Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Newnes Plateau Solar | ||||||||
22 | Endless Summer | 40m | Mon 23rd Nov 2020 | |||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Greater Carne Creek Everyman and his Dog Area | ||||||||
24 | ★★ Everyman and his Dog - with Eugene Mak | 60m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Jan 2021 | ||||
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24 | FA ★★ Everyman and his Dog | 60m | Sat 18th Sep 2021 | |||||
FFA.
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24 | ★★ Everyman and his Dog - with Match | 60m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Aug 2022 | ||||
Was pretty chuffed to punch this out as a warmup, with the route unchalked.
The money pitch is short, and the rock is variable (though mostly quite good) but it's very sustained and insecure, and an excellent technical crack-climbing test-piece. In a few moments of desperation, I began using face-holds that would be called bad footers any other day of the week... I'm sure there's better beta |
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25 | FA ★★★ Raid - with Match | 55m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Aug 2022 | ||||
FFA. Mega mega mega!
Originally attempted ground-up (after climbing Everyman and his Dog) resulting in a few big falls, and much fear, I later sent this third shot on pre-placed gear, and 4th shot placing all gear on lead. On the FFA, I linked P1 into P2. This is the sort of modern-style trad climbing that I've really come to enjoy, where the incipient crack takes gear, but much of the climbing is done gymnastically on face holds, resulting in some exciting exposure as you move away from the gear. The upper crux is very sporty. Proper stoked with this find. |
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25 |
★★★ Raid (Raid P1)
- with
frothy, Match, Paul Frothy Thomson
1
25
20
| 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Aug 2022 | ||||
The usual TR dogfest*2 between Matches RP/PP burns. Lovely climbing between boulder problems, medium sized but mostly sane gear. Despite making progress couldnt pull the facey upper boulder.
Impressive find and an awesome first trip to Newnes, a SPIRITED line.... |
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25 | FA ★★★ Raid - with davedave, Paul Frothy Thomson | 55m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 31st Aug 2022 | ||||
Just your normal Newnes smash and grab. with rock raining down on the FA
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25 | ★★★ Raid - with davedave, Paul Frothy Thomson | 55m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 31st Aug 2022 | ||||
Second day out here managed to break a cam on flaring placement also got the belay tick for the FFA.
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25 | ★★★ Raid - with davedave, Paul Frothy Thomson | 55m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 31st Aug 2022 | ||||
Waited 4 months for the road to be graded.
Had a ambitious red point attempt which lead to a respectable whip at the first crux then. Second lap went for the pink point and got it done! Nearly lost it on the outro of the top crux. This line is proper. |
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Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Greater Carne Creek | ||||||||
18 20 | ★ Crack 2 (Double Standard and Vested Interests) - with Macciza a.k.a. Macca | 50m | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jan 2019 | ||||
Rapped down line from tree at top on a 60m lead line. Rope-soloed out in dodgy approach shoes with a rest (to dry retch, due to heat and cordial), didn't seem to bad, just a bit physical but you get that on chimneys...
Single rack to #2 at most prob, plus wires should be fine, maybe double small cams if worried ... probably best as single pitch, with some long runners... 'Cleaned' a few loose bits accidentally, will be back for the tick... and a few others that I bouldered the starts of .... |
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Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Disbelief Cave | ||||||||
21 | FA ★★★ The Gob-smacking Brute ?? - with zachary vertrees | 55m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Mar 2019 | ||||
First ascent ... An awesome line that seems to dare/demand that you to give it a try despite your 'better judgement' ....
Regardless of the chance of failure and obvious ensuing difficulties we gave it a shot, though the unknowns of getting a decent belay and getting through the roof held the keys to success... fortunately we were pleasantly surprised.... An awesome, engaging, full value climb ... |
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19 | ★★★ A Right Chimney - with zachary vertrees, J Corkins | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
Onsight First ascent(?) by Zac and cleanly seconded by Jamie and myself. Almost came off in offwidthy thrutch section just before cave but kept it together. Strange how sometimes one can seemingly completely forget , or at least not remember, or perhaps ignore, sequences you've just watched others do...
Good fun old fashioned climbing, done in fine style by all... |
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19 | ★★★ A Right Chimney - with Jim Trihey | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Mar 2021 | ||||
had a go on lead and got so confused i had to give it to jim! realy fun climb once i figure it out. need to upskill on the oldschool clinmbing
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19 | ★★★ A Right Chimney - with Matthew Robbins | 40m | Mon 25th Dec 2023 | |||||
Downclimbed to ground from the wide section as I couldn’t find any good gear and got spooked
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22 | ★★★ Center line - with zachary vertrees | 40m | Sun 24th Mar 2019 | |||||
Seconding Zac on FA. 1 cleaning issue at crux and lovely wetness for the easy top out... great fun ...
