Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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23 | ★★ Let's Nail God | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Fri 1st Sep 2006 | ||||
23 | ★★ Let's Nail God | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Feb 2006 | ||||
Susatined. rebolted so not scary or run out now.
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23 | ★ Disaster Area | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 1st Nov 2003 | ||||
too thin. numerous rests.
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23 | ★ Wagget & Wegnut | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 20th Mar 2005 | ||||
hard section at bracket, not much for the feet there!
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23 | ★ Disaster Area | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
23 | Truckstop Lawyers | 20m | Blue Mountains | Average | Wed 28th Apr 2004 | ||||
sharp down low, sandy up high...lovely!
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23 | ★★ Tips for Troubadours - with Paul Bridges | 30m | Blue Mountains | Sat 11th May 1996 | |||||
23 | ★ Disaster Area | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Wed 14th Apr 1993 | |||||
23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Jan 2014 | ||||
Intimidating! Monstrously steep. Clean to the crux move (turning the lip) and then I got scared! A few rests to figure out the crux move, then clean to the top. The lower section is scary rock and gear, but as the climb improves so does the gear. Delicate technical climbing under the roof and arete to the waco, then exposed strenuous crux. The vegetation isn't as bad as it looks. You can thank me for the chalk on the hard-to-spot crucual hold to gain the crux. I WILL be back for the send!
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23 | ★ Disaster Area | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Jun 2014 | ||||
23 | ★ Disaster Area | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Sun 14th Sep 2014 | |||||
23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Jul 2017 | ||||
Alright, so maybe it was a bit ambitious to try and tick this in the afternoon after ticking Grasshopper. With 3 hours daylight left I launched up this. Fell off at the main crux (and chucked a spaz after a particularly painful, gear-ripping fall which damaged my glasses). Found my sequence and went to the top. The roof of this is WAY more vegetated than when I tried this last 4 years ago (and I pulled out mountains of shrubbery back then too!), and I managed to rip out a tonne of vegetation on lead (got pretty pumped too!) mid-roof. This is a great, intimidating route with a hard and committing crux, but the first 6m of death shale is bloody horrible.
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23 | ★ Disaster Area | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 9th Jul 2017 | ||||
All quite continuously thin and challenging, but probably very doable ONCE the draws are on (badly positioned carrots on a slab of this difficulty and thinness are hideous)... with the exception of a single utterly desperate move that I couldn't QUITE link into the full crux sequence, but didn't want to spend too much time trying. These sorts of thin slabs are so worn these days, that they are surely grades harder than they were when the FA was done... Maybe another day. Definitely feels possible...
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23 | ★ Disaster Area | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Sun 13th Aug 2017 | |||||
Balls hard at 3rd bolt If you're a slab master that likes to pull on half pad sloper edges then get on it.
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23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising | 50m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 26th Aug 2017 | ||||
BETA SPOILERS AHEAD ->
You've seen the photos, you've heard the stories: this line looks amazing. The moment you see that corner leading into an exposed roof traversing into the abyss you are left with mixed feelings of intimidation and excitement. The next moment, when you are tied in at the bottom staring at the first 3m of choss, that has no doubt changed forms since the first ascent, it leaves you with second thoughts, and third thoughts. Once I built up the courage (read: stupidity) to swim through to the first solid hold, the corner and roof are pleasant, besides the jungle feel of reaching around ferns to place gear and to dig out holds. It just adds to the climb's uniqueness, I suppose. I reach the end of the roof (gr 21-22 till here, minus the choss start), place two bomber pieces, and reach round for what I was always hoping to be a jug. To my surprise it was huge. But, a jug to no where. Without the crucial pieces to protect the next section (#0.5 BD) and the prospect of my rope running over the arete and slicing in two (https://tinyurl.com/ycues8g3), I embraced defeat...I lowered down, to then jumar back up and aid past the crux to free (read: flail) to the top in approach shoes with entries catching on the shale ledges. I suppose if you worked out the crux, heightened your risk tolerance to welcome choss piles of death and don't mind jungle fever, then give it a go!
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23 | ★★ Bad Moon Rising - with zachary vertrees, Vince | 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th May 2019 | ||||
Had been saving this one for far too long , and Vinnie was psyched for it so I joined in, somebody had to clean it after all ...
Enjoyable climbing up to the roof that lulls you into a false sense of difficulty before suddenly turning up a notch at the lip ... bit of flash/cleaning pump and bad hand placement caught me out on the first shot but then climbed through ... Great route, will be back for the full tick soon .. |
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23 | ★ Disaster Area - with Lisa Vitaris | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | ||||
Hard then harder!! Difficult clips and a cool home made looking peg banged into a drilled hole. Not great in the hot afternoon sun and you need to make sure you're on top of your slab climbing game!
