Ascents in Pindari

Alt leads with Ant 1980

Alt leads with Ant 1980

Pitch 1 only at the end of the day. Fought tooth and nail but fell off at the last bolt. The top 10m is at least 30 degrees overhanging the whole way! Awesome steep and powerful face climbing around a crack. On topping out, I almost dislodged a 1/2 cubic metre of rock onto my belayer, jumped off before the rock could actually topple and took a 12m fall. I trundled the block later after topping out. Looking forward to getting back on this and doing the upper pitches as well.

P1 Onsighted to the top crux move, which feels pretty much impossible at the grade for short people - I couldnt do it. Pity as the rest of the pitch was pretty cool. Massive thunderstorm arrived so seconded jenna on P2 aiding all the hard bits, looks like an awesome pitch. Prussic'd out P3 as it was all slime.

P1 only. The goal was to do all three pitches, but the 38 degree heat killed that ambition... One day I'll get to do the upper pitches! 3rd shot to tick this (should've been 2nd shot, but I bungled a lower move, wasted a tonne of energy to correct, then fell off the LAST move to the ledge pumped silly). Went soundly 3rd shot. Short, but intense, and unique for the Blueys. The cruxes are probably quite hard if you're short. Unfortunately the rock is of mixed quality, but the climbing makes up for that.

1st pitch would probably be better on gear rather than bolts ... the rest maybe not ... swung leads as a party of three on one cord, tieing in halfway... I lead 3rd pitch with a rest or two to sort out holds, sequences and runouts ... definitely an area to go back to ... other options look good ...

Epic climbing, this was so fun, first pitch went but not free,second pitch was very interesting to work out beta, French freed. Managed to onsight the 3rd pitch, but, doing it on lead would have been engaging af!!!

LED with Ant 1980

Classic trad line. Small hands jam crack.

trad crack

Alt leads with Ant 1980

Linked the two pitches. Not sure if I did the correct line on 2nd pitch as multiple options.

Alt leads with Ant 1980

Quick exploratory lap on the crux between Genes shots on the top pitch of JoJ, then bailed once this joins JoJ higher up. Super intense, hard and tenuous arete climbing. I eventually figured out the moves, but putting it all together will be HARD. Needs a lot of cleaning, just like JoJ did.

With Gene. COULD be a classic if it werent covered in dirt and lichen. The most sustained pure arete I've done in the Blueys. Lead both pitches and dogged both, struggling with one move on each (knowing the sequence and cleaning the holds mean it should go next time. P1 is 23 in the same way On Edge is 22. Hard first 10m, then sustained 21 to the belay. Bring #3 and/or #5 cam for the death runout. P2 has a hard, scary section during the traverse and immediately after, but is otherwise great fun.

With Gene. Both pitches went first shot today after I scrubbed about 1kg of lichen and dirt of the crucial holds with a wire brush. Made for a brutal warm up, but was excellent climbing the whole way. The first 10m of P1 is still intense! Get on it while its clean!

LED with Mark B. 1980

This is a desperate and dirty climb! Took a lot of cleaning and a lot of broken rock to make it to top, but there's plenty of dirt and fragile choss left for next silly climbers. Top out and top belay aren't ideal but it's the first bulge that is shoddiest in terms of protection and rock quality. And then the top crack would be decent if it wasn't full of dirt and the feet are mostly non existent so nice and pumpy. Not sure where the star came from because there aren't any ascents recorded since 1980 🤣

LED with Mark B. 1980

Take one or two #6's. This is off width with no other option for protection from ground fall. I climbed on without and lived to tell the tale 😂

Loved this. More of a whole leg and a half jam than a fist jam for me.

2020 late

Dirty and scary but plenty of fun. Need big gear #6 or your pretty strung out

Difficult for 16.

Great! tough if you're not practiced at stemming. Attempted to lead, got 4 meters up before I cried for mummy. Just made it clean 2nding.

2020 late

1st pitch only, the hand crack not using corner

Gentle stemming into a fun overhang with a corner crack. The second pitch had a fair bit of choss on it.

Can just remember doing it, was very good.

Followed the instructions but felt like we got off route. First pitch fairly straightforward past a couple of trees. Second pitch went down 3m where to pillar met the arete. Maybe needed to climb further up the arete frist??? Otherwise the pitch we took was interesting. Third pitch had a 7m unprotected traverse to a bush ledge. Last pitch was very mossy and few placements. Wouldn't do again if that is infact the route. An adventure though.

need a few 3.5 or 4 camalots,will return

Well it's definitely all free now! Need to go back with more then 1 big cam for less drama

Challenging, took a fall and started again at the bottom of the off width, rapped from the rings on the 27. So not really ticked the whole route.

This would be a mega classic if it was cleaned and had two more bolts on it - a lot of rope drag so best done in two pitches - hanging belay at top of thin crack on White Lion then straight up on right side of arete - -keep calm, don’t fall!