Showing all 29 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
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Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake | 60m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Dec 2016 | |||
The best pitch of 19 in the mountains? Sutained splitter with good gear. Too much sport climbing makes the crux last 5m the easiest bit. Didn't do 2nd pitch - needs small gear to rps; looks fun but an easy rap after the money pitch makes an easy choice.
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Dec 2016 | |||
Great warm-up. Fun easy hands to cool traverse all with good gear. Easy but slightly runout slab. Rap off the tree down the gully with care of rocks. Drop the ropes down the gully rather than toss. Lots of trees for ropes to wrap around
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Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Wade's World | |||||||
19 | ★★ A Walk Across the Rooftops | 30m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th May 2018 | |||
Strong line. Pretty steep with long pulls and big flat edges, Pumper.
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20 | ★★★ Sleepwalking | 33m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th May 2018 | |||
Fun slightly overhanging edge pulling. A bolt or two less would increase the flow. Small but active wasps nest in the hole makes for some judicious circumvention.
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22 | ★★ The Son and Heir | 33m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th May 2018 | |||
E grade slab that's more engaging than it looks. Burly headwall that keeps on givin'. Deserved 3 stars.
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18 21 | From the Flagstones | 28m, 6 | Average | Sun 20th May 2018 | |||
Is this edgy and dull direct?. Fun through the bulge. Easy but sparsely protected finish.
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Mount Victoria Area Little River | |||||||
19 | ★★ Little River Snooze | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | Sat 7th Oct 2017 | |||
Better and harder than it looks. A little speccy. The flake to the left was super fun but a big chunk of it might not stay.
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Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | |||||||
22 | ★★ Die, Fox, Die | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | |||
More perfect ringlocks in 15m than the rest of the blueys, with one all-in there crux move. Taped knuckles, comfy shoes, and 0.5s.
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25 | Unbolted 6 | 15m | Average | Mon 4th Oct 2021 | |||
Ordinary start and finish, perplexing middle. Not a modern 25. Hard DS.
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22 | ★ Endotoxic Shock | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Sep 2021 | |||
Not a sandbag, just proper 22. Not a warm-up though. Boulder start and then very pleasant locks and jams.
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22 24 | ★★ Chilled Puppy Complex | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | |||
21-25 height dependent. 22/23 for most. Multiple cruxes and nice movement. Tricky OS, specific beta takes out a lot of the sting. Stick clip first bolt for a sport route. Very well bolted.
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Mount Victoria Area New York West (Left) Side | |||||||
17 | ★ Schizophrenic Sideburns | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | Sun 2nd May 2004 | |||
sporty without the one bit of gear.
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Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | |||||||
24 24 R | ★★ The Age of Reason | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | |||
R/X? Not even close. A distinct lack of holds the whole way. It's hard and a long way to the first bit of gear. A couple of blank imaginary sidepully, high smeay, reachy cruxes after that. Bring skin and fresh feet.
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23 | ★★ The Rage this Season | 30m, 99 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jul 2021 | |||
R. 20 year re-visit. Start is as bad as I remembered. Traverse low to stay close to the ground. Alright after the 1st bolt. Pumpy into cruxy undercling mono deadpoint. Pleasant sustained slabbing in-between with the fun EW finish.
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21 | ★★ Iron in the Soul | 30m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jul 2021 | |||
I guess gear is optional if you don't fall off. Obvious cam placements and maybe a wire or two. Doesn't need extra bolts and the crux is well protected. Doesn't seem R. Will have to tie in and see.
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Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | |||||||
14 | ★★ The Obituary | 30m | ★ Good | Fri 25th Mar 2005 | |||
fun top-out
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Mount Victoria Area Mount York Echo Gully | |||||||
18 | ★ Misjudgement | 27m | Average | Sat 1st Oct 2005 | |||
Lower-offs to the left.
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Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | |||||||
18 | ★ Sparrow | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | Fri 30th Jul 2021 | |||
21 | ★ Spangled Drongo | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | Fri 30th Jul 2021 | |||
Typical blueys.
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23 | ★★ Crystal Set | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 10th Aug 2021 | |||
Great delicate, insecure climbing. Bit of a softy? No hard pulls or killer crimps really, with some fun sidepulls. Direct over the bolt works and is easier than trending left. Just the right amount of gear. Doubles could help. Don't pull off the block that's partly gone. Most of the 21s around here are as hard. Congrats to Ant & Ben (160 Vic) for the send. Deserves way more attention.
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23 | ★★ Radios Appear | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Aug 2021 | |||
Topo is wrong. All share the same start, or start CSD. Can go very slightly independent of CS at 1st break with what looks like a good wire and nice climbing (but slightly worrying ledge of Lishenback). Well protected, sustained crux with just enough good holds. R foot 3" higher than obvious is key for the not tall people.
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Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | |||||||
22 22 R | ★★ Left Lane Ends | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Aug 2021 | |||
Groundfall with bonus ledge fall. Spectacular edging with an unexpected nails crux. Lack of traffic means it will need a brush, probably best to rehearse anyway. Loses one star for old bolts, dirt and potential serious injury. Start in the middle of the wall is slightly better/easier. Good warm-up for Age of Reason?
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23 | ★ Disjointed | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | Tue 17th Aug 2021 | |||
3 fun thin bouldery moves of 23 and then pleasant rambling with good gear. Direct start is slightly easier but not quite as engaging.
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19 | ★★★ Auntie Jack | 27m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Jan 2023 | |||
Who am I to argue it's classic.
25 year repeat. Less gear than I remembered but not as pumpy. Nice climbing made engaging just by being on decent spaced gear with those bomber nuts to finish. Very, very soft for the grade with the crux off the ground and before the bolt. |
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Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond | |||||||
18 19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | ★ Good | Fri 15th Apr 2022 | |||
Sport route with optional cams. Some delicate arete moves. Start is more pleasant than it looks. Probably still soggy at 18. Nose-butting sharp edges not recommended, chunky gusher.
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Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | |||||||
17 | ★★ Bumflute | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Apr 2022 | |||
Nice climbing and positions; don't know what Geoff's on about. 1st climb with people since covid.
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Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall | |||||||
23 23 R | Toads | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | Sat 11th Sep 2021 | |||
Feet and modern shoes. Direct into Wazzakstan works too. Little harder, way scarier.
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16 | ★★ Giggles | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Oct 2005 | |||
classic and sustained at grade.
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Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Black Gold Buttress | |||||||
22 21 | ★★ Long Distance Relationships | 50m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Jan 2020 | |||
Yes the 1st pitch is icky and a bit hard but the 2nd pitch is the money. So airy and take just 1 or 2 smallish cams...not a full rack! Typical summer arvo from smoke-filled, baking 28C to 15C, heavy mist and massive windchill. As noted this does the Screen Gems crux and then some. Multi-ing is a good option and yes you can walk off.
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Showing all 29 ascents.