Showing all 25 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
10 | Limbo
At the LH end of the Lower Tier, there are three buttresses facing towards Hanging Rock just before the cliff breaks down. These are reached by scrambling down below the Leaky Bucket area and following the path back up again on the other side of the first buttress.
FA: Harley Burke & Greg Fitzgerald, 1968 | 78m, 3 | |||
11 | Limbo Direct Finish
On pitch 3, continue straight up the crack system. Graded 14 in NW Victoria Guide. FA: Barry Russell & Andrew Stevens, 1990 | 30m | |||
12 | A Soft Touch
Named because of the furry handholds! Starts 2m left of Grey Arete at the foot of the slab. Up right leading crack to overlap. Step up left onto slab below overhang. Up ramp to break overhang on the right almost joining Grey Arête before heading up and left to ledge. FA: Rupert Freeman & Jerry Kupfer, 2002 | 25m | |||
8 | Mossy Showers
Start in Chimney left of Grey Arete, continue up chimney, to a slabby finish. Don't mind the moss, that rains down on you with any slight breeze. Claimed to have been climbed in 2018 probably more like 1960s when that kinda climbing was all the rages. FA: Unknown | 40m | |||
10 | ★★ Grey Arete
Narrow rib at the L end of the lower cliff. Follow arete and climb L into a large crack and then continue R up the pinnacle to a DRB belay (25m rap into R gully). | 32m | |||
18 | Biker Mice From Mars
Contrived. Up the wall between Grey Arete and Slug's Honour, placing gear on the left. At the ledge go directly over the ledge on the right where the boulder rests. Up right of the slab to the top. FA: Michael 'Wonderdog' Woodrow, Anthony Bishop & Julian Keane, 1994 | 32m | |||
15 | A Dose of the Politicians
At top of gully above Slug Wall. Scramble up corner below grey wall then left around bulge to finish FA: Andrew Stevens & Barry Russell, 1990 | 25m | |||
9 | ★ Return of the Fush
Well protected line on left side of buttress to the right of Grey Arete. Climb easily up the rib with the big trench to the wall at top on left with the shallow double corner. Good wires in the left corner then up to jugs and around right to follow the diagonal right leading line to the top and DRB. FA soloed. FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman & Mike Law, 1983 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Silent Assassin
Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains. | 20m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Unprofessional Conduct
Start as for 'Silent Assassin' at the base of the rib, but trend slightly rightwards. Up through cracks/groove to chains on left. Not run out but fiddly gear that some will not be happy with. Take care. FA: Michael Law, 1984 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ No Joy
The original route starts up the 8m mossy, juggy face of Little Jumble Gully to the ledge where Underseige & Keystones originally started. Pitch 2 is the obvious crack and groove in the grey/orange wall between Underseige & Keystones FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1984 | 20m, 2 | |||
18 | Underseige/Keystones
Best way to do Keystones. Start up Underseige clipping bolt to the break (gear), then traverse right to the ledge. Follow ramp up to Keystones. 2nd bolt can be clipped from the corner on right before stepping back to the line directly below it. | 20m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Blind Justice
The lower arete was rebolted with consultation of the FA in Oct 2018, this still requires mixed gear. Follow the initial arete past 3 FHs and onto the slab. Up the slab past another FH to gain the little rooflet, round this past another FH then up the top arete onto it L side to DB lower off. Michael did this onsite, covered in moss in damp conditions. Matty Brooks came in a week or 2 later and cleaned it up and added a bolt or 2 and claimed it. Nice of him to tidy it up for the FA, ha ha! Set: Matt Brooks, 1991 FA: Michael Woodrow & Ian Campbell, 1991 | 40m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Blind Sox
Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up arete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock. FA: Ian Campbell & Robin Miller, 1986 | 30m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ State of Shock
Rebolted by the FA in Oct 2018. Start: just left of Poxbow under obvious corner. Up chimney/crack to fused corner protected by 3RBs bolt to rap station FA: Daniel Brooks & Matt Brooks, 1991 | 25m, 3 | |||
17 | ★★ Poxbow
The obvious crack/corner line on the left of the face around left of Oxbow. The crux is at about 1/2 height, moving off the face and right facing corner and onto the arete of this corner. A critical cam (#1 [Red] BD Camalot in one orientation only) can be found to protect this move. Continue into the scoop above and follow the beautiful flake out right to a tricky exit move. FA: Michael Law, Ian Ravenscroft & Joy Fletcher, 1982 | 30m | |||
18 | ★★ Poxbow Variant
This was the original way 'Poxbow' was done and is still a great piece of climbing. From the slabby ground, instead of moving up to the chalked flake edge, traverse around R onto the nose on surprisingly large holds. Pull up the two pocketed bulges directly above. DRBs. FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft & Joy Fletcher, 1982 | 25m, 1 | |||
17 | ★ Sox Glo
As for Poxbow past the crux then finish on left arete (as for Blind Sox) rather than traversing right on the flake (FA Solo) FA: Robin Miller, 1986 | 29m | |||
16 | ★ Split Images
The original route started as for Law Enforcer and was graded (18), so add a grade or two if you start that way. Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall FA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1991 | 20m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Law Enforcer Variant
Start as for Split Images and then continue as for Law Enforcer FA: Probably a Brooks in the 90s | 20m, 4 | |||
12 | ★ One Hump or Two
| 75m, 3 | |||
6 | ★ Oxbow
1
6
33m
2
6
25m
3
6
32m
4
6
20m
Pitch lengths are definitely inflated Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'
FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1962 | 110m, 4 | |||
8 | ★ Ice-Cream Horror Tunnel
Okay climb with a little bit of caving. 1) 21m (8) Climb Dummy bidder all the way to the top and then belay. 2) 18m (7) Head right at the top of Dummy bidder and make your way around large boulder. Belay behind the boulder. 3) 8m (8) Here is the fun part head up tricky wall and through the small tunnel. Belay after tunnel. 4) 12m (3) head up the wall and belay at Black Magic area and then walk off. FA: Emma Howell, Daniel Howell & jen findlow, Dec 2016 | 59m, 4 | |||
8 | ★ Dummy bidder
Poorly pro down low. Shallow open corner 3m R of oxbow. Up corner to step R onto arête at where cracks converge. Up to just below blocky overhang. Step right onto juggy arête and up to the top | 20m | |||
5 | ★ Spit the dummy
Good first lead, well pro on good rock. Juggy rib 5m R of oxbow. Just left of narrow gully/crack. Follow rib just just under overhang. Join onto dummy bidder to finish stepping R | 20m |
Showing all 25 routes.