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Routes in Dragon's Tooth Area

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown
16 Mistral(variation)
Unknown 20m Blue Mountains
20 Project 1

Start: Sparse older carrots on wall 3m right of DT. From the ground, it appears to require gear between 1st and second carrots, then ?

FA: Unknown, 2000

FA: Unknown, 2000

Unknown 15m Blue Mountains
20 Mombassa - left arete of TS

(Is this the same route as TS DS?).

Unknown 20m Blue Mountains
25 Hermaphrodite Hamster

Old 80's project rebolted. Line of rings up the hard blank slab 2-3m right of Technical Stuff, to DRB.

FA: K Allen & C Coghill, 2009

Unknown 20m, 6 Blue Mountains
Trad
12 Dragon's Tooth

Classic. The obvious wide corner crack.

Rack recommendation: A single rack of cams with #4. You don't necessarily need a #5 or #6. At the start, bump the #4 cam as high as possible (deep in the crack) and then as your next pro, see if you can find a thread runner (a pocket that you can sling around).

Either step R to the lower-offs of adjacent routes, or go to tree belay at the top then walk out to the road.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

Trad 30m Blue Mountains
17 Technical Stuff

Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameter; brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1979

Mixed trad 20m, 6 Blue Mountains
12 R Mistral

Crack 3.5m right of S. Up onto blocks then corner to top.

FA: J.Bishop & J.Aalders, 1974

Trad 30m Blue Mountains
22 Malignant Polymer

Start: 5m right of MMR.

FA: G.Weigand & G.Clark, 1983

Trad 30m Blue Mountains
15 Fohn

Direct start to Mistral. Start right of Mistral at crack leading to slab with single bolt below overhang. Climb thru overhang to join Mistral and step right at top to Panasonic Princess DRBB lower off.

Rack recommendation: Single rack (#0.3 to #3, with double of #2) and a set of compulsory nuts.

FA: W. Williams, A Halkyard & K Melville, 2009

Mixed trad 20m, 1 Blue Mountains
Sport
26 Calamity Jane

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth. Rings on left side of central wall of the square cut recess.

FA: Ivan Valenta

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
22 Samnivel

Great wall climb. Thin in places. All rings. Start: 3.5m right of TS.

FA: J.Smoothy, S.Knight & R.Weigand, 1982

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
21 Panasonic Princess

All Aussie iconic carrots in their full glory. A tad run out to keep you modest and humble in this mean world.

Delicate balancey moves up the arete and then the final jug fest up head wall to loweroffs.

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
20 Metabo Man

Start 1m L of MMR, up the slab then the nice leaning grey headwall 2m L of MMR. All carrots, but the first one is high and a tricky clip so either clip the first carrot of PP on the left or bring a cam.

FA: J Allwood, 2000

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
23 Mal's Mega Route

Steep classic on good rock and rings all the way. High first bolt can be supplemented with small cam in a break, or a long stick clip from first ledge if you wish.

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: M. Gray & J. Smoothy, 1982

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
25 Roger's Smegma Chute

Start 5m R of MMR, one high FH in grey rock then the orange headwall on rings. A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited. Although latest guidebook states an attentive belayer is required, no amount of attention avoids the nasty crux fall. Instead fix a 120cm sling to next bolt and clip where the bolt should be.

FA: Roger, 2008

Sport 20m Blue Mountains
18 Ooops

Line of obvious fixed hangers between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete to loweroffs.

FA: G Short P Mort, 2008

Sport 15m Blue Mountains
19 Technical Stuff (direct start)

Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS. (Is this the same route as Mombassa?).

Sport 20m Blue Mountains

Showing all 17 routes.

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