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22 | ★★★ Center line | 40m | Wed 27th Nov 2019 | |||||
21 | ★★ The Left Crack - with zachary vertrees, jaimie | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Mar 2019 | ||||
Was meant to be warm up for one of the other routes here ... but wasn't really warmed up for this anyway ... was more interested in time than the onsight so unfortunately no gold star ...oh welll maybe a silver next time ...
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21 | ★★ The Left Crack - with Ben Carter | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Apr 2019 | ||||
Wow, great climb. Few delightful long moves on (what I perceived as) good hand jams on quite steep territory. It really doesn't look that steep from the ground. Rock is pretty clean and gear is solid as, not advisable for sensitive skin... but I think the prickles inside the crack will eventually clean up nicely with traffic. Ben thought the grade was stiff, I thought it was honest but mmm if I compare to The Kracken, ok it might be a bit harder.
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28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) - with Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Mar 2019 | ||||
Absolutely wild. Climbed about a third of it in an epic dog session and did most of those moves. From where we got to, the rest of the crack needs a pretty good clean to de-crozzle and remove a chunk of choss but after that it will be good to go. Possibly the hardest route I've ever tried. Go get on it people!!
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28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) | 15m | Thu 30th May 2019 | |||||
Fourth day on. Sorted out the last moves of the first tier just before the Spinning Blades Traverse, using a pocket jug on the right then easy move left on the first blade. Much easier than the Vidlers crimp fest. There's still a move in the first tier I cannot repeat Did most of the moves of the tier 2 which is chugging along the blades then go back to the ceiling crack in the coolest sequence of the climb so far. Now I stopped at the last blade available for footwork where I believe the crux of the climb is to turn around with last available bad finger jam in the crack and face the truth, I can't see any holds for about a body length before the Ironstone Traverse starts. To be continued...
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28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) - with Mattia | 15m | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | |||||
Good progress today, found a new crimp towards the end of First Tier, linked from the last move of the lower crux to the middle of the Spinning Blades, did lots of subtle cleaning and blunting the blades to keep the rope reasonably safe. Checked out the transition move to the Iron Stone Traverse and found few spots where my fingers fit but this will be ridiculously hard, there's hope at least.
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28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) | 15m | Fri 14th Jun 2019 | |||||
6th day on. Started trying to pink point lower crux up to end of Spinning Blades. Sequence at lower crux is getting there, need to tape first knuckle of left index finger and both pinkies. Worked a bit on the climbs crux to gain Ironstone Traverse, it's real hard. I managed to stem from last good jam reaching just the bad part of Ironstone, seems like I'll need to reset in the two next bad jams to gain control on the transition. Explored the Ironstone Traverse to the alcove which is awesome fun climbing, felt totally unmotivated to go further after pulling on bad rock in the alcove and thought the climb should stop here.
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28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 16th Dec 2021 | ||||
28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 16th Dec 2021 | ||||
28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 16th Dec 2021 | ||||
28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | ||||
28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Dec 2021 | ||||
28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 27th Dec 2021 | ||||
Did about 15 shots this year 2021. Last shot was on pre-placed gear and climbed through all finger lock section and took my first real fall with the second hueco latched but unable to progress to third. Only three moves away from jug! Climbing it placing gear up to aid move is now a short term objective.
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28 | ★★★ The Great Divide (The Great Divide Project) - with Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Dec 2021 | ||||
2 x laps. The First was a long ordeal, trying to properly suss viable moves/sequences/gear/clipping. The second was to confirm what I learned from the previous lap. Thought I had it all figured out (though it would need a lot of effort still to send!) but on my 2nd lap there was a single move I couldn't repeat. Tired? Or just too hard? Who knows.
IT was rad tackling this knowing I'd need new beta -being the first of my physiology to undertake the challenge. My beta encompassed mono-fingerlocks, and 2-finger stacks through dead-horizontal roof. Painful as hell, but megar megar. Thanks heaps for letting me have a play, Jacques! |
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28 Hard | FA ★★★ The Great Divide - with Ben Carter | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th Jan 2023 | ||||
First Free Ascent. Few years in the making, still have to come back to redpoint
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28 | ★★★ The Great Divide — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th Oct 2023 | ||||
Wow, what an incredible line. Very gnarly but possible with the right sequence.
