Routes in Camels Hump

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

There you have it... the main event. LDWT into DIM. Epic.

Mega. Stand start in the pit down right as for Day of the Ape. Up left as for DOTA to gaston on HD. Epic shoulder press down into start of straining rail finishing via whichever of its variants pick your fancy. Quite a few tough moves in a row. Worth extending left for the full experience.

After The War into Descent Into Madness. Hardest moves near the start... but there’s plenty to keep you thinking late.

Simian Ling Nights into DIM.

aka Death by a Thousand Cuts. Pretty meaty at the grade. Long Road Home into DIM.

Similar grading to the radness, maybe a tad harder. Sit start as per radness however go left into the pocket and thin edge avoiding the holds on the right. Match finish on the medium edge next to the fern. Another desperate concept line from Will.

Climb V8 version of the Radness (V8 if you do big foot/V7 version of TR) until R hand on finish jug. Technical sequence right to join Koala at the seam. Finish up that lines crux. Fairly long problem.

Eliminate with wings. Radness start (no use of left foot jug on arete) then Rad Dyno from slimp and crimp pocket to top jug, then top out more easily.

Cos its rad! Sit start with awesome crimp rail and undercling or low pocket. Climb the line of pockets, slimps and crimps (jugs out left of arete out) to match jug crack up right. Better still finish the boulder direct as per Wills Rad Traverse. V7 if you use big foot jug. Stand start goes at around V4/5 depending on what holds you use. Upgraded after several strong attempts sent packing.

V9/10. Poor mans variant or training progression/link-up... take your pick. Start at elevator stand (start of PA) and climb back half of LDWT before extending left as per SRE. Probably pretty close to double digits if you climb one of the V8 or 9 variants on straining rail.

Start as per Positive Ape in the Elevator Stand, and traverse left and low into start of Straining Rail avoiding jugs up high. Finish off on Straining Rail.

Ape.S.Crazy. Positive Ape into DIM.

Shoulder demolition factory! Climb HD into Positive Ape.

Longer than most of the routes down here! The Long Road Home then as for SR extension.

When will suggested this I considered it impossible... but it certainly does go. Climb Humpty to the elevator gastons then engage afterburners for a big off balance jump to the top finishinh jug directly above (all intermediates out).

Eliminate. Climbs the underside of the Straining Rail. No knee bars or scums and no left hand use of flake (including the giant jug and top crimp). Hard. There are a few variants V8 to V9. No heel hooks either if you want V9.

The route is longer than the name... but only just. Wills Dyno into Descent Into Madness. Hardest moves are deep in the problem. V9/10. For the masses to decide.

Adds length only (and another link up for the wall!). Under Strain then quest left as per SR extension.

As the name says! Having added the Straining Rail Extension via The Hull previously (and effectively doubling the available problems)... here for your bouldering obsessive compulsion is the truly contrived next edition. Having climbed SR or any of the harder right hand routes suck in the Os before dcending into the hanging corner then very tenuously onto the start holds of Southside (no getting the pockets from the crack and no knee bars!). Climb that problem in its entirety. Some of the links could be quite hard.

Traverse (Left to Right) the overhanging lip from a sit start on jug below chimney and avoiding the obvious line of jugs 1m above lip. Hardest at the start to gain Stiff Upper Lip.

SDS as per The Measure Sit for maximum value for money. Once at lip traverse to finish up Much Ado About Nothing.

Much ado Sit, reverse the Yumegiwa traverse and finish up Measure for Measure. Full value. PS... slopes and jugs around corner to right are out... should you feel inclined.

Awesome traverse around the boulder. Link The rad traverse with the koala link. Long, pumpy problem. Upgraded to V8 for now. Time will tell.

Probably the way to do it. The Radness using foot jug then right into Release The Koalas. Very easy to spill the second last move!

Link Day of the Ape into Positive Ape.

Long Night if the Ape into SRE

Starting on the slopey rail. Span to the right and finish via right facing horn to jug, dyno right to jug or up left facing flake. All worthwhile.

Start left hand lowest hold on straining rail flake and right just above it. Massive move to flake then as per under strain.

Truck left as per all the other extensions. Go on... do it!

Excellent technical and powerful climbing. Starts south side (underneath) The Hull. Stand start with both hands on edges on lip (and/or poor slope underclings on lip) of the hull and establish feet with difficulty. Steeply up a couple of moves via poor slope pockets on the underside and arete for right hand (crack and face jugs up right out for hands) to join TH. The slab on left is obviously out (but makes for an ok VE).

