Ascents in Bald Head

Climbed this as a giant 50m pitch from the ground as well. This was by far the better of the 2 routes here, with better rock and climbing on every pitch. P3 might be the best pitch of the day!

P1 was a great sustained burly quest.

Fell off 2 bolts from the top of P2 on the onsight -got a bit lost from the bolt positioning and ended up in no man's land.

P3 was awesome rock and "oozy" style climbing.

Climbed as a giant 50m single pitch from the ground, because I couldn't be bothered rebelaying P1 was onsight from the 3rd bolt up. Good climbing on all pitches, though snappy rock (especially due to lack of traffic) demanded some delicate climbing -though I don't think I broke anything off.

Fantastic position – super airy! Thin pleasant climbing. There are definitely harder 22s in the Blueys. I guess it probably earns the grade due to the exposure. It's pointless taking cams down for the route, as you don't need them. I took #.75-3 cams just in case not knowing what to expect given it's a new route (the route changed from a 21 sport to a 22 mixed trad the morning of the climb!) but didn't end up using any as it's well bolted. Good fun.

Second lap on the route, lead solo at night.

Possibly the first repeat by someone not on the FA team (neither Jason nor I knew anyone else who had done it) - and I have to say this is a brilliant addition to Blue Mountains climbing!

Despite some soft rock that can be expected on a long new route, almost all the loose stuff will clean up with another few repeats and all belays are protected from rockfall. There isn't anything too ugly, and gear is much better than expected (look both ways in the chimney).

When it comes to large gear, we brought three 4's a 5 and a 6. The 5 and at least two of the 4's are necessary, but the 6 only protected the first few ~gr18 moves of P1 and spent the rest of the climb sandbagging the follower.

P1 - Not the best gear, whether you bring the 6 or not. Up worrying flake or corner with care.

P2 - Brilliant climbing and gear once past the chossy start, very much Samarkand P2 in style but 5 grades easier!

P3/4 - If you want the full value ~60m marathon chimney experience, end P3 early below chimney/roof (hanging stance off threads - do it 🤪). Then P4 quests forever into the void... we had a 70m rope, not sure if a 60 reaches.

P5 - Funnily enough, the most dangerous part of the route is probably the fully bolted ~gr15 traverse. Easy, but be careful with breaking footers on second, you don't want to take that swing!

P6 - Is ok. Bolts.

P7 - Is absolutely insane for the grade - brilliant and relentless face climbing. I think that the true "line" wanders left after 3 meters, and stays left of the first bolt (don't clip it! climb left of it entirely on gear) before rejoining the bolts at the 2nd bolt and questing up past the 3rd and some more gear.

Whatever I climbed felt every way 22, but going direct and clipping the first bolt looked even harder.

All in all: great climbing and good gear, easy access and wild hanging belays - go do it!

You wanted adventure, you got adventure

Excellent day out. With Dude

its long and adventurous.. thats why

Very old school tradventure. Lots of fun architecture to climb. However, also quite a lot of loose stuff to be wary of. Not a climb for the faint-hearted! Good call in the guide to take lots of big gear. Grades on the first and second pitch are reversed. 1st pitch is 17 and 2nd pitch is 14.

Linked first pitch, for a mega long route. Take lots of draws

Led all pitches, with Wendy. Awesome climb - first pitch had kind of strange bolt position and first two pitches a little chossy but will clear up with climbing. Steep climbing for the 18 pitches and the final pitch really made the climb. Well worth the trip out there!

I want to kiss the man who bolted this climb. Best climb I've ever done hands down. Worth the hour it takes to schlep in. Approach in and out is definitely longer than 45 mins, allow at least an hour. Also the vague path is indeed vague so keep an eye out for the cairns. Megaclassic!!!

Some of the best climbing for the grade - rock quality is nothing short of amazing, very well protected and the view is awesome. Definitely worth doing!!

Very nice, except still a little chossy - broke off two small foot holds on the way up. First belay station is hanging, so if I was doing it again I would link the first two pitches (need a lot of quick draws).

Nice climb with amazing views of Pierces Pass. First two pitches are complete jugfests on some slightly worrying ironstone. Still some holds breaking here and there.

Awesome. Repeat ascent, leading the opposite pitches from last time.

Awesome day out with amazing exposure over Pierces Pass. First two pitches are awesome (pitch 2 is the money pitch), third crux pitch doesn't have the best rock quality with heaps of holds breaking snapping off including a big clip jug. probably due to not much traffic.

Bloody awesome climb. What a route!

Thank you Eww for doing such a great job bolting this route and also really appreciate the effort you have put in to make the approach safer.

Beautiful sustained climbing throughout. The last pitch is probably the money pitch. Got pretty pumped on the climb. Hanging belay was awesome!

Milica Djurovic thanks for the beta on how to find the place. Maybe your notes should also be on thecrag because I actually found them more helpful than the actual approach description.

One small favor to ask from climbers going in to do this climb in the future. Please contribute to the maintenance of the cairns on the approach. We didn't any problems finding the place but some cairns needed a helping hand.

The walk in is so beautiful, saw one of the best sunsets ever on the way out.

Linked with Keenes Hobble for a fun day out.

Nice climbing with lots of bolts. Top pitch best of the three.

Surprised more holds haven't blown off the first pitch since doing this last year, still like climbing on eggshells. Top two pitches make up for it!!!

We added Purkinje arete before this climb. After rapping down weld party scramble down a few metres and continue rapping serendipitous arete.

good rock, straight line and lots of bolts. This is better than a mrs macs pie after a big night.

A bit snappy, but fun and lots of bolts

Struggle town after yesterday's new route antics. Tom led P1&3, I clawed my way up P2 and Anne brought up the rear

Great day out with some tourists, let them have all the leads but what a great route. Almost perfect as a practice multi for some of the bigger multiputch climbs around the bluies.

Dang awesome multi, bit of a rough approach since I went sockless, but once you get there it’s a wow moment. Surrounded by gross valley and then an impressive near vertical wall to the top. Juggy yet pumpy 1st pitch, juggy and fun 2nd pitch , 3rd pitch adds some spice and is more vertical. Epic climb and best multi I’ve done during this blueies trip.