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28 | FA ★★★ Beyond Belief - with Gwen and James | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 26th Mar 2019 | ||||
FFA. Exceptional climb, hard to put a grade on this but it really doesn't matter, def felt harder than 25. The FFA was pink point. Zac Vertees subsequently sent it placing gear
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24 | ★★★ Beyond Belief - with zachary vertrees, Jamie | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
Just the short version today... cleaning after Zac's onsight ... enjoyable climbing up to where it steps up a little ... pealed out off an off-hands section trying to milk a poor jam to get my other failing jam a bit better ... then continued ... will be back for further attempts and beyond ...
Great climbing and quite novel looking route ...
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief | 40m | Fri 1st Nov 2019 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief - with Jacques Beaudoin, Evan | 40m | Sat 19th Mar 2022 | |||||
Pretty stoked to check this out. Mostly went up to do the 180 move, Ben's photo of which got me keen on cracks in the first place!
That went well, so I kept going to the birth canal. Surprised to do all moves (and clip all gear) free! But I know it gets harder later... Working a ground-to-birth-canal send could be a nice short-term project (Jacques suggested 25 to there but I found it a huuge step up from the 24 version 🤷♂️) |
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief — 2 attempts - with Simmo, Rene Provis, Jacques Beaudoin | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Dec 2022 | ||||
2 Attempts. On my 2nd I managed to get to the last 5m body-squeeze/offwidth section with a single rest, but never really managed to work out the last few metres. To me, with my physiology, it seemed like I was going to need to invert? But lacking more big gear, I was too intimidated to commit properly to it. I'll have to come back with bigger gear, and maybe a few more skills.
The rock is a mixed bag, but it's outweighed by the wildness of the climbing, which is varied, brutish, and intimidating. I used 7 x #4, 2 x #5 and 1 x #6 for the roof part of the crack. I could probably have done with another #6 at least, and perhaps something bigger (purely for the purpose of working the last part of the roof). |
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief - with Dylan Glavas, Jacques Beaudoin | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Dec 2023 | ||||
Yowza. Pump city, had to bail once I'd lost enough skin on my fists. Incredible position and moves in the roof
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief — 2 attempts - with Johnny Sullivan | 40m | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | |||||
Day 1: Bargained, borrowed and begged for every size #4 cam between Blueies and Brisbane to tie in and scope this out.
1st tie in: Aided through about 8m of the horizontal fist crack, getting acquainted with the jams and gear. Back jumped down to anchor and lowered off to give Johnny a catch on another route. 2nd tie in: Had a decent idea of the beta for the section I played on so decided to put all my beans into it. Freed the whole section in one push at max effort, Johnny described the screams as some sort of dying dinosaur 😂 So… super happy with the day as I managed to free an entire section! Still have quite a lot left to do, and conscious the hard stuff is still to come, but it’s a good start. A few takeaways:
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief — 2 attempts | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Jan 2024 | ||||
Day 2:
Tie in 1: A little sketched out by disbelief as the crack was full seeping and I wasn’t 100% ok with cams in potentially wet sandstone. Turned out to be ok and just needed to get the head on straight. 5 sits to get up to the roof and then work a bit more of the beta. Tie in 2: Tried for a full link from ground to the double knee bar. Cruised up Disbelief until a hand jam popped out of a wet piece of the crack at the anchors… Ahh well! Climbed from the fall through the roof to the double knee bar, sat, and then solved the final sequence (mini crux?) that entered the birth canal. Goal for today was to get to birth canal, so that’s a success ✅ Aiming for a clean link from ground into birth canal next session. Beta is all there, climbed all current sequences clean… the final piece might just be a dry crack! 😂 |
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief - with Johnny Sullivan | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | ||||
Failed to get my goal of a ground to birth canal link today. 🤷♂️
All sections are fine in isolation but to actually join them is mega all body pump. Dialed in more beta, climbed sections with far less effort and made it into birth canal. Keeeeeeeeeeeen! |
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief — 2 attempts - with Jacques Beaudoin | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 31st Jan 2024 | ||||
Physically shattered but super stoked to be able to log a hang dog 🎉
A few huge wins today:
Wasn’t sure if the route was actually doable with the last few metres being a giant question mark. Relieved to find out it’s absolutely doable with current strength/skillset and it just needs beta refined. Psyched to come back in a few months in cooler temps and start going for the send! |
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief - with Liamtemp | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||
All sequences now solved and final moves through the birth canal till end done free. One more sesh to link together last section and then red point attempts. Would be great to close this out before Europe!