Epic crag classic. Takes The Great Migration to new levels by starting up FTS and finishing up the insecure highball crux of GSFP2 when you are most boxed. Line up your ducks (and possibly your spotters). Time will declare grade... you probably want to be climbing V8 to minimise the chance of breaking something punting the finish.

29 version of HSD into Wolf Variant instead of HSO.

The original full arete line.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct (Boogie pillar out for hands and feet) but some will succumb to temptation to rest up right in the scoop or on the jugs out left at the same level, both of which are probably 28.

Hard start off block immediately below camouflaged ring to boulder hanging arete and corner between Broomstick and Hollow Screams. From first jug near top of corner push back right past second ring to climb direct to the poor stance at the Hollow Screams 'half moon' jug (the big jug rests out left on broomstick and at the stance are both out). Finish via Hollow Screams original 26 crux. Or better and harder as Howling Wolf (same grade).

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and optional #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.

Completes the trilogy of excellent girdles on the left wall. Taking in the cruxes of most of the routes and requiring rope trickery and an attentive belayer to guarantee the safety of your ankles this is unlikely to gain too much attention... certainly not a route for a busy weekend! Start at Left Hand of Satan then very thin moves to gain the sloper and traverse on Satanic Verses until the large pocket. Easier moves right via Bop and Bewitched to gain the jugs on Broomstick at its third clip. Soak up the lactic and continue the charge right via Hollow Screams Original crux to finish up Boogie or Boogie RHV. Has also been finished up Wolf Variant.

Powerful SDS from good edge for the right and choice of features for the left.

V5 as a standing start with hands around chest height - right on the undercling dish, left on the lower sidepull with thumb catch. V4 if starting from the higher sidepull.

Big protruding block on the right at about chest height is off route for both hands and feet.

Great! Technical more than hard. But not easy! RH slopers, LH Gaston edge. Tension climbing to gain slope lip of the stand.

Hard sit start using undercling crimps and RH layaway. An eliminate without good layaway should be possible but pretty grunty. Differing opinions of which is easier, this or the measure sit.

Eliminates the arete of STS for hands, feet and hooks and also the big juggy blob at the top of the lower face (mostly so it doesn’t fall off and kill you). Sit start as for sally (or lower if you can do it without Arete). Hard first move to obvious sloper just inside the arete about a metre above the RH start hold then left to juggy horn. Move up past tree without using it (the tree, not the horn 🤦) to gain good holds on mossy upper arete and face to top out. Best not to fall off above tree. Actually climbs pretty well for contrived nonsense.

Low sit start to Sally the slapper. Start on compression crimps, utilising toehooks to gain the underside of the bulge and finish up through the pocket over the lip and out.

Diabolical and largely worthless lowball eliminate climbing NW arete from very lowest possible start (LH finger slope, RH lowest layaway) Slopers, slimps and layaways trending slightly right to gain the obvious square cut finger jug edges at ~10feet. All pockets eliminated. May get easier as the holds clean up.

Eliminate. SDS on left end of the face. Traverse right on crimps while staying below the top (eliminating the top lip). Instead of RH side pull use low RH crimp and LH gaston to dyno directly to slope edge finish (eliminating intermediate holds in between the dyno and top). Surprisingly tricky.

Can also be done with the top lip at a similar (if not easier grade) but is not the way it was first ascended.

Start at low flat top jug left of hanging chockstone. Big moves up via side pulls/Gaston’s to finish left side of chockstone. Has also been climbed from stand (LH sidepull, RH shoulder high crimp ~V4) but the finish avoiding the chockstone is fairly lively given the drop away landing.

Start as per Man-o-war, foot jug is in (you can do it without it, makes it harder but ruins the climb) climb around the boulder to the stand start holds of The Radness (Edge and pocket/slot). Finish as for TR including the easy but worthwhile extended high finish to top out the boulder.

Probably soft if you’re tall and/or can jump... but take care not to tear your right pinky off!! Stand start at chest height slope and pocket gaston on the Radness (or lower if you’re up for it). Establish feet and Dyno to radness finish jugs up right. No popping from the ground peeps! Easy high finish. Even better link it out of the Radness start!

Stand start down right using minging ripples on prow below chockstones. Up to good RH layaway (no heel/toe in crack to right) then left to gain R end of HD traverse (crimp on L side of chockstone in but nil chockstone jugs or R side of chockstone). Punch up to jugs above (R facing ear and jugs on chockstone to right out). Can be climbed at V6 starting with LH on chockstone crimp, RH on good low layaway.

As for PP but jug on flake and jug in roof all out. New beta is more technical than hard. Will see if subsequent ascents lead to a downgrade. Watch the landing!

