Routes in Victoria Falls

Classic! Rebolted with RB's 2017. Bring a medium wire if you want to stitch the last few meters. Creative slabbing start veering right , through crux at bulge then easy into corner and DRB lower-off.

Starts between ACF and SOA , High stick clip then up and right under first bolt then up line of ubolts and excellent juggy rock to lower-off 3m right from SOA.

5m left of SOA. Now with a direct start as flake on left has returned to nature. Rebolted 2017. Maybe the best route on the wall.

Carefully head left above SOA first bolt then up , long draw under rooflet then take your pick of the two neighbours. Rebolted 2017. Probably a better climb linking into OBL now but the name remains.

Wild arete. Climb small tree to gain undercut arete and first carrot bolt. Rusty bolts.

Right side of crag. Reachy layback start then up steep wall above with a slight right trend. Crank through small roof to finish. Probably best to stickclip 2nd bolt unless you are strong.

Starts 3m left of Optimum Beer Level. Up black wall (hard start) to small ledge. Right a touch and up flake for a couple of metres then up steeper orange wall. There is an unrecorded left hand finish via one old rusty bolt about halfway up the wall. Rebolted 2021.

Left most ringbolted route on the main cliff starting between two small caves. Climb pillar and wall to lower-off.

Left side of cave. Stick-clip first ring, grab big heuco and monkey up face above through rooflet.

Sport route up the centre of the first buttress. Starts out slabby and crimpy and rises to steep orange headwall finish.

Iron stone plated face with undercut start just left of corner about 30m left of Baldness for Beginners. Lots of angled square cut holds that climbs a little different to the average Bluies face route. Sustained. Finishes at small ledge.

Start at first "obvious" crack right of access gully.

1. 25m Crack to roof, flaky rock through roof, belay on rock on arete.

2. 5m Arete to top of main block then step across to main cliff. Scramble off.

Unremarkable face and slab leading to excellent steep crack headwall, finishing in a burly mantle. Locate rap chain above track approx 20m left of Optimum Beer level. Rap 40m on seperate rap line with a good rope protector for top edge, hitching a sling on tree at top proper for something to clip after topping out route. Rap to large ledge 8m above ground and use U bolt for belay. An ikea bag for climbing rope is advised as ledge is dirty and sloping. Place a #3 cam in crack to the left , then climb this, moving to the right at base of vague ramp on grey slab. Up this placing gear. Pass two ubolts to large break, placing #6, then up to bolt. From here up through steepness , spanning left to base of headwall crack, then to top. All gear was placed on lead during first ascent. (After pink pointing then stripping). A bag with a jacket, water, and a snack is usefull and can be hauled on rap line when day is done.

Initialed major crack halfway along wall. Stem up easy corner to start then wide crack which narrows to perfect hands. Topout looks vegetated. BR to belay from.

Rap off tree down from SOA. P1 Through roof, corner to cave P2 20 through roof on R, crack.

Mostly unappealing black slabby wall that forms left side of subtle arete 2m left of Baldness. Rusty bolts.

4 rusty carrots up the wall left of War Crimes. First bolt is very high and the top looks dirty. This route was not recorded in previous print guidebooks but looks like its from the 80s.

Starts 2m left of Daddy School. Short wall (currently vegetated/burnt) to super high BR (don't break your legs). Up slab past 2nd BR to headwall (#3 & 3.5 friend). Left and up (2 BRs) on jugs to tree belay on top.

100m L of the gully. Is initialled, diagonal crack to ledge. Harder to protect than it looks. Presently vegetated in its entirety.

Furthest corner up stream on lower cliff. P1. Up into wide enjoyable crack on face , a #5 cam would be handy near top , then up flakey corner to standing belay ledge. Natural belay though anchor of sport route makes handy high runner. P2. Up cleaner crack in large slot, the opposite of exposure. Shimmy right when crack peters out to good horizontal + ubolt belay or extend gear and top out proper. P3. Short scramble right then up to med cam and tree belay.

Line of U's to single U lower off. Left of NBT

Carrot and fixed hanger below orange streaked arete corner

Sharp slabby arete next to access gully. Seems a long way to the first rusty bolt - take care.

Ringbolted route 2m right of Peace Frog. Currently red-tagged.