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief — 2 attempts - with WallWalkerWilson | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 27th Mar 2024 | ||||
Session 6:
Tie in 1: jumared up to work final sequences and then linked end of birth canal to end of route using beta from Saturday. Proper crux for me is the moves past the 180 cut loose + double knee bar. Tie in 2: first proper send attempt. Disbelief was very straightforward and then punched through first crux into the roof. From there, dumped the whole tank and pushed to the birth canal. Fell out doing the sequence setup to get into the chimney but honestly, another 5 seconds on the wall and I would have vomited. Hardest I’ve tried in a very very very long time. 🤞 🤞 |
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28 | ★★★ Beyond Belief — 3 attempts | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 30th Mar 2024 | ||||
Heart break. Fell 1.5 metres from the end 😭
On the final tie in, the roof felt smooth and full flow. A small power scream came out when getting into the chimney but otherwise felt very tight. Milked the rest then cleanly climbed remaining cruxes only to dry fire out of a sandy fist jam. I should have brushed all of those cracks earlier in the week and I probably would have sent. Looking forward to session 8 (hopefully the last one) in a few months. |
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24 | FA ★★★ Disbelief - with Julie Anderson | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Jul 2018 | ||||
FFA. Tried ground up first free ascent but figured out real quick it was safer to clean up few loose chockstones and dirt. Subsequent ascent was FFA of the short version to where a dramatic increasing angle, width and associated difficulty appeared. Again, I always thought Disbelief should not be a proper climb and recorded as such but it's obvious now with increased popularity that the short version of Beyond Belief lives.
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24 23 | ★★★ Disbelief | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Jul 2019 | ||||
24 23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Pedro V | 15m | ★★★ Classic | 2019 | ||||
24 23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Jim Trihey | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Mar 2021 | ||||
24 23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Zac Lazatin | 15m | Sun 14th Nov 2021 | |||||
24 23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Anton Korsun | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th Nov 2021 | ||||
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyaKl6Qy3Zk footy of the send! amazing. zero jugs, just stemming and jamming. trad bliss. will come back equipped for beyond belief
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24 23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Jacques Beaudoin, Zac Lazatin | 15m | Thu 16th Dec 2021 | |||||
Last time I thought Supercrack was better and wasn't in a hurry to return. Happy I did - this actually ROCKS!!
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24 23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | Fri 28th Jan 2022 | |||||
24 23 | ★★★ Disbelief | 15m | Sat 19th Mar 2022 | |||||
Clean repeat, gear was in. This time kept going.
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24 23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Feb 2022 | ||||
23 ~23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Simmo, Rene Provis, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Dec 2022 | ||||
A great warmup if you like steep jamming. More involved climbing than you'd expect from the ground. Great rock, and kinda intimidating.
It felt about gr23 for the Onsight to me, sans jammies or tape -the crux was too wide for me to jam, and too tight to fist properly- so maybe 22 for the redpoint or with jammies? I used 0.5, 0.75, 2 x 2, 2 x 3. |
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24 | ★★★ Disbelief | 15m | Mon 10th Apr 2023 | |||||
I had a spare day over the Easter weekend after the crew disbanded so decided to do some recon on dream projects. Having seen pictures of Disbelief Cave pop up over the years, I knew I had to see Disbelief and Beyond Belief in person.
Hooooly... But pictures simply do not do this place justice! As a self-identified crack climber, this is, for me personally, probably the single most inspiring line I've seen. Mind absolutely blown, Disbelief/Beyond Belief are the perfect names. Can't wait for the day to get the chance to tie in for this. |
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | ||||
Stoked to put down one of my dream lines. What an absolute masterpiece of a crack!
The send is a little bittersweet as I came off right at the chains on the onsight when going to the final hand jam… I gave it my all (zero warmup) but didn’t quite nail it 🤷♂️ I was so flash pumped from jamming I couldn’t open or close my hands for 5 minutes. The pink point burn was absolute flow and went down quickly. It sounds a little silly but a pink point doesn’t quite feel respectful to the climb, will need to come back for a redpoint 😅 |
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Oct 2023 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Dylan Glavas, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Dec 2023 | ||||
One of the best crack lines I've been on! Incredible area with some striking lines, cheers to Jac for showing us! Cruisy jams, classic sandstone cheese grater jamming.
