Ascents in Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area by Paul Frothy Thomson having sport-cpr or ascent-date

The climbing is upper echelon "Very Good", but the bolting is so unceasingly garbage that I can't give this better than "Good".

P2 was quite sustained, with consistently rad moves up the arete (and a funky gritstone finale) but seemed rather easy at the grade (though I can see it being nails if you're short). Regardless, I was pretty stoked to onsight it in good style.

The crux of the day were the moves to the 2nd bolt on P3, which was a solid V4 for me. I'm wondering if the recent storms have caused the block you start on to slide down the ledge, or whether perhaps there used to be a cairn there? I'm keen to hear others' opinions who repeat this after me.

Most pitches were good. The crazy roof on P5 was super unlikely, and the spine chiller traverse was great!

Regarding my criticism of the bolting:

• Runouts with near constant ledgefall potential.

• Terrible bolt placements -over-recessed (biner snappers) and constantly out of reach even at my height.

• Irrational belay stances -Bolts too high, or far too low, or a hanging belay instead of on a big ledge?

Prospective multipitch new routers should climb this if only to learn what not to do.

Clean repeat. Giving The Mullet himself the guided tour of the Blueys.

Still a great romp at the grade.

Route #3 of Neil's #40pitches40years . 1hr 50min time on route (no C2C time, as we were climbing other stuff in the area). A few okay moves/sections (P2 and P8 are good) but generally dirty and loose. Because of the dug-out and shaley nature of the rock, I doubt it will clean up as good as BBB. The bolting is bizarre (especially the tiny draw-eating chainlinks) but maybe not as bad as Id been led to believe. All pitches clean. P1 & P2 (linked) - Onsight lead solo while I waited for Neil to finish on Mirrorball; P3-P7 - simul climbed with Neil Leading; P8 - simul-climbed with me leading; P9-P11 - Simul climbed with Neil leading.

7.5 hours Car to Car, including wasting 30min walking back and forth trying to find the start of the climb. Good, but not as classic as some of the other routes at Pierces Pass. P1, P2, P6 and P7 are worth the trip, the rest is merely average. Led Pitches 2,4,6,8,10 after losing the toss for the crux pitch. 1 rest (on second) on crux of first pitch, all others clean. P1 is sustained 22, or 23 for the Onsight (based on the one trick crux move). The traverse is repetitive, but exciting. POSITION!

Repeat. Took us 55min (time on route) to climb this as route #1 of Neil's #40pitches40years . Simul climbed as 2 giant pitches. Neil led P1 - P6, and I led P7 - P8. I'm amazed at how much this route has cleaned up over the years... its now really clean and enjoyable classic easy climbing, with a high variety of styles. Totally worthwhile as a route, despite what you might have heard.

Sometime late 2011. Led pitches 1, 2, 4-5 (simul), and 7. Seconded 3, 6 and 8. About 4.5 hours car to car.