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23 | ★★ Let's Nail God | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th May 2020 | ||||
23 | ★ Disaster Area - with Megan Turton | 15m, 5 | Blue Mountains | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | |||||
Mere mortals will prefer to bring the aid ladders and a handkerchief. Afternoon sun is definitely not the beta
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22 | ★ Monty Madness | 10m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 20th Mar 2005 | ||||
broke a hold off below the ring. Left a good side pull edge to get onto arete! Might be easier now.
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22 | ★ Fashion TV | 14m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Dec 2006 | ||||
should have taken the mad taffy traverse to the arette, pumped at the anchor.
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22 | ★ Monty Madness | 10m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 25th Dec 2006 | ||||
Still no luck!
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22 | ★ Monty Madness | 10m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 25th Dec 2006 | ||||
Dogging deluxe. Up by any means possible.
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22 | ★ Fashion TV | 14m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 19th Feb 2006 | ||||
pumpy at the end of the day.
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22 | ★ Monty Madness | 10m | Blue Mountains | Average | Tue 30th Dec 2008 | ||||
Hurt my ankle falling on this one. Tricky finish.
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive - with John Croker | 27m | Blue Mountains | Tue 31st Dec 1996 | |||||
22 |
★★ Cheap Skate
1
| 20m | Blue Mountains | Sat 18th Jan 2014 | |||||
Kinda destroyed me, but maybe I was having a bad day? Pulled up on one move after falling on it several times. Just not my style of climbing but a good experience overall.
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22 | ★★ Cheap Skate | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Jul 2019 | ||||
22 | ★ Monty Madness - with Vicky Chen | 10m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 8th Dec 2019 | ||||
part of mission: arete climbing
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive - with Abi Prakash | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | ||||
Super route. Well bolted, got stumped after the huecos briefly. Found the static finish and an alternative throw finish
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22 | ★★ Cheap Dive | 27m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th May 2022 | ||||
stuck the low crux but broke a hold. Don't worry, there are plenty of better holds around at that point.
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22 | ★ Monty Madness - with Galen | 10m | Blue Mountains | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | |||||
Next time!
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20 21 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Jan 2008 | ||||
great clean grippy rock... fun climbing
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21 | ★ SF | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Feb 2006 | ||||
21 | ★ Unknown 1 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 28th Jan 2006 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | Thu 1st Jun 2006 | |||||
20 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 10th Sep 2005 | ||||
Hard - a long person's climb. The crux v balancy and technical.
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21 | ★ Urako | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Feb 2006 | ||||
dangerous until rebolted. great moves in a short climb. lower offs would be good.
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20 21 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Mar 2004 | ||||
21 | ★ Urako | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Feb 2006 | ||||
Dirty, needed rebolting
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21 | ★ Catweazel | 15m | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★ The Mighty Quinn | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Oct 2007 | ||||
2nding moneith & simey carter. awesome & pumpy, felt harder than 21, but maybe thats from 48 hours of no sleep & a massive hangover?? ill be back to lead this one
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20 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★ Catweazel | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sat 12th Jul 2008 | ||||
21 | ★★ The Mighty Quinn | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Jan 2004 | ||||
sustained, steep and airy! Don't do what I did and hang around for ages looking for rests: there aren't any!
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21 | ★★ The Mighty Quinn | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Feb 2006 | ||||
Nice Sandbag Bundy, harder than 20!
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20 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Sun 13th Oct 2002 | |||||
First section only. Almost got it clean, but got stuck at one spot in the middle
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20 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Aug 2009 | ||||
18 21 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag (Dress Rehearsal Rag - 1st Pitch) | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
21 | ★ Catweazel | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
21 | ★ Urako | 12m | Blue Mountains | Mon 1st May 2006 | |||||
21 | ★ Urako | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd Feb 2006 | ||||
18 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag - 1st Pitch | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Tue 10th Jan 2012 | |||||
Argh sharp on finger tips but well worth perservering. Numerous holds taken. Balancey. Got to trust your feet.
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21 | ★ Catweazel | 15m | Blue Mountains | Sat 14th Mar 1992 | |||||
21 | ★ Army Exercises | 15m, 3 | Blue Mountains | Sat 11th May 1996 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Mar 2011 | ||||
03 March 2011. I seem to remember one crux section after you first move out right, where two specific moves had me completely stumped. Amazing top section under the huge flakes.
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21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | Wed 1st May 2013 | |||||
17 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag - 1st Pitch | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Sun 22nd Sep 2013 | |||||
Lovely, tricky start with poor hands
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21 | ★ Urako | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 6th Oct 2013 | ||||
Felt like it was VERY hard for the grade, dogged it quite hard. In the end I suspect it's just one of those routes that once you know all the moves it goes at 21, but as there are a lot of holds that look good and aren't and that you can't see from below, it's incredibly hard to onsight.
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21 | ★ SF | 12m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Sep 2013 | ||||
Big John's Buck's night. Lots o' fun. Desperate.
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22 21 | ★★ The Mighty Quinn | 15m | Blue Mountains | Mon 24th Feb 2014 | |||||
22 in Bluies Guide, Probably only a 21 without the DRR(17) pitch. Only gave it one shot, next time.
