Ascents in War Babies Wall having Beta

The removed bolt needs to be replaced to avoid the 10 metre run out in the middle. But it's a pretty average climb anyway, don't bother.

Helps if you remember to bring cams

Did it clean until one move below the top; slightly sweaty fingers slipped off an edge. Bugger.

Sport, sort of if you like 8m run outs after the ledge. With Rick.

better climbs here, ok warmup

ONly to ledge. Guide says lower off but none there. Had to use Pluck a Duck

Runout but sweet !

Worth a smiley I thought especially for the mixed climbing.

Does anyone go to the top?

enjoy hospital if you fall before the first bolt

needs rebolting to modernise this route. No one should die on a 17 at Shipley

no half way chains (as 98 guidebook indicates)

Chris runout to crap chains

Borrowed trad gear and hauled it up to the ledge to finish this route. Needs a bolt at the start and either rings on the ledge or another bolt or two on the headwall. Route is listed as sport carrots in the 2010 guide. Defnitely needs gear.

A bit bold without supplemental gear. Bring a few medium cams for the good slots above the halfway ledge (say, BD #0.75?).

Ensure you have some trad gear. Climbing it as a sport climb is pretty sketch as the first bolt is about 5M up.

Absolutely terrifying finding that there 'used' to be a bolt... The guide book didnt have this critical info and Im glad it was only a 17. Still, great climb!

This is an enjoyable route. I enjoyed placing some cams and was reminded that shipley was once a mixed crag. Times have changed, but I appreciated this remaining token mixed route.

If in doubt, run it out

mixed, huh? I guess that makes sense. climbed as a sport route with a death runout

The climbing itself is fine, with decent breaks for cams. The fixed gear is a bit of a worry though. No visible epoxy on the 4 carrots and I wasn't game to rap/lower off the single rusty quicklink on the anchor.

Ha ha, sent dave up this without consulting guide. He felt it was run out.

Just on the bolts.

Noticed the carrots had been replaced with rings and thought I'd see if it'd been retrobolted. It hasn't. A sport climb for people OK with free soloing. Still a decent climb.

Whoops forgot the rack

Did with no gear, run outs are fairly easy climbing for a tall person

Nicer than the other one. But not worth carrying gear for

Thought I was on the sport route next to it and did wonder why it was so run out. Oops.

Didn't read much about it, probably should've because I basically soloed half of it. Oops

Got halfway up and then realised it was a mixed route 🙃

Bring cams.

Managed QuickDraws and one nut to stop the 12m ground fall, didn’t realise it was a mixed route luckily had some nuts handy 😬 pretty scary without

was i supposed to bring trad gear? solid and comitting.

pluck you

short. big ground fall until second bolt (some 8m off the deck)

Chris

Moist

climbs much better than it looks

Nothing memorable about this climb.

Stupid bolting

may as well rebolt this one too

Nice moves.

Pleasant but short

Quite good. Couple of cruxy moves. With Sean.

Great warm up climb.

started this climb a little docile but was quickly awoken with a couple of unexpected moves for a 17

Fun 17 if only it were longer

I liked this. The start is a little tricky and there are a couple of tough moves to start, but I think I can get this within a few shots.

Feeling a little better about the start. This will definitely go.

Pleasant and short. Seemed a tad soft to me.

Nice warm up route, nice climbing

Bit wet but nice nonetheless

Good warmup option