Ascents in Birdwood Gully

Found very easy

5 or 6 years ago, I think. 2 jugs on steepness then a mantle to the anchors. That's about it, from memory.

Shit. A waste of bolts, time, chalk and climbing shoe rubber. The rock takes 'sand' stone to a whole new level. I was pretty much black by the time I finished this climb (and my belayer too). The last time I had that much sand on me, I was at the beach.

Checked out Backyard Basic, but it was getting destroyed by the sun in the afternoon; so decided to check out Birdwood Gully.

Nice looking line and climbs well, one of the nicer climbs here. First move from sit-start was good

Good

Okay, if lots of dirt and leaf debris on upper holds

approach shoed it

Adds a few interesting moves compared to the stand-start; I think it forces you left-handed into the crack first, meaning I had to rotate back around from a poor right hand fist-jam which I fell out of first proper attempt. Really fun, even if you get showered with sand for the first few attempts. Uncertain of grade given the limited amount of climbs of this style I've done; felt fairly similar to Minimal Dramatic Flare in Port Lincoln but that grade is unconfirmed by anyone else so far - stand start is mostly just techniquey, the sit start requires a bit more pulling and flexibility (so grade is probably much more subjective)

send was very messy slipped 2 heels

not very hard

Felt fairly straight forward; think I got this on first or maybe second attempt. Mostly right hand- and foot-jams, with left hand using crimps and footers on the main wall. Tape-glove was useful (only really needed right hand for the stand start; although sit start needed a fairly rough fist-jam on left)

I'm assuming this is a stand start, as the sit seems significantly harder than a V1 (only a slopey RH sidepull and poor cramped feet)

used the shelf. unsure if it is in

COVID lockdown project close to home. Ticked this off today without using the eponymous surfboard. Fun playing around on good holds through a disorienting roof. Keen to get back on the long traverse finish soon.

22nd September 2010.

Pretty filthy at this end but cleaned up ok. Not terrible warm up routes.