Linked pitch 1 & 2. Pitch 2 eats a lot of nuts.
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 Hard | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Amps | 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
1st pitch only. Awkward jams.
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18 | ★★★ Rajah - with Amps | 80m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Burlier than expected.
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19 Hard | ★★★ Ramadan - with Amps | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
No harder than 19. Sustained.
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20 | ★★★ Rigaudon - with Amps | 70m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Second mega pitch only. Rapped in from Rajah to start of second to avoid the offwidth. Very sustained but nothing too hard. Almost pulled the death spike out of the crack at 2/3rds height. Be very, very careful with this. Took a huge rack. Quad 0.75 - 3 and used everything.
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Sat 18th Feb 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta
- with
Madi R
1
2
3
| 90m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great value climbing to the top, worth doing all three pitches.
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24 |
★★★ Master Blaster P1
- with
Madi R
1
| 100m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tronsite! Seems like the crux is the gear
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23 | ★★ Rajah Eliminate - with Zac Lazatin | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A great little test piece. Would be a classic at any other crag.
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
24 | ★★★ King of Heaven (Social Lepers) - with Zac Lazatin | 85m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolutely amazing route - a real unrelenting journey; a bit chossy at the top - the full Ben Lomond experience.
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24 | ★★★ Master Blaster - with Zac Lazatin | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing. Stoked to get the onsight having left this alone for years as I didn't feel ready.
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Wed 15th Feb 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Ramadan P1
- with
kate
1
| 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
3rd go. shaved another 30 min off from my last lead for now only 1h. got a new highpoint too, got to the twos section when i had a foot slip. super stoked on the progress. didnt have enough gear for the end which made it scary but quick
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Ramadan | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crack warfare
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Rigaudon - with Nick Whitelaw | 70m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Top roped/dogged chimney after coming down Ramadan. Seconded Nick's mega pitch to the summit from the ledge. Fairly straightforward good climbing but a band of choss near the top severely detracts from the overall experience.
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Sat 28th Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Stuck Cam Crack - with anne | 15m | |||||
Cleaning up the gear and downloading, trickier than expected for such a such short climb
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21 | ★★★ Aquilla | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Aquilla and dangerman plus a cheeky tr over master blaster which is impossible to free i think. Had to ascend the tr on 2 prussiks to retrieve a cam which sucked abit but thankfully no lunches dropped off belay ledges today. Dangerman is still the sickest pitch at robins and potentially anywhere. Back to camp early for the ceremonial cooking of pedro and yulis mammoth zucchini.
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Fri 27th Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Defender of the Faith | 70m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Started the day by soloing darrens layback as an offwidth. Belayed claire on rigaudon. An impressive debut lead at the ben and not most peoples first. Mega lost on the walkdown, laybacked the offwidth to get back to the anchor on preset toprope left from rigaudon and fell off! Danger darren has earned his name this time. Got claire to belay defender from the ground which was a mistake. Rope drag central, faffed a move at half height while shawn was taking my photo from tr solo and grabbed a cam, otherwise gingerly clean to the top. Climbed like someones grandma but a cracker pitch. Very social vibe back at carr villa. Turns out this might actually be the climbers campground?
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Thu 26th Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Die Nadal | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Day 1 of ben long weekend with claire and guy. Everyone had a good climb on this bad boy. We were entertained at the start by darren rolling up like a tornado in purple flared pants and soloing the gr 18 offwidth first pitch of defender as a committed (very) layback. Rope around shoulder, climbing partner still putting his bags down. He even had a footslip. Id not like to be the one carrying him back to car villa. Returned to ramadan to confirm its still hard and we can confirm it. Not as fucked as it felt last year with better techas but still abit red hot for 19. Great to be back in splitter heaven
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Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Ramadan | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Master Blaster — 3 attempts | 100m | |||||
Two shots falling quite high up. one just before the hand jams exhausting. Stunning
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19 ~18 | ★★★ Ramadan | 80m | |||||
Relentless jugs. Can't believe i ever fell on this
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Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Rajah P1
- with
Jedda Elliott
1
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
p1 only. First route at the Ben and rad intro. keen to try the second pitches for some spice next time
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22 | ★★★ Defender of the Faith | 70m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun line and i basically face climbed it, but on lead those dinner plates might be less inviting
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22 | ★★★ Die Nadal | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Killer line, much more varied than the guide suggests, but no less awesome
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Mon 9th Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Ramadan | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Killer lead from gem, very insecure but engaging all the way
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17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta | 90m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The first two two pitches were mega, maybe got lost on the last because it was a disgusting choss fest.
Only real lead at the ben
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18 | ★★★ Rajah | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hands then fists for days! Just threw a rope down it
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Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
23 | ★★ Rajah Eliminate - with Fraser | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
a nice crack very consistent in the cursed # 0.5 range
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19 | ★★★ Ramadan - with Fraser | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
second go at leading after a 2 year hiatus. bit faster this time but still much room for improvement and many sits. happy for a triple rack of hand sized pieces (and 4x #1s lol) but could live with one #4 and less of the small cams. also like 4-6 draws is enough. gotta train up for round 3
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23 | ★★ Rajah Eliminate - with Mac Labine-Romain | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good climbing, would be a classic at anyother crag. So flowy and beautiful
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Rigaudon
- with
darren
1
2
3
| 70m | |||||
heaps fun, especially with a comfy top rope. keen to come back and lead the second pitch. was impressed that time from house to base of climb was <2h.
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Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Rajah | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Rad adventure day. With Nick
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Ramadan | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Contender for the worlds hardest 19.
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Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta | 90m | ★ Good | ||||
Honestly, didn’t enjoy too much. Too many ledges for my liking.
