Ascents in Crackle Area having Beta

Overhanging start then up the crack then up a bit left. Pumpy at the top of the crack but fun.

Straight up over overhand. Tricky at half height, wall leans out so pumpy. Good challenge.

Climbed both routes up through cave a up the middle of the wall. Went right right at the bottom of the right variant and up. Fun climb.

Several variations. Fun climb.

Overhanging start. Up crack then right up centre of wall. Thoughtful moves all the way.

Fun overhanging start. Several challenging sections pumpy in places.

Delightful

Very runout

First Known Assent in Crocs

Long-standing proj goes down

Tronsight on the TR mashup route.

Suss gear as described, but otherwise great

Loved the start

Dante’s climb. R variant finish, a grade or two easier.

Much easier than the registered grade. Take a few extra 120cm slings for protection!

Excellent climb but stiffer than the registered grade. Cruxy move coming out of the cave but all the holds are there. Quite a few good restrictions for nuts.

BM winter skills

Fun easy jug hauling

Onsight, lead rope solo, lovely route. Takes gear fine and I didn't have a problem w/ placements, but would suggest the advice in the topo anyway - as it's seen some fatalities, make sure you are confident of the route.

Not much to pin your safety upon.

Counted about 8 bits of potential pro. Steep at the top.

There are some things from the 70s I not only liked but miss: flares, those fluffy girl's hairstyles, the sax solo, and particularly, The Dark Side of the Moon. I think there's a sound case for bringing back Lindemans Ben Ean Moselle and filterless Camel cigarettes, which lasted long afterward, and declaring analog synthesiser music to be intangible cultural heritage.

But don't be deceived: a rock climb from 1974 is not the same as one of the 90s or 2020s, so if you want to do this, be prepared for an undercut start that might fornerly have involved using a tree, then 18ft to the first welcome sideways medium hex. At which point one can traverse off left along a good ledge to the access gully, which might just be the best idea. Another piece at 25ft, maybe a sling and another bit at 35ft then the crux, an overhung grade 15 pull-up above a ledge, then run it out to the top. It's juggy and ledgy enough, with no logical reason to fall off, but to get back to 1974, some things are simply left, as they were, of their time.

Nasty start almost w/o pro. Long traverse w/o much pro. Climbing is not hard. Need to look for gear placements, its not obvious. I would say its grade 14

Used half ropes which worked really well and no rope drag. Not much pro in the top section so just kept going on easy holds

Practicing placing gear

Fun climb. Very steep towards the top

Warm up. Led on pre-placed gear

Hello again Pop!

Climbing opened on 14/01/20 -Good to see Rice Bubbles again!

Nice face climbing, but with a hard starting move that's probably more like grade 15. Found the gear to be fine, getting in 8-9 good, evenly-spaced pieces. Big gear unnecessary as you can alternatively just sling a bollard at the front of the big horizontal break.

Sub optimal pro extension caused the rope to zig zag. Had to deadlift the rope up to get to the top. Made it considerably harder than what it should have been.

Tor struggled on first move at end of day. Fun ramble

Fun route to get back into the spirit of good old trad climbing

Very fun little climb! Interesting start! You then make your way up fun and easy slab climbing!! After that it fets a bit trickier as you make your way through the slightly overhanging stuff

Great on top rope!

Very nice, a bit run out

Nice exposure

It was pretty underprotected through the centre, but I'd suggest not dangerously so. Some good chickenheads and bulges to sling.

Not a bad route, actually. Instead of stepping around left, you can go straight up the orange face at about grade 16.

Seconding to clean. This was also better than expected.

Good for top-roping (easy set up from the top, but takes a lot of gear - looooong slings). Wouldn't lead that on gear for all the money in the world

Fun but sparse (and kinda shit) pro.