Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mt Boyce Browntown | ||||||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | ★ Good | Sat 30th Dec 2006 | ||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | ★ Good | Sun 6th Jun 2004 | ||||
needs a few dozen more ascents(a few with a hammer and a brush) and will be ace! Broke off 5 holds on the way! Get your belayer to wear a helmet!
|
||||||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | 2002 | |||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | Sat 13th Mar 2010 | |||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice - with Ramon Francis | 20m | Average | Thu 5th Jan 2017 | ||||
2 footers broke and took a fall!
|
||||||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | ★ Good | Mon 10th Apr 2017 | ||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | ★ Good | Fri 4th Aug 2017 | ||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | Wed 9th Feb 2022 | |||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | ★ Good | Wed 9th Feb 2022 | ||||
chossy jugs
|
||||||||
19 | ★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 20m | Crap | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | ||||
Rock quality is very low. Had a few holds break off and felt an overwhelming lack of confidence on the upper section with so many poor holds around. There are 2 lower offs on this route now
|
||||||||
23 | ★ Big in Japan | 25m | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
23 | ★ Big in Japan | 25m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★ Big in Japan | 25m | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | |||||
a lot easier than Pre-millenium tension
|
||||||||
23 | ★★ Pre-Millenium Tension | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
23 | ★★ Pre-Millenium Tension | 25m | 2002 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pre-Millenium Tension | 25m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pre-Millenium Tension | 25m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
23 | ★★ Pre-Millenium Tension | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | ||||
Hard start!
|
||||||||
28 | FA ★★ You Can Float | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Apr 2004 | ||||
27 | ★★ Mattie Potatie | 15m | 2002 | |||||
27 | FA ★★ Mattie Potatie | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
24 | FA ★★ The Big Lebowski | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
24 | ★★ The Big Lebowski | 15m | 2002 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Big Lebowski | 15m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Big Lebowski | 15m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Big Lebowski | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | ||||
24 | ★★ The Big Lebowski | 15m | Wed 17th Mar 2010 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Big Lebowski | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Mar 2019 | ||||
24 | ★★ The Big Lebowski | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Aug 2017 | ||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | ★ Good | Fri 21st Sep 2007 | ||||
pick of the bunch
|
||||||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Dec 2006 | ||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | FA ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | ★ Good | Sat 18th Dec 2004 | ||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | 2002 | |||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Apr 2007 | ||||
awesome moves. just when youve had enough adrenalin...you get jugs! what more can you want?
|
||||||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | Sat 13th Mar 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | ||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | Wed 17th Mar 2010 | |||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | Wed 9th Feb 2022 | |||||
22 | ★★ Xanthorrhoea Australis | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Feb 2022 | ||||
fantastic little corner/arete thing. good rock and not the sandbag it looks like
|
||||||||
22 22 X | Cheeky Thing | 8m | Average | Fri 21st Sep 2007 | ||||
average, one hard move
|
||||||||
22 | Cheeky Thing | 8m | Average | Sun 6th Jun 2004 | ||||
holds at the start are worn already. i broke 2 little ones off. Getting harder by the ascent!
|
||||||||
22 22 X | Cheeky Thing | 8m | Don't Bother | Mon 9th Apr 2007 | ||||
shitty
|
||||||||
22 22 X | Cheeky Thing | 8m | 2002 | |||||
22 22 X | Cheeky Thing | 8m | Average | Thu 12th Apr 2007 | ||||
one rather hard move then its over..
|
||||||||
22 22 X | Cheeky Thing | 8m | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
22 22 X | Cheeky Thing | 8m | Sat 13th Mar 2010 | |||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Don't Bother | Thu 6th May 2004 | ||||
harder than 19 start. Why didn't it go further? did you run out out of bolts?
