Ascents in Odin Head having Beta

Worked moves, now to find placing gear beta

Broke two holds trying to get off the ground, and then decided just to do the original Three Amigos start (the line is still climbable)

Really good climbing from the first roof on. Perhaps a bit soft at 22, but quite daunting escaping the roofs. Take lots of hand size pieces, and lots of long slings. I managed to lock up my rope entirely between the rock and a BD #1 in the final roof, I had to rap down to free it before bringing Mic up.

Super fun. Two exciting roofs. The first is easier than the second, which involves some delicate chimneying on grotty gear til you get established under the roof, its thin jams and a low lip make it awkward to pull around. But once you escape the sweat dungeon you're rewarded with a superb splitter to the top. Must do!!!

Tried for the onsight, but ended up resting at the first roof, after getting my hand stuck in a solid jam. Definitely didn't bring enough hand size cams and ran out before the second roof and so built an anchor and lowered off. Ended up top-roping the climb clean after to retrieve the gear. Super climb and loved it, although the chimney section could be a bit intimidating with little gear on lead.

Bugger ... so close and yet so far... but I guess a bit of ClifBar, drink and smoke beforehand may not have been best before an onsight..

Lacking double Red and Green didn't help either ... nor did hanging around to try and retrieve a tipped-out medium offset, shenanigans around the tree and trying to conserve stuff for the top... left me a bit ragged heading up the v-Chimney at the top which didn't treat my stomach or dodgy knee too well...

Was really hoping the #2 would just slit right in at the lip... but it didn't really Totem would have been fine, anyway blacked it back in the start of roof. Retrieved long sling from below and then finally went to look round the lip but nah, no gear options to suit my fatiguing condition and hip/knee tweakage that wasn't the best ...

Lowered off the 2 in the roof, retrieving a bunch of gear, climbed back up and aided on to above roof then pulled over the top ...

Really should have onsighted it ...

Hard but a good start to sharp shooter

Wow really good, I straight up hung from two jams. Super scary

Amazing climb

Very cool climb.

Great crack line with some exposure, hand jamming, chimney all in one! Sent clean as a seconder

Not one, but two hand jam roofs?! Sweet as!

Super cool crack line, but probably a touch soft for 22. I really shouldn't be onsighting at that grade.

Other thoughts... hated the chimney below the second roof jam.

Middle of the route is incredibly sandy and chossy for a 3 star climb, but fortunately the rest of the climbing makes up for it.

This would get mega classic if the rock was better quality through the lower section. Total sandbag at 20. Gear gets better just as you pull through the roof on wild moves, awesome climbing continue up to the arete where it doesn't let off. I'm claiming the onsight even though I stuffed up the first 3 meters of climbing.

Maybe soft at 21 ... Shuffling a #4 up the wide part works well if you only have 1 with you ... Roof crack can be avoided by angling right to arête and good gear at end of the roof ... Only 1 tricky move (particularly with a dodgy right knee) on top arête and could have had less bolts up there so loses a star for that

Prob only 35 m as yet again we simul-rapped on a 70m to get down.

Looked like an MEGA climb from the ground feels just as good when on it. Used a few #4's at the bottom but doesn't require so much offwidth technique. The rock is pretty chossy below the roof, but then you get great gear. Hardish move on the arête/slab getting to the first carrot and then nice climbing above - although take care at the top section as quite runout and had a few holds break.

2020 Nov/Dec

Super fun crack. Hard thrutchy start gets you warmed for the rest. Great gear the whole way.

Great climbing up a good looking line. This route has a bit of everything - hands, fingers, chimneying. Stopped at the ledge at 3/4 height and belayed as I had some bad rope drag. Jenna continued to the top. Left some new cord and rap ring on the tree.

A particularly hard start (that spat me off), turns into a great varied climb. We broke it into two pitches just before the chimney (which is awesome thrutchy fun). Just above this is another hard burly section with a risk of ledge fall, so if its at your limit I would potentially build the belay here instead.

Another great route in this area. Hard start and slipped off twice (once in the dark trying to get gear out, and the other getting a hand jam stuck). Pumpy till the rest on the ledge! Chimney was interesting - couldn't see anything in the dark and kept squeezing my shoulders up (had bruises on them for a while after) until attempted to get on the face. Unfortunately got rained out and had to bail.

Awesome splitter with very cruxy roof just off the ground. A bit sandbagged at grade 20. First pitch only as it got dark AND started raining. Onsight of full route pending return to the very cool Odin Head!

