Ascents in Pierces Pass West Side

With Dude - horror walk out to road at night with one torch and misty drizzle

Epic walk in and walk out, amazing position, two scary shale traverses, one to remember!

Just over an hour from the carpark to base of cliff with some serious bush bashing. The scrambling to get to the base of the climbing is, in itself, actual climbing as well! I lead pitches 1, 3, 4. Ben lead the others with much froth. Rad day and big TRADventure. Ended up missing the correct abseil when walking off the top to come back down. We landed ourselves in Yileen Gully and canyoned our way out fishing the day with a 60m waterfall abseil. YEWWW!!!

Sketchy as - everything felt like it might snap off. Love a loose chunk of sandstone.👌

Shale ledge I near crapped my pants on. Had to be hauled arse up to a shithouse hanging belay.🤙

Up to the roof across on my knees painful as all hell being dragged across as second. Got to the small belay ledge which felt like my feet could have a bloody holiday. (Every other belay ledge was a freaking sketchy arse hanging off rock)

Can't remember what happened here but it sucked.

Hanging on crappy belay ledge again if you can call it that to do a nice stretchy move traverse to the right which was horrible or maybe im just too short whilst being pulled across the traverse feeling like id flip out off the corner and around the arete.

Overall ok climb but horrible to get out of. Found the descent gully. Tried to abseil down but 60m rope didn't reach. Had to reassess and hold on for dear life whilst retying rope onto a closer tree to get a few more metres in order to reach the ground.

Overall scary as hell climb for me as second!

awsome day out! first pitch has poor rock quality but it improves after that, though still be mindfull. opted to walk out takeing around 1.4 hours

One of the most consistent carck corners I’ve seen around mountains. Some xantaria jugs on the approach pitch and soft rock, amazing adventure overall. Bring your goggles

A canyon and choss adventure day. Left car park at 745. Scrambled with much sketch up a landslide gully, hugged the cliff, negotiated an approach pitch that i dived into a little too hastily at about 920. The route in general is probably more aesthetic than it is good in movement but certainly has its moments going through the many roof traverses. Climbing generally gets better with height which was nice. Probably nothing harder than gr18 but the grade probably reflects the need to have quite a good temprament under big easy runouts and most importantly, the ability to discern between good holds and landmines. Yim got a head jam in p5 that he insisted on a photo of. Finished climbing at 2, somehow only made the car at 5 after a couple raps, a skinny dip in the creek and alot of swearing at broken branches. Then to cap it off a red belly black arked up at yim 50m from the carpark.

10/10 Choss. Crux move probably on pitch 2. Generally eats bigger gear, you wouldn’t be mad about taking 5 and/or 6. Long bush bash back to Bells line.

Hideously bad. A disgusting bush-bashing wall-of-tree approach only sets the stage to this chossy, vegetated, dirty, mossy disaster. Probably the worst trad climb I've ever done. I don't actually know anyone I hate enough to send up this climb. Every pitch has about 5-10m of good climbing, surrounded by 35-40m of atrocious rubbish. Climbed on one of the hottest days of the year (at least this route is in the shade, I guess). Onsight all Even Pitches, Clean 2nd all Odd Pitches. P1 - Vertical gardening with the odd bit of loose rock thrown in for good measure; P2 - Extremely loose and vegetated vertical dirt/shrub climbing with minimal protection. The last 10m or so up the clean layback crack is okay; P3 - Shale start to dirt and vegetation, with some okay (through loose) climbing above through a series of bulges; P4 - Deathly moves through a barely protected shale roof, then up a pleasant steep (though friable) corner-crack; P5 - Great stemming with minimal protection marred by vegetated pox, leading to chossy rock through the roof (though the exposed chimneying moves are cool), and culminating with repellent dirt/vegation/moss/snappy corner-crack climbing above; P6 - The single worst pitch I've ever climbed in my life. Almost unprotectable vertical gardening up disintegrating vegetation and mud, broken up only by snappy, dirty, mossy rock.

FFA. Has all those ingredients you want in a Pierces Pass multipitch. Some adventure, some easier climbing, some harder climbing, all well-protected on U-bolts but with a feeling of growing intensity as you get higher. If you've not been to this wall before, it's around 25 mins walk-in from the carpark to the base of the route, mostly on an excellent track (see Bladderhozen approach notes in guide). Climb, rap back down, walk out. Or combine with The Iron Throne or Bladderhozen for more sport pitch fun in the same zone.

The good bits were really good, the bad bits were really bad... so: standard blueys sport multi, then?

Proper humid conditions today meant gallons of sweat.

P1 was kinda junk, with lots of loose rock and about 5m of good climbing, but I'm happy to take it as the price of admission.

P2 was a fairly pleasant slab with an interesting start, thin finish, and inoffensive easy middle.

P3 (2nd shot pink point) was rad varied steep face climbing. Fairly sustained at 24 with a hard crux down low to earn 25. Would be classic as a single pitch anywhere else. On my onsight, I couldnt get on the mid-crux draw, and ended up whipping back to the belay!

P4 (10 milionth shot red point) has a hideously nails start boulder to gain the stance below roof (the hardest move on the entire route for me... took me about 15 shots to stick it, made harder when I broke off one of the key holds). Then a wild boulder througbh a body length roof 100m off the deck (took me 3 shots to stick it), with a few punchy moves after turning the lip. Unfortunately, everythimg above this point is hideous sand, and I did not enjoy it. Full disclosure: after sticking the initial boulder, i didnt lower back to the belay to send the pitch properly after figuring out the roof sequence, I just went from thr no-hands rest below the roof (3m up from the belay).