|
||||||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | 2002 | |||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Average | Fri 21st Sep 2007 | ||||
Short
|
||||||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Average | Sat 30th Dec 2006 | ||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Don't Bother | Sun 25th Mar 2007 | ||||
Short
|
||||||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Average | Thu 12th Apr 2007 | ||||
one hard move then jugs then its over
|
||||||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | ★ Good | Sun 10th Oct 2004 | ||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Average | Mon 9th Apr 2007 | ||||
ok
|
||||||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Don't Bother | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Average | Sat 10th Apr 2010 | ||||
Short. weird.
|
||||||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | ★ Good | Sun 17th Apr 2011 | ||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Sat 13th Mar 2010 | |||||
19 | Blinded by the Light | 8m | Wed 17th Mar 2010 | |||||
Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||||
22 | ★★ La Nina | 58m, 1 | Wed 28th Aug 2013 | |||||
22 | ★★ La Nina - with Alie Repetto | 58m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Jan 2017 | ||||
A good tradventure. It goes hard, scary, then glorious. First pitch is probably the best "climbing pitch", the start is a single hard pull (hard), followed by nice thin crack (still hard). Pitch two is virtually a solo, very little gear and lots of average rock (not terrible but definitely not great). Pitch 3 is awesome, another hard pull over the lip and the coolest, easy lay back crack (most enjoyable part of the climb, easily). If doing it again I'd take at least doubles of 0.3-0.5 (maybe a few C3s as well), and a single set up to 3 (nothing bigger) and a single set of nuts.
P1: dog
P2: OS
P3: OS
Oh, and the bush bash out was horrific, we definitely missed whatever track there is supposed to be. Bush swimming more like it.
|
||||||||
22 | ★★ La Nina - with Ro-boat | 58m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Jan 2017 | ||||
Such a fun climb! Starting the first pitch is super tricky.
2nd pitch is fun, easy but slim pickings for gear, a few foot holds broke off.
3rd pitch is where this climb is at, strong move on suspiciously loose holds to pull the rooflet then enjoyable laybacks to the top
|
||||||||
22 | ★★ La Nina - with Heath Black | 58m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Jan 2019 | ||||
A very good outing. The start is stiff for the grade, like a hard Frog Buttress 22. I fell off it a couple of times and handed the line to tradgod Neilio After that it backs right off. Second pitch is a very nice corner then left wall. Didn't find it chossy or run out (contrary to other comments). Last pitch is fun and cruisy. Take a couple of yellow and red alien size cams for the first pitch.
|
||||||||
22 | ★★ La Nina | 58m, 1 | ★ Good | Sat 26th Jan 2019 | ||||
Two bumblies go trad climbing on aussie day! P1 2nd clean after falling off the start once. This pitch is hard and super good. P2 OS Pretty average and not much gear. P3 2nd shot after pumping off the start, not very interesting. Best way to enjoy this route is rap off the tat after P1. Classic if only climbing P1 and you don't have to bush bash off the top.
|
||||||||
22 | ★★ La Nina - with james castrission | 58m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Dec 2012 | ||||
22 | ★★ La Nina - with Ben Sanford | 58m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Sep 2021 | ||||
A brilliant and very worthy mini tradventure. I fell off straight away at the start of pitch one, came down from the first piece of gear, ditched most of the rack because it weighed so much, and fired it off. Such a classic and quite feisty pitch, felt quite 23 honestly. Second pitch was a fun ramble, I broke off an enormous footer though and went for an unexpected and exciting one arm dangle. Pitch three is also great; a novel roof crack to start and pleasant layback to finish. Doubles (or triples!!) to 0.5 and singles above that seemed like a good rack. Wires were helpful too. Barely need any quickdraws, maybe four regular ones and two extenders for the roof on pitch three. You can also take one bolt bracket for the belay at the end of pitch two, but it probably isn't necessary. The bush bash off the top also wasn't too bad, definitely faster than trying to rap and walk out normally.
|
||||||||
22 | ★★ La Nina - with Seth | 58m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Sep 2023 | ||||
22 | ★★ La Nina - with James Collins | 58m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Oct 2023 | ||||
My fingers hurt!!!
|
||||||||
25 | ★★★ Iron Curtain (Unnamed Roof Crack) - with james castrission | 58m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 16th Jan 2013 | ||||
Iron Curtain. (10m left of la Nina). The 1st pitch starts with a steep, thin finger crack to a ledge then up through a stellar horizontal roof crack. AWESOME climbing, funky moves (Grade 25- five stars, trad).