What a brilliant route. Note that a 60m rope reaches the ground from the big tree just left (facing out) of the top of the route.

That was awesome!! Bit stiff off the deck but not too bad, just beautiful hands but still varied climbing. Into the chimney. And another cruxy undercut on good jams. One pitch to the top then abseiled off slung tree few metres left

Wasted a bit of energy getting bogged down at the start but managed to sort it in the end and settled down into the climbing without having any real worries about gear .. Stuck it out to the end for the OS...

Prob only 35 m as yet again we simul-rapped on a 70m to get down.

Alec lead as one pitch - seconded clean. Awesome moves and a varied climbing - although a bit awkward at the end.

Surely one of the best moderate cracks in the mountains. A little damp after all the rain, but non the less mega classic

This felt hard! Good though.

Wigged out by the squeeze chimney

What an absolute belter, this one has a bit of everything !!!

Quite an old school route with a nice bit of chimney thrutching in the middle. great gear throughout.

A real struggle in the chimney, lost all my energy and popped off at the top just as the crack starts to flare

Finally a send! There was many parts to this journey

Having freshly climbed 24 sport, and with the odd 21 under my belt on Trad, 20 was going on be no problems at all. "I'll just throw a warm-up lap on this before jumping on shaprshooter", I thought... But alas, Odin had different plans for me after a whip at the first crux and freaking out in the squeeze chimney I was relieved to bail down the rap line that was set.

A few weeks later, now knowing what I was in for, "of course I'll get it this time". Once again destiny did not agree with ambition. After placing gear at 30cm spacings from the bottom I managed to get through the chimney with a 3 microcams remaining. Not a great position to be in as you stare up the third crux, a thin hand crack. Yet another bail.

Third time lucky right? WRONG! After diligently spacing my gear I got to the chimney and hyperventilated trying to get out. That, in combination with the 30⁰+ day made me wobbly and nauseous heading into one of the hardest moves on the climb, straight off at fairly substantial ledge was decidedly suboptimal. Yet another bail.

In my fourth attempt, 3 months later, after whipping at the first crux twice, I managed to get past the chimney with breath and gear remaining. Soaking up almost 2 hrs on the large rests and drinking a litre of water enroute, it was game time. Only 2 footholds broke on me, as did my crack gloves (whose thumbloop I accidentally clipped to a piece). But I got to the final crux and pushed through. 20 cams 3 hexes and many body wedges later I summited. What a mission!

I loved it but won't be back on it for a while. Not a 20 in my opinion. Full value Trad!

Back to some blue collar crack bashing. My hands look worse after one pitch in the Blueys than after 14 days at Arapiles. Definitely need a well rounded bag of crack tricks for this one. It's probably 20 if you can climb 20 in about 3 different crack styles at once but would feel miles harder if not. An awesome awesome pitch, one of the best.

What a journey! If you have extra #1's definitely take them. Feels good to have the skin broken into again!

A wild adventure, I can’t believe the variety of jams! I think I aged years. Felt like I was reborn after the squeeze chimney - “what’s happening to me?” I was humbly schooled by the cheese grater thin hands (not hand crack) above the giant lunch ledge. The spicy choss top teaches you how to ringlock properly

Tradddyyy. A bit of a grunt down low but a fun, fun, fun splitter is your reward! An abundance of no-hands rests gives it the grade.

Learning to jam. Bit above my pay grade. Will be fun when I come back in a year or 2

Felt like I was working very hard on lead. Was disheartened by how fast my second appeared. I've got bruises on my shoulders from the chimney. Lovely Jambs.

Fun and varied, glad i didn't have to lead the tight chimney

Great climb, lots of cool moves. No, the top of the chimney isn’t the end of the climb.

Not alot of dreams came true finding the wall but they sure did on this climb! Good to link with rickety rick again and patrol the highlands of odin head hunting wild cracks

after some faff, I down climbed the cruxy start, unclipping all gear, but leaving one piece in that i later re-clipped. but my time climbing with ash has taught me to have a bit more fun and not be such a narc, ergo flash. no hands rests (actually primo sit down rests) are da bomb.

the undercut after the chimney felt nails through some combination of rope drag, lack of fitness and bad beta. try better rope management and more of the big right pocket next time?

Start was hard, slipped out of the jam trying to gain the headwall a couple times. Would've kept working it but we were running out of time. Great climb otherwise (other than the squeeze chimney).

Note for future self: bring 3 #1s, only need 1 #3, 3 #2s would be nice but not strictly necessary.

It goes! It's a very good climb. Did it with 1 less #1 than last time.