Showing all 6 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | ★★★ Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks
One of the best routes at this grade in the whole Blue Mountains. Tackles the disconnected flake system up the centre of this awesome wall. Traditionally this route was led as a multi-pitch, with an initial awkward short trad pitch leading to a semi-hanging belay 10m off the ground. These days there is a bolted direct at grade 16 that allows pitches 1 & 2 to be combined when using a 60m rope and makes it 99% a sport route (compulsory #1 Camalot in the flake). No one does the garbage last pitch.
FFA: john smoothy mike law, 1984 FA: C.Martin & A.Penney, 1984 | 57m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★ Infant Terror
You need some trad for the section shared with SBaGA, after that it's all RBs. This route is set up to be done in 3 pitches, but is easily reduced to 2 pitches, or even just 1 pitch if you work out the admin (tie into both ends & drop one after the traverse, 70m rope minimum, 80m rope better). It's critical to avoid the rope-eating flake on SBaGA, if it gets your rope you can't continue (either a short roller draw on 2nd bolt above the flake, or heaps of extenders and back-flicking the rope). It'd be good if someone could bring a spanner to remove the 2 ugly coach screws below the traverse.
FA: A.Duckworth & P.Quach, 2002 | 45m, 3, 16 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 | ★★★ Spoilt Mercy (Link-up)
The free version of Sisters of Mercy linking the initial flake of Spoilt Brats into the top headwall of Sisters of Mercy via a thin traverse left. Simply brilliant sustained climbing on incredible rock. Mostly all ringbolts - but requires a #1 Camalot for the opening flake and a #2 and #3 for the headwall. Now has it's own lower-off. Long runners useful. | 32m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ||
23 M1 | ★★ Sisters of Mercy
Superseded by the Spoilt Mercy Linkup but listed here for historical value (and maybe the aid move can go free for someone so inclined?) Gain the ledge a few metres left of Spoilt Brats' 1st belay, either from Spoilt Brats, or by unprotected bridging for 8m up between the blank wall and tree (!). Follow three old carrots up the blank face (aid on the 2nd one to bypass blankness) then join into ringbolts up face left of Spoilt Brats. FA: G.Bradbury, 1987 | 30m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ||
17 | ★ Sleepwalk for the Low Time
Listed as "Sleepwalk for the Last Time" in the 2015 Carter guide, but that route was done 10 years earlier, is 5 grades harder, and it's traverse is 10-15m higher. Now listed separately as they sound like very different routes.
FFA: C Martin & J Smoothy, 1995 | 50m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
22 M0 | ★ Sleepwalk for the Last Time
This original version is mainly characterised by being a half-height traverse of the wall from Spoilt Brats left to the arête.
FA: C Martin & C Peisker, 1984 | 72m, 3, 5 | Blue Mountains |
Showing all 6 routes.