It adds mileage to link PA into SRE and it's still possible to punt the last 2 moves!

Crag Classic. Sit start at base of slopey rail (RH crimp, LH crimp under bulge- see topo). Head up and left to finish on jugs. Excellent.

Same grade much more climbing... Really fun. Climb SR then easily left on jugs to cool sequence down into hanging corner and jugs on Babylon/The Hull. Move left to finish up the long moves of The Hull. Careful not to choke the last couple of moves!

Open for business... The full traverse from right to left. SDS on Molly's big undercling, dropping down through start holds of Speedfreak, eliminating crimps on Toot, and finishing up 8 Ball.

HSO to mid crux then Wolf Variant Finish.

Variant finish to Hollow Screams Original eliminating the jug and flake to right of the arete. Cool climbing and spicy runout makes this a fun way to stiffen up Depravity, The Howling or Hollow Screams Direct without changing their grades. Becomes the main event in Day of the Wolf. Gain the undercling mid crux in HSO then climb direct up arete/face to gain the hanging scoop (jug and flake to right out - and out of reach). Finish up Voodoo People headwall.

Depravity into Wolf Variant.

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade.

Adds 10m, a thought provoking traverse, a new gr25 crux, 1.5 grades and a pretty dicey clip to GA. As for SH to third clip (extend for drag) then before gaining layaway jug marking the end of its first crux traverse right clipping low ring then a difficult move or two to gain GA at its second hold (don’t step off... that’d be dumb). Climb all of GA, being careful not to spill its first clip (which might be ok with a sharp belayer).

V6? Start as TFv4. Use the right hand on the undercling, reach up with the left on the left most edge and move up the head wall. Looks pretty sketchy.

Thin and super commiting! Instead of escaping left as per Moamyn's Manual, eliminate that problems finishing hold and continue straight up to the groove above via a small incut edge.

The fridge shaped tower between baguette and Graf Spee. Very awkward sit start from flat hold and no lower block makes up the crux (and may be harder than 6... hard to tell as it took ages to sort beta). Then climb face and right arete (no jams) finishing up awesome pocketed head wall. Can be climbed using small edge on bottom block for feet at about V3.

Eliminate independent of arête and any holds left of seam below. Pretty goey.

The Entry to gain the arete then left via the early crux of speedball to gain Toot and up as for that.

Obvious bulged prow/arete right end of boulder. Sit start on obvious low flake (gentle... it needs to be pinned). Tricksy feet to gain slopes then cool paste on edges and compression straight up the prow. A cooler harder variant will lip traverse right to gain the brilliant but easy hanging slab.

PTYP sit first moves to edges then traverse hard right at same level (not up to large lay away or jugs in the scoop of PTYP) via some tech thin moves to gain blunt arete. Up via slopey edges to gain right end of scoop and up. Someone’s done some brushing here recently... who knows if climbed. Can be climbed from a low stand on the blunt arete at about V4 and will have a very hard direct sit start.

Low sit start at right end of face on LH crimp layaway and RH crimp. Once your ass is off jack long to a slopey divot on the right up over the top. Might be easier if you have span. Might not.

A variant to Airtime. A bigger jump to a better hold. Sit start right of Scar face using the same holds as Airtime (LH gaston, RH low crimp). Instead of dynoing to sloping lip, go big to the jug to the right (not the one below the top). Mantle finish.

Low sit start 1.5m left of NG jugs at poor left hand slimp and obvious flat cut edge for right (if starting with the incut crimp on right hand give yourself solid V4). Hard moves via sharp crimps to gain the LHV of NG. Jugs on standard start out for feet also.

Sit start out of the wombat hole on sharp edges (left one well left under fallen tree... if you start on the 2 close edges take a grade off). Hard moves up and slightly right via sharp crimps to exit left of nose goblin (you never make it as far right as the slope). The left hand lip of the boulder is also out.

Outstanding! Adds 4m of V6 to Migration. Start up TCOIA then left via edges on FTS to join Migration via excellent technical sequence. Lip of Boulder and jugs on detached block are out.

The crew reckon the start has to be a 6. Hard sit start at face between SOOHC and SOOHS with good LH layaway and low RH undercling/layaway. Tough moves to gain edges on lip and cool easy mantle.

Ultra low start to OTFD with LH on obvious low layaway and RH on ear below start edges of OTFD. 2 hard moves to gain OTFDs start, finishing as for OTF, GSFP2 or Migration.

Sit start with RH undercling and LH crimp. Make a challenging deadpoint into the seam out left before continuing up through some hugging and barndooring.

