Ascents in Falling Water Wall by Paul Frothy Thomson

Ground-up FA. An obvious series of linked corner features. P3 is the money -a longer, more exposed, but chossier version of Catch the Wind- though the FA version of P4 (through the roof) is pretty wild on gear. Unfortunately, P2 was a waterfall, so I had to climb the face next to it (which was kind of dangerous) but when dry, the corner should be easier and safer.

Facilitating Simmo's FA of this old-skool modern-day classic.

Beautiful rock, and radical climbing, with lots of rests between tricky moves. As a giant pitch, almost entirely on gear, this is kinda intense (could maybe use an extra bolt or 2?)

Done with a Gentleman's Sit at a no-hands rest to avoid pinching the FA.

Proper cool!

6 days of effort. The rock is Cosmic-esque quality, and the climbing is amazing, but as an "experience" its more "brutal" than fun IMO.

2 very different pitches.

P1 climbs like a steeper, harder and more sustained version of Kizashi (and is mostly on bolts).

P2 is all about the gritstone-esque insecurity, and is mostly on gear.

P3 is just an exit pitch

5 days of effort -though 4 of those were wasted with an utterly stupid way of climbing the crux.

Crazy crazy steep mixed climbing over the void. Sustained, and absent "ledges" or major breaks... but marred by "Duck-Wall-esque" rock quality (read: average Blueys Rock), so I'm only giving it 2 stars.

First shot today, after having fallen off 44m up the 45m pitch a few weeks ago. Maybe 3 full days of effort in total?

Quite a lot harder than Gaze a Gazely Stare (the boulder is more full-on, the rests are less restful). It's also more committing, IMHO.

Still super-wild steep climbing above gear, though

Another lap to do it properly -placing all gear on lead.

I had a lot of (scared) fun with this one. Radical gr23ish start through a roof to a ledge. Then 4 hard boulder problems (with big runouts) between gear nests. Two are vertical runouts, 2 are horizontal runouts. Very gritstone-esque as it links features to forge a line.

I almost fell off the final move to the anchor, and had to power-scream to get through it.

Bloody great day out.

Would be classic (in the style) if it were more accessible, but unfortunately the approach is nightmare-fuel, and the rock is only 3.5/5 on a Blueys rock-quality rating scale.

Probably hard at the grade.

Great rock, and continuous and sustained technical face climbing in an exposed location.

Proper chuffed that this goes almost entirely on gear (only 4 bolts on the FA!) as all of the hard moves are above gear. It feels pretty "out there" to execute gnarly technical trickery over cams.

Clean repeat for training

Repeat P2 and P3 to free the crack proper on P2. A good crack adventure of the sort you'd find in the Grose.

What a journey! Surprise send, after spending the morning on Simmo's route, and only tackling this at the end of the day with a view to sorting out the "send logistics" (with a route this long, steep, and wandery... It's fair to say that it's involved).

There's just so much here to remember, and with it being so steep, you're always on a timer to get it done. Steep, gymnastic, and sometimes quite technical. Would be megaclassic, but the rock is only about as good as Sunny Side Bell, so far from the best the Blueys has to offer. It's almost too hard to sum it up at an experience, even with the copious amounts of hyperbole I can command

2 Full days working the bottom 26/27 arete, and the effort I originally put in to climb Gaze a Gazely Stare (as well as a few repeated laps for fitness and training). On the send, I committed to constant 5m+ runouts to avoid dealing with rope drag.

TRS Sussing lap on the bottom pitch, and the cheeky pink-point psuedo-FFA on the top pitch.

An absurd line through the roof crack above the start of P4. Roof jams, Heel-toe above head, and some steep cranking on gear. Took me an annoying number of attempts to send.

Still needs to be done placing the gear on lead (its a mission to clean it, and we were racing a storm).

TRS lap to retrieve my trad gear from this route. Good casual pumping. I'm back up to having 3 racks of gear now! (its been a few months of sparsity with only 1 rack of gear in my posession).

2 laps on TRS for training. Trying to build some steep fitness again! Despite being bell-quality-rock, I just find this super steep pupper so much fun!

Clean Repeat. Seconding Simmo after the First Ascent. Still bloody great.

Supporting Mitch on the First Ascent

An awesome, mid-length multi, with no boring bits, and nothing too hard. Might be one of the best multis in this grade range (I guess the competition would be routes like Saccharine Nightmare or Yak Banquet?).

P2 was my favourite