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief — 2 attempts - with Lee Prescott, Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 13th Dec 2023 | ||||
Such a sick sick line!!! Couldn't believe this fucking cave!! To get the full send on the 28 would be sick, and the great divide looks awesome!!! First burn my left tape glove ripped off so I barebacked the last cruxy moves after ripping the glove off. Fucked the onsight due to fluffy errors but got second shot, right to the last jam. Pissed out so much blood on the route near the top. Can't believe the overhanging fist jams at the top !!! MEGA!!!!
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Johnny Sullivan | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | ||||
Chill warmup dog to get to the real business of the day.
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23 | Crack glove ★★★ Disbelief - with Will West, Jason Capenecas, Matthew Robbins | 15m | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | |||||
Some bloke said I’d never flash 5.11 on gear. My fragile ego couldn’t handle that
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief — 2 attempts - with Johnny Sullivan | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | ||||
1 lap for a warmup and then a comfy pink point. Trying to link Disbelief into Birth Canal turns out to be fiercely pumpy.
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief | 15m | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | |||||
23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Jacques Beaudoin | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 31st Jan 2024 | ||||
Getting cleaner and cleaner.
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Liamtemp | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||
Warm up dog to get to the business of the day.
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with Matthew Robbins | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||
What a stunning location. Amazing acoustics for grovelling up such an epic route too.
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief - with WallWalkerWilson | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 27th Mar 2024 | ||||
Cruise.
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23 | ★★★ Disbelief — 3 attempts - with Matthew Robbins | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Mar 2024 | ||||
Brilliant, so satisfying to get off a climb absolutely exhausted. Even managed to squeek out a few Matthew Robbins inspired power screams. Would love to get back out there for a crack at Beyond!
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Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park The Descent Slot | ||||||||
19 | ★★ Gobsmacker | 90m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ Gobsmacker | 90m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
15 | Copperhead Flake | 50m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Judas Wall | ||||||||
24 | From Here to Obscurity | 8m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
unsure if we got the right crag
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Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Main Cliff | ||||||||
18 24 | ★★ Butterflies and Hurricanes (Butterflies and hurricanes (pitch 1)) | 65m | ★ Good | Sat 15th Dec 2007 | ||||
Good warm up for the harder stuff here.
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24 |
★★ Butterflies and Hurricanes
- with
Heath Black
| 65m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | ||||
Tried to climb this as a 70m pitch from the ground. Despite hideous rope drag, I finally fell off on the last hard move of the route. A rather ambitious effort considering its "untrafficked" nature. Dragged Monty up to the belay, and we both sent the top pitch in a more rational style. Quite good rock and climbing (especially on the second pitch), and brilliant exposure at the grade. Take a 0.4 cam for the top!
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26 | ★★ Insert Name Here - with Heath Black | 60m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | ||||
Wow, monstrously huge and steep! Bailed 2/3rds of the way up when we realised we were running out of daylight, and were approaching "rope shenanigans" due the route length. Despite it being quite a mission to ground-up (especially as its so runout -there are 4 bolts in the first 20m!- and very traverse-y), I had a lot of fun on this, and am intrigued to return. I suspect its actually gr27.
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23 | ★★★ Sacred Ground | 63m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th Oct 2006 | ||||
awesome - burly !!
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23 | ★★★ Sacred Ground | 63m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd Jan 2012 | ||||
Fell into space on the crux
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23 | ★★★ Sacred Ground - with Zac | 63m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Mar 2016 | ||||
Harsh warmup...somehow I picked the first pitch and Zac let me, might have been easier if we did it the other way...
Might have been easier if we had a look at route description, rather then me writing one afterwards.
Having discussed the idea of a double rack we still ended up there with just singles and wires...
Ended up bogged just a few body lengths short of the belay, stuck on a ledge with no suitable gear, had to back clean and still could not make the belay for fear of not having gear... |
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23 | ★★★ Sacred Ground - with Stephen Winnacott | 63m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | ||||
P1 - Onsight (low angle slab following an incipient seam with lots of wires, but not so good rock); P2 (Linked with P1) - Pink Point (2nd shot - Gnarly steep crack that overhangs 8m to the pea pod. The crux section is devious and intimidating and super old-school. I had a loooong onsight attempt with probably 20min in the crux steepness before bungling it (the credit goes to Steve for unlocking the beta, after I whipped and came down). The send (with gear in situ) was solid and fun); P3 - 2nd Clean (17ish? Mixed rock quality but fun and continuous wide climbing).