Start matched on finishing jugs of the Radness. Sequency traverse right to gain the seam at start of RTK. Finish as for that problem. Essentially a longer start.

'Elevator door' stand start with the HD gaston right hand and left on the opposing gaston crimp (see start hold topo). Technical moves up left trending flake to jug (horn and jug on right are out). From jug traverse left to finish as for SR using that problems undercling flake jug. Was a bit mean at V5.

PS then SR extension. Adds a grade.

Start RH on low lip, LH on juggy pocket (old tick) ie all except hard first moves of Southside. Up into the Hull via a cool sequence. Was probably solid at the grade at V5... now V6 after the best hold on the lip got kicked off!

SDS matched on the lumpy jug. Edge and dish on the shield and then array of equally poor features above.

Alternately can start on jugs of the Inbetweener, traversing left to NE prow start holds to link with Underground Resistance at V6 (dotted line - aka Short Circuit).

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original. Could be closer to 27.

Start up Bop for 3 bolts, then move down and left into large pocket on SV. Finish up Satanic Verses Direct. Easier than SV original and HS original, but very nice. Traversing left higher (above the large pocket on SV) is an excellent and more sustained variant also at 26. A large nut can be placed after the last bolt if you don't like the run out to the top.

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming! May have been mistaken for the direct but the original was always (26).

Yet another linkup: Start on Bop, traverse into Satanic Verses like for Satan Said Dance, but instead of following Satanic Verses to the top, keep traversing up left from the largish sloper-sidepull ledge via Between Good And Evil, finishing on the Left Hand of Satan. Probably been done before? Nice homogeneous difficulty from start to top.

Start standing up into the sloping scoop. Grab the tiny crimps and learn to fly.

Stand start in a elevator door move (two gastons). Think 'stick' and throw up to the jugs and top out.

The green block to the left is out.

Start with LH on obvious jug, RH low on arete. Up arete then tough move or two to rock back onto face. Up.

Pointless eliminate. Sit start on tree with pinches and edges on rib of arete only (as per toddler marked topo!)

The half traverse...SDS in middle of wall. RH on vertical sidepull, LH on good crimp jug. Up to slot, match and across left into and up 8 Ball...very cool

SDS Direct start to Big John avoiding the large starting holds of Tempest. Instead use a gaston edge for the left hand and thin sidepull with thumb catch for the right. The move is about 12 inches but still tougher and more technical than the other 4s down here. V5.

Start as for Boogers but instead of moving right muscle up through runnel gastoning slopes either side.

Left face of the gully above Leaky Bucket with the huge chockstone.

Low start at the narrow letterbox slots below and just right of the chockstone with feet on half inch edges. Up the thin overhanging face keeping right of the hanging block till feet are level with it. When they are step left to finish standing on the chockstone.

Carefully down climb the opposite face to descend. First climbed a few decades ago - needs a brush!

Sit start just left of OTFs flake using edges. Stand start goes at V3.

A hard sit start with low undercling and crimp. If you can reach the good holds near lip from sit start then V4. From lip a few slopy moves to gain rib immediately right of tree and up to finish on jugs.

Outrageous finish to Migration finishing direct above the scoop using a series of thin layaways and edges. Jugs left of scoop are out. High proud and not a good place to let go. With lots of pads and spotters its still only 60/40 that you won't get hurt. Anything less would almost certainly be costly. Can be approached from Out Too Far Direct SS at same grade or DOTLD at V6.

Stand start with one or both hands on jug on Straining Rail. Finish as per that problem A few variants all in the V4 range. V5 if extended left via the Hull.

Up IO, clip 2nd FH with long sling then truck left below the lip as per MOW.

Let's leave it at 25 and see what people think... And try not to fall off at end of crux which could be bad for your ankles. Contrived but fun climbing up underside of arête of red wall left of limbo. Start at rightmost RB them left past 4 more to chain anchor. Stay below lip throughout. At last bolt avoid the temptation to follow holds up right and make a few more moves up overhung left face (crux) to mantle.

Yep another LU, and it’s good with double crux. Start of Bop to third bolt (Bop crux), step right and diagonally up right (Metho crux) to high fourth bolt of Broomstick.

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 4th bolt on Bop till You Drop. Slightly down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick. A better alternative is to climb diagonally up and right from BTYDs 4th bolt (more sustained, same grade).

If that’s not pumpy or wandery enough get a long rope and try Megatrexate 26... as per original to bewitched, but continue right via Voodoo People to jugs then a couple of hard moves to gain the OK holds halfway through the hard bit of wolf variant (FH). Climb it into the scoop, then right to finish up Boogie RHV. Requires lots of clips and an equally deranged second.