The 2nd pitch is on some old carrots and is an interesting mixed pitch at 21 ending in a brilliant splitter crack. Four stars.
The 3rd pitch another 21 on a bullet hard, steep, orange rock with a number of hand placed carrots. Three stars.
The new route is aptly called "Iron Curtain", a vestige of another era... |
||||||||
25 | ★★★ Iron Curtain - with Rene Provis | 58m, 10 | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | |||||
Can confirm this is definitely not 23 (25 per Hugh Ward’s description). Especially the overhanging tight finger crack boulder start with no feet (nuts and a 0.1). Bailed from the roof as it was taking too long
|
||||||||
24 M1 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
Match, Simmo
1
24 M1
2
21
3
21
| 58m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | ||||
A genuinely mega trad route, that should be on everyone's "classic cracks" list. The roof of the first pitch is all-time mega steep crack climbing, with great gear, and stacked moves all the way to the anchor. And yes, Anton Korsun they're actual crack moves
The 2nd pitch has a scary start, but otherwise is great crack climbing. I linked the pitch into the top pitch (which was rather gnarly, having only brought 3 bolt plates). Pitch 3 has a very hard start through a rooflet, followed by pleasant facey rambling. IMHO, I'd suggest continuing up the grey slab to the top, rather than traversing out left to carrots. (I did the traverse, and just found it contrived.) Regarding my 24M1 grading on P1: I never managed to do 1 move off the ground (between the slippery righthand crimp, and the first tight fingerlock -which I can only just fit back-3 1-pad in with careful placement- with no feet) so climbed with the left hand pre-set-up, then up to the top (hence a point of aid off the ground). I'm not sure whether the collapse of the foot pedestal at the base of the route may be a factor, or whether I just have to concede that the start is too thin/hard for me. Regardless, doing it with a point of aid off the ground was still great climbing I had some bad luck on the rest of the First pitch; breaking off a key hold, pinching a nerve in my hand so bad I had to drop off to recover, and taking a gear-ripping fall at one point. As such, my ascent was far from perfect style. Still, the fact I totally rate this crack despite these setbacks, is a testament to how good it is |
||||||||
25 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
1
2
3
| 58m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Aug 2023 | ||||
Brilliant route from James and Hugh! Deserves a whole lot more attention than it gets. With this, Harbinger, and La Niña, Boyce Town has some of the best under appreciated cracks in the mountains. Second go on the first pitch and then onsighted the upper two pitches linked together with Paul belaying on the ground. The first pitch is an amazing roof crack at about 24 that is unfortunately guarded by a pretty hard boulder off the ground (I do not know what grade it is). This should however not put you off! With one aid move or climbing in via a bolt to the left you can access the amazing upper crack which really is rad, or just do the move. The upper pitches are a bit shit and on shit bolts; either very old carrots or stainless bash ins. I wouldn’t really recommend bothering to do them. I didn’t enjoy the climbing and thought it was kinda dangerous; probably takes away from the quality of the first pitch. A much better thing to do would be to step right and finish up La Niña for sustained trad radness (or lower off). Because of rope drag and gear and general shitness and so I could rap clean the route, after pulling the steep section on the top pitch I climbed direct up the grey jugs instead of traversing left to the snappy orange rock for the last few metres. I think this makes the climbing less offensive and allows you to get to the tree belay on top in a way that means you can easily belay or rap. You can rap from this tree to the anchor at the top of the first pitch on a 70m.