Placed nothing smaller than a purple (except nuts) - double 1 &2 will get you through - take more to link first pitches. |
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24 Hard | ★★★ Master Blaster — 2 attempts | 100m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tough! Basically pulled through the crux on onsight, but had the gear on the wrong side and got scared.
Got the toprope tick, but a redpoint would be much harder |
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Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Aquilla - with jon | 80m | |||||
Good, but the single pitch OS attempt was too much. Also who the hell makes north facing crags. Honestly that's evidence enough against God.
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Sat 3rd Dec 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
20 ~19 | ★★★ Rigaudon - with Jon | 70m | |||||
With side runners. Because the 5 isn't big enough. Take a 6, or more likely bigger.
I got p1 and 3. Good fun. But p2 is hilariously soft at the grade
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Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Master Blaster - with Pete Bovino | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The tips layback is indeed firey. If you get through the crux you're rewarded with 20m of glorious perfect hands.
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21 | ★★★ Dangerman - with Pete Bovino | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolutely mega. Full body pump with crazy karate kicks out to the left face for intense stemming rests. The most incredible glory handjams at the top almost made me cry. Just pitch one
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Mon 7th Feb 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta
1
17
90m
2
3
| 90m | |||||
The first 2 pitches and about 10m of pitch 3 are great, but the rest is a mess. Overall a good time.
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Fri 4th Feb 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Rajah (Rajah P1)
1
18
45m
| 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sweet dreams are made of jams
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Tue 25th Jan 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Rajah | 80m | |||||
First crack route
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18 | ★★★ Rajah - with India Hayes, Sam Beaver | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Goddam that's a great climb
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Mon 24th Jan 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Aquilla - with Martin Brown | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Stunning! Probably my favourite climb of the trip. Annoyed that I messed up a nut placement on the first pitch and sat. Way better climbing than it looks. Second pitch was just glorious. What kind of voodoo keeps that block at the top of the second sitting on that ledge! Terrifying.
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22 | ★★★ Die Nadal - with Martin Brown | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mega line! Inspiration for the future.
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Sun 23rd Jan 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Defender of the Faith
- with
Martin Brown
2
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rapped into the second pitch from Ramadan. Really ramps up the higher you go.
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19 |
★★★ Ramadan
- with
Martin Brown
2
| 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
My main goal for the trip. One of those lines that has inspired me for nearly 10 years and had very gradually moved from "no way I'll ever climb that" to "I'll be glad to get to the top on lead" to finally, "maybe I can actually do this". Plug and go was the mantra, which is typically not my strong suit. In the end I think I did my best version of this and it paid off. Miraculously didn't fall off the pumpy start. Milked the mid rest for all it was worth. Cursed the heavy ropes, tenuous bridging and fused crack at the top, then flopped onto the pillar. Very satisfying!
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Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Rajah
- with
Martin Brown
2
| 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Split the first into two pitches to share the lead. The most ridiculous hand crack on the first. Then a surprising amount of face-ish bridging on the second.
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21 | ★★★ Dangerman - with Jack Seawright | 75m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
uff! need to improve my fingerlocks for that one. No body tension after all the climbing doesn't help neither
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17 | ★★ Stuck Cam Crack - with Jack Seawright | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
the good old offwidth grunt was in the shade so worth a go
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21 | ★★★ Aquilla - with Jack Seawright | 80m | |||||
bottom pitch was wet and muddy, aided a few meters up and down again
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19 | ★★★ Ramadan - with Jack Seawright | 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
rest just where you desperately need them
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21 | ★★★ Dangerman - with jeroen | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Potentially the best pitch ive done.. mega karate kicks out to the closed corner on the left on finger locks that could hold a bus full of school kids. Fuggennarrthhh. Sick!
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19 | ★★★ Ramadan - with jeroen | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Desperate first 6m to the point of lobbing seriously undersize cams at the crack and just ripping them down till they were wires. Beautiful the whole way.
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Fri 21st Jan 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Die Nadal - with Cédric | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Was always a goal, so glad I got on it, but found the initial finger section slightly too hard and didn't have much motivation to push through once I lost the onsight. Mostly a pain threshold problem with raw fingertips, thumb pads and some bit of my forearm I seem to smear on walls... it's a rough rock here!
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22 | ★★★ Die Nadal - with Cédric | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
On the plus side, the 'thin hands' bit is indeed pretty good for me, and tape gloves were a good idea
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Thu 20th Jan 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Ramadan
- with
Cédric
1
19
40m
2
40m
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Didn't work out the backstepping method I see some speaking of, struggled as always with 0.5 size and got a bad case of screaming thumb muscles further up. Took a triple rack and was still reduced to placing dinky little nuts in the left crack by the end. it's a mission alright. We were so exhausted we had a lil nap on the shelves at the top before walking down
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21 |
★★★ Dangerman P1
- with
Cédric
1
21
30m
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just P1. My idea of a clean second went out the window with the first nut removal, but apart from the nuts it's not too bad at my height as a high-speed laybacking job.
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Wed 19th Jan 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Cédric | 90m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Led P1 & 3. Good first climb here because 10m off the ground you're like holy hell, this is what the guidebook calls not a jamming marathon? Better get ready for the ones without ledges! The end of P3 is like climbing a stegosaurus who is still alive and wiggling his fins, take care...
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18 |
★★★ Rajah (Rajah P1)
- with
Cédric
1
18
40m
| 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Also day 1. Lot of fists here for me, thank you Nomad for those practice laps
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Ben Lomond | |||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Martin Brown | 45m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First two pitches. Nice to clean this up 9 or so years after my first visit to this place. Found the first pitch harder than the first on Rajah.
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