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23 | ★★★ Sacred Ground - with Stephen Winnacott | 63m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | ||||
Yep... another same day lap to do it in good style, placing all gear on lead. Rad!
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23 | ★★★ Sacred Ground - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 63m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | ||||
Epic route. Ended up doing 3 laps all up, as did Paul, linking it all bottom to top clean on the 3rd push. I pink point the 1 & 2 pitch after a lap working out the beta, then Paul got the red point and I followed it up clean on my 3rd lap, then continued on to onsight the final pitch, parched and glycogen depleted. Good solid day out.
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23 | ★★★ Sacred Ground - with Lee | 63m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Dec 2023 | ||||
Epic onsight in one monster pitch. Loads of gear shuffle to avoid rope drag and avoid running out of #4s. Crux was burly fist jams that made me work real hard but I didn't think I'd fall at any moment. For me doing this climb in one pitch made it truly memorable.
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23 | ★★★ Sacred Ground - with Jacques Beaudoin | 63m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 19th Dec 2023 | ||||
Epic line splitting the face! Mostly cruisy except for a short crux, felt pretty easy after finding a kneebar to shake out the pump and setup some solid fist jams.
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21 | ★★ Unknown - with Heath Black | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | ||||
Increases in difficulty, following some cool features until they run out, then gets very thin (and also runout). Rock is a mixed bag, but it climbs well.
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17 | ★ Welsh Wedding Variant | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
17 | ★ Welsh Wedding Variant | ★ Good | Sat 15th Dec 2007 | |||||
Not bad.
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19 | ★ Andy and Caroline | 70m | ★ Good | Sat 15th Dec 2007 | ||||
Good positions. Felt a bit stiffer than 19. Need rings or rap chain at top.
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19 | ★ Andy and Caroline | 70m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
28 | ★★ The Bell's Line - with lee cossey, Ben Sanford, kamil | 60m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Jun 2020 | ||||
Just the 23 bit to the stance with one fall working it out. Outstanding line and climbing but the rock is a bit crunchy. Psyched to come back for the business at some point.
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28 | ★★ The Bell's Line | 60m | Thu 15th Feb 2024 | |||||
Flashed the 23 bit then proceeded to embark on a futile quest up into hostile territory. I managed some scary links up to near the final roof on choss and a prayer before my braveness quota for the day was reached. Lee is a beast.
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28 | ★★ The Bell's Line - with James Hockey | 60m | Don't Bother | Wed 14th Feb 2024 | ||||
It was all too much, too hard, too chossy, too complex, too concerning for my belayer below. At some stage the rock is too bad to even aid. Didn't make it to the crux and stopped when I asked myself "why am I doing this???" It really made me appreciate how well-rounded is Lee's skillset.
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22 | ★★ Spaghetti Surfing | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Dec 2007 | ||||
Great sustained moves all the way. Felt easier than 22.
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Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Supercrack Area | ||||||||
24 | ★★★ Supercrack | 65m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd Jan 2012 | ||||
Takes 7 yellow camalots
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24 | ★★★ Supercrack | 65m | Tue 4th Oct 2016 | |||||
24 | ★★★ Supercrack - with Stephen Winnacott | 65m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | ||||
Psyched for the onsight! A burly, perfect #2 cam roof-crack, that overhangs about 9m. Juggy jams, bomber rock, oodles of gear. Super streno with outrageous moves. Kinda intimidating, but not too hard at the grade. We skipped P1 (you can walk around it), P2 - Clean 2nd - intimidating without big gear, awesome steep stemming/chimneying; P3 - Onsight!
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24 | ★★★ Supercrack | 65m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | ||||
Repeat. Another lap clean on lead to get up the route so I could backjump to clean the gear. Hands starting to hurt now.
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24 | ★★★ Supercrack - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 65m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 8th Jul 2017 | ||||
Skipped P1 by walking to base of P2, onsighted P2, belayed Paul on his onsight of P3 crux pitch, then he lowered off and I flashed it on his gear, was either that or clean it on second but I'm stoked to get it clean even if the gear was pre-placed.
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24 | ★★★ Supercrack | 65m | Sat 25th Nov 2017 | |||||
24 | ★★★ Supercrack - with Ben Taylor | 65m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Oct 2020 | ||||
Could prob get 2nd clean but needed two hands to free several of the cams
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Access isn't too bad if you follow the fire road. GPS coordinates are spot on.