|
||||||||
25 |
★★★ Iron Curtain P1
- with
Rick
1
| 58m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | ||||
Pitch 1 only. Fantastic climb! My average sausage fingers could only juuuussst fit in the second lock at a precise angle, when I worked that out it was fairly easy to get through first crux. Second crux at exit went really well but I had to grunt.
|
||||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room | 26m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Feb 2019 | ||||
Borderline classic. 2 shots. Had the beta for crux dialed but then tried what looked like neil's easier beta, no go when you dont have the span of an albatross.
|
||||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room | 26m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Mar 2019 | ||||
1st shot today. Feet blew right at the crux and just caught the jug. Great route.
|
||||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room | 26m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Mar 2019 | ||||
Nice eod warm down. Bit tricky at the first lip but really fun and interesting climbing above. The top headwall is mega but I feel like I cheated out left of the bolts a little.
|
||||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room - with Ben Jenga | 26m | Sun 31st Mar 2019 | |||||
Me to tired
|
||||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room | 26m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Feb 2022 | ||||
Wow. Intimidating roofs are tamed by the presence of buckets. The face climbing is just as good and makes for a great mix of climbing. None of the moves seemed hard but its somewhat sustained? Need another lap up it!
|
||||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room | 26m | ★ Good | Sun 13th Mar 2022 | ||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room - with Wojjy | 26m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Mar 2022 | ||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room — 2 attempts | 26m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | ||||
Great! Not too hard at the grade, but bloody awesome. The low crux is just fun, but everything above it is mega at about gr23. Great rock, and pretty sustained. Might be my favourite route here.
|
||||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room | 26m | Tue 15th Aug 2023 | |||||
On the warm up!
This climb is excellent. Lil bit go go stop however the head wall rock quality is delicious |
||||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room | 26m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room | 26m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Apr 2024 | ||||
25 | ★★ Rolls Boyce | 37m | Mon 11th Mar 2019 | |||||
False start 1. Couldnt get past the 1st bolt. Broken hold?
|
||||||||
25 | ★★ Rolls Boyce | 37m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | ||||
25 | ★★ Rolls Boyce - with Heath Black | 37m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Mar 2024 | ||||
A bit bouldery at the start, then strap in for the grand journey above
|
||||||||
24 Hard | ★★ Bad Boyce Bad Boyce - with Match, Paul Frothy Thomson | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 20th Jul 2023 | ||||
Fell in da crux at the lip, pulled back on and did the crux to the top. Suuuuper cool.
|
||||||||
24 | FA ★★ Bad Boyce Bad Boyce | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 13th Jul 2023 | ||||
Coukd be hard at the grade. Hilarious roof jugging, to gnarly lip-turn traversing. Loooong.
|
||||||||
24 ~25 | ★★ Bad Boyce Bad Boyce - with Luke Hef | 35m | ★ Good | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | ||||
24 | ★★ Bad Boyce Bad Boyce - with James Collins | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Oct 2023 | ||||
This is wild, end of the day burn, climbed to the crux,sat and then free to the top. All time for 24!!
|
||||||||
24 | ★★ Bad Boyce Bad Boyce - with julian reinhold | 35m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Nov 2023 | ||||
One of the best routes I have tried here so far. Dropped it on the crux mid-route. Enjoyed the starting moves, and all the fun features. Sharp buckets got my fingers bleeding when I fell. Will be back.
|
||||||||
24 | ★★ Bad Boyce Bad Boyce | 35m | Tue 20th Feb 2024 | |||||
funny roof and nice scoopy headwall
|
||||||||
25 | ★★ Boyce Light Up | 30m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Mar 2019 | ||||
Punted the crux move on the Onsight, came down, untied and did the route.
Not that hard at 5 but well worth the admin at the start (which was fine)
The water runnel above is all time.
|