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21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | Mon 3rd Nov 2014 | |||||
7/9
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21 | ★★ Geezer Pleaser | 30m | Blue Mountains | Mon 3rd Nov 2014 | |||||
8/9-Great climb
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21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | ||||
Great climb, technical moves. Love the ones where you can't read it straight away
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20 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Thu 26th Apr 2018 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th Jul 2018 | ||||
17 21 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag (Dress Rehearsal Rag - 1st Pitch) | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Sun 31st Mar 2019 | |||||
Crimpy.
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22 21 | ★★ The Mighty Quinn - with Tim | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th May 2019 | ||||
come on, this is 22 in the latest book. Awesome pitch, well worth doing, but I was real pumped and had a fall at the top...
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21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Oct 2019 | ||||
The strong wind and belaying got to me and missed the onsight cool climb, tricky mantle!
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22 | ★★ The Mighty Quinn | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Jun 2020 | ||||
Solid heel hooks through roof! thin head wall
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22 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Jun 2020 | ||||
Tough moves!
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21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes - with Mira | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 3rd Nov 2020 | |||||
21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 20th May 2021 | ||||
Really nice moves, though provoking. Had it sorted by ran out of light.
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21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes - with Abi Prakash | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | ||||
Bit of a heated adventure. Not the straightforward 21 I wanted to cap off the day in the sun. Keen to try it again in shade. I thought the mossy route out left looked better than the blank wall to carrots but ended up backtracking
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21 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | Average | Fri 15th Apr 2022 | ||||
This route is getting old and painful... just like my joints ;-)
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21 | ★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag | 35m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | ||||
so much of the doogs
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21 | ★★ Geezer Pleaser - with Derek Lai | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Jan 2023 | ||||
Beautiful climbing. There is just one section on a tiny crimp that have you out of balance that prevented me from the send.
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21 | ★★ The Mighty Quinn | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Jan 2023 | ||||
21 ~22 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes — 2 attempts - with Davide L | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Thu 28th Dec 2023 | ||||
Very cruxy above third bolt and not too fun. Great up the top though.
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21 Hard | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes - with kat.bambu | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Dec 2023 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Feb 2024 | ||||
Very nice climb, a couple of cruxy technical moves, pretty sustained.
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21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes | 30m | Blue Mountains | Tue 16th Apr 2024 | |||||
Super reachy if your short...
Can protect the start sort of with 0.5 or 0.4 cam
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21 Hard | ★★ The Mighty Quinn | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Thu 25th Apr 2024 | ||||
20 | ★ Knot the Mumma | 15m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Jul 2019 | ||||
19 | ★ Grouchie (Groucho) | 18m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Dec 2008 | ||||
Fell at anchors !
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19 | ★★ Black Bart | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 27th Aug 2006 | ||||
Fell off at the top!
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19 | ★ Grouchie (Groucho) | 18m | Blue Mountains | Sun 11th Jan 2004 | |||||
AI sport lead. Juggy but pumpy! One rest near top.
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19 | ★ Grouchie (Groucho) | 18m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jun 2003 | ||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
ahhh! foot popped off as i was balancing up to the jug @ the last draw fantastic climbing!!!!!
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19 | ★★ Black Bart | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | Sun 28th Apr 2013 | |||||
19 | ★ Grouchie | 18m | Blue Mountains | Average | Sat 8th Mar 2014 | ||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 18th Jun 2017 | ||||
Cool moves! A bit overhung (surprisingly), which definitely made for some flash pump.
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19 | ★★ Black Bart - with David Shapira | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Mar 2018 | ||||
Really nice moves, nice location, felt pretty hard.
Only issue is bolting. Clipping the first carrot bolt felt very sketchy, with a potentially very dangerous fall and no possibility to stick clip. Also with one more bolt added between the 1st and 3rd this would be a sport climb. Only requires the single cam (BD # 0.75 or 1) |
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19 | ★ Grouchie | 18m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Mon 11th Jun 2018 | ||||
Hard warm up...!
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19 | ★★ Black Bart - with Levi Worden | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Jul 2018 | ||||
Really nice line! Got up 95% of this one clean. Just before the anchors the climb turns heaps nails which is were i ended up resting! Would love to go back and have another top rope crack at this one!
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19 | ★ Grouchie | 18m | Blue Mountains | Tue 9th Aug 2022 | |||||
Cripple rehab. Came off the very first move because right knee is still spaghetti in certain positions. Clean to the top.
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19 | ★★ Black Bart - with Makalu Ian, James | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | Mon 4th Dec 2023 | |||||
18 | ★★ Fer De Lance | 25m | Blue Mountains | Sun 22nd Jan 2017 | |||||
18 | ★★ Fer De Lance | 25m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jun 2017 | ||||
Never thought I'd say this about a traverse - but what a cool traverse at the top!! Good crack, with plenty of thought provoking moves.
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