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Routes as trad in Abseil Gully

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Showing all 18 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
12 The Eyrie
1 12 30m
2 12 15m

One of the best and most traveled easy routes in the mountains - great rock and exposure. Can be done as one big pitch with a couple of slings. Start on blocks at base of grey slab beneath Eyrie belay cave.

  1. 30m (12) Slab past cams to ring bolt (possible belay), left to arete, past another FH and up to the unique bolted belay cave. 2 bolts plus single rack of cams (Camalot 0.5-4)

  2. 15m (12) Out left hand side of cave via steep, exposed moves to FH. Up left side of arete and back onto main face to find old RB. Top out for carrot belay set back from the edge, or DRB on the boulder further back.

FA: J Worral & H Ward, 1969

Mixed trad 45m, 2, 3 Blue Mountains
10 Sweet Irish
1 9m
2 10 40m

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

  1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge and triple bolt belay

  2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to tree belay.

FA: L.Smith & B.Postill, 1967

Trad 49m, 2 Blue Mountains
14 Set, Piece, Battle

A remarkable juggy headwall on the 2nd pitch. Start 2m right of AMJ below bolt at 5m. Single set of cams required.

  1. 20m 2 bolts and spaced trad to double bolt belay.

  2. 30m Continue up wall and slightly overhung orange jugs above (6 bolts).

FA: A.Penney, P.Martland & J.Smoothy, 1985

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 8 Blue Mountains
15 Another Man's Juliet

Start: To the right of E. Straight up nice slab aiming for the brief vague corner a metre or two right of the Eyrie's belay cave. Straight up this and into jugs above.

FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1984

Mixed trad 48m, 2, 3 Blue Mountains
7 Abseil Slab

Start: Ledge to the right of the descent ladder remnants.

FA: G.Owens, M.Clarbourgh & B.Shirley, 1967

Trad 34m Blue Mountains
13 Bonnie Scotland

Start: Centre of the 'Black Wall'. Straight up with 'creative' pro to an airy finish.

FA: M.Clarbourgh, B.Shirley & G.Owens, 1967

Trad 53m Blue Mountains
8 Tongan Corner
1 8 24m
2 8 35m

Start: 3m right of SI.

  1. 24m (8) Corner, face to ledge under overhang.

  2. 35m (8) Corner, right, back to corner and up.

Gum tree and bollard for anchors.

FA: G.Owens, J.Wilson & L.Muzzatti, 1967

Trad 59m, 2 Blue Mountains
8 Abseil Arete

Start: Arête right of F&J.

FA: G.Owens, M.Clarbourgh & B.Shirley, 1967

Mixed trad 30m, 6 Blue Mountains
12 Old England

The first climb at Mt.Boyce.

Start: 6m right of BS.

  1. 27m (12) Corner to lip, left and up to second lip.

  2. 27m (12) Slightly left through bulge to top.

FA: M.Clarbourgh & G.Owens, 1967

Trad 55m, 2 Blue Mountains
14 Loitering With Intent
1 25m
2 14 35m
3 14 40m
4 9 25m

Traverse.

Start: As for the Eyrie. Belay after 25m.

  1. 25m (-)

  2. 35m (14) Down, then right past carrot to belay on SI.

  3. 40m (14) Around nose, across TC and AfW to belay in CC.

  4. 25m (9) Finish up CC.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1985

Trad 130m, 4 Blue Mountains
13 Atlantis

Start: 'Arete' 2m right.

  1. 24m (-) 'Arete' to belay 3m left on block.

  2. 36m (13) Onto arete, then up right side on steep wall. Back to arete, through overhang to top.

FA: B.Postill & B.Crouch, 1969

Trad 60m, 2 Blue Mountains
11 Abseil Corner

Originally done in 3 pitches.

FA: G.Owens, B.Smith & J.Millar, 1967

Trad 34m Blue Mountains
19 Frank and Joe

Start: 3m right of AS.

FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1984

Trad 17m Blue Mountains
15 R Eagle Wall

Start: Wall right of AC.

FA: B.Postill & G.Wurth, 1969

Trad 40m Blue Mountains
17 Aceldama

Start: 20 left of AS.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1984

Trad 15m Blue Mountains
17 Scruffocide

35m left of 'Abseil Slab'.

Start: Slab.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1984

Trad 18m Blue Mountains
22 This Ain't Gardening

Possibly never repeated.

Start: 'Arete' and black slab right of giant roof.

FA: R.Young & M.Portman, 1994

Trad 45m Blue Mountains
20 Navel Excavator

15m (20 trad + carrots). Pull through the steep stuff and struggle onto the wall. A couple of good wires here or just run it out 5m to the next carrot then pumpilly up. Take big bolt plates as the carrot heads haven't been filed.

Start: Starts on the ledge above the big overhang on the north side of 'Abseil Gully'. Rap in (use a second rope) from the large expanse of bare rock off three carrots, clipping in to carrots on the way down. Put on clean undies. Belay on double rings.

FA: Smoothy & Bourne, 2005

Mixed trad 15m, 1 Blue Mountains

Showing all 18 routes.

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