I think the grades are bang-on. I reckon P4 would feel 25 in anything less than a billion percent humidity, though in today's conditions it felt every bit a 26

All in all, though, a worthy day out, just one I'm not in a hurry to repeat. We did it in about 7 hours car to car (including the redpointing of the pitcheS).

A thoroughly adventurous sport route. The middle 2 pitches are fantastic. Pitch one is best approached as access pitch to the climbing proper. I'm still traumatised from offering Monty a catch on the last pitch, trying to interpret whether the vague rope jerks were an attempt to use our '2 tug = take and start lowering' communication system, or if it was drag, or wind, or a feeble attempt to clip and not whip into space. Have some means of subliminal communication sorted people! So much type 2 fun was had today

Adventurous is the right description only because contrary to the description, the rock is not that solid, especially in the corner. The flake/pillar in the corner feels like it would pull off without too much effort. Funny position for the belay bolts at the end of the first pitch. Nonetheless a nice addition to Bladderhozen. We have to go back to do the rest.

We got on this thinking it was the iron throne. First pitch is a pile of choss featuring a nice fridge sized death block ready to pop out. 2nd and 3rd pitch are quality though on great rock. We bailed before the final pitch, was able to get to the belay for pitch 2 rapping on double 60s from the top of pitch 3.

P1 Clean 2nd, P2 - redpoint, P3 Clean 2nd, P4 - Redpoint (OS past the first bolt). Awesome new multi-pitch. P2 Crux is just nasty, took me many attempts before working it out. P3 - Fun, balancy. P4 - Hard start then awesome varied climbing that goes on forever with a few more hard moves to keep the pump burning. The double knee bar saved me. Only complaints would be some of the rock is Mega sharp and P2 crux feels a bit out of place with the easy climbing that surrounds it. Hard 23 maybe 24?

With Claire. A far superior multi than its neighbours ( Bladderhozen and Church of the Seven Samurai ). Sections of mixed rock quality, but pretty standard for Pierces Pass multi. Clean 2nd P1 - An easy access pitch with some dubious rock; Onsight P2 - Long, grade 21 technical face climbing, with a pretty gnarly boulder-problem at about half-height, most of which I dyno'd past; Clean 2nd P3 - Very sustained and varied face climbing, with quite a few really tricky, complex moves; Onsight P4 - A hard move off the belay, then pleasant face to a rest. Followed by all out pump-city with lots of tricky moves, and a very powerful crux. I only JUST onsighted this, I was so pumped on the top jugs (my knees dont fit in the kneebar!) that my hands were opening even as I launched myself over the top. Definitely 24! Lots of well positioned bolts make this accessible and worthwhile.

I led pitch 1 n 2. Ramon 3 n 4. I fell on pitch 2 pulled back on and went to the anchors. Seconded Clean pitch 3 and was stuffed by pitch 4. Awesome climb and position

Apart from the move off the ledge of choss on pitch 2 and the slimper at the start of pitch 4 that was impossible to hold in today's airless heat, and some pretty horrible rock in parts this was good. The final pitch is de.finitely the best. Led p2,3 and 4

Unable finish last pitch duo to overheating my body 35 Celsius and no wind bailed 3 bolt from anchor sustained pumpy pitch will go back

Important shade after 12pm!

Great climb, pitch 2 is probably tricky at the grade. Pitch 4 is great. Got all the moves but too pumpy for me to link them all.

Heaps of loose rock on the way up but the 4th pitch is a good reason for climbing it ... beautiful. Tricky abseiling as the last pitch is in a steepnes and you need a fix rope from 3rd belay.

Brilliant climb. Was in the shade by 10am when we started, back to the ground in under 3 hours.

Awesome one to do as a sport-multi summer afternoon combined with Bladderhozen as they are virtually side by side.

I climbed all the pitches except the last as it started bucketing.

Felt really challenging for the grades provided. However the climbing is exceptional!

Well Bolted.

Climbed on a 70m rope and 60m pull cord.

Lowered comfortably off the chains of the 4th pitch back to the ledge.

Then 1 rap to the ground.

Will be back for this!

only got 1 and 3 pitch clean. will have to come back to it. really cool sequence 2nd pitch and epic pumpfest 4th

only got 1 and 3 pitch clean. will have to come back to it. really cool sequence 2nd pitch and epic pumpfest 4th

only got 1 and 3 pitch clean. will have to come back to it. really cool sequence 2nd pitch and epic pumpfest 4th

only got 1 and 3 pitch clean. will have to come back to it. really cool sequence 2nd pitch and epic pumpfest 4th

A great route for a half day of climbing. Challenging pitch 2 and 4, and to me the crux sequence of pitch two was the hardest climbing of the whole route. Ended up doing the pitches a little out of order as I didn't get pitch two on the first try. After onsighting pitch 4 I figured I should have another attempt on pitch two while rapping back down.

Pitch 4 was hard off the belay but then ended up being very juggy climbing, to a finish with large moves between ledges in a great position.

Repeat, leading oposite pitches than last time. Pitch 2 is still the crux pitch. Really enjoyed pitch 3 this time.

2nded VW up first two ptches in one 60m pitch. 3rd and 4th pitch looked steep and chossy. Rapped off!