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Routes as trad in Churchman's Brook

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Showing all 55 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
26
Collaboration Wall
26 Gristle Trouble

FA: Mike Law, 1988

Trad 25m
23
Collaboration Wall
23 Gates of Mordor Direct Mixed trad 20m, 2
22 R
The Super Slab
22 R Sundowner

Start 3 m right of Caledonian Way. Climb the wall on thin holds to the first bolt. Step left delicately to below the small bulge. Desperate climbing gains a tenuous foothold below the second bolt. The high left handhold can be gained by a variety of frightening moves. Continue on easier rock and finish as for Major. If you fall during the tricky clip of the 2nd bolt you may well deck out. Character building.

FA: Wayne Carroll

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 26m, 2
21
The West End
21 Whiskey With A Sting in the Tail

Shares start with A Boring Day in Baghdad. Place some small friends then tremble and quiver your way up the overhanging wall with 2 bolts to DBB.

FA: Matthew Rosser & Jim Truscott, 2005

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 12m, 2
21 Grit

The most deceptive line on the crag. Start at the blocks just right of Red Giant. Up over the bulge to clip. Move left to a triangular niche and up thin lay-away crack past another bolt, into a cave. Step right to an undercling, clip and grovel to the top.

FA: Ron Master & R.Moor, 1987

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 22m, 4
Slash and Burn Wall
21 Welsh Git Mixed trad 35m, 1
Fang Wall
21 Fill It In

Start as for First Route, protecting with gear if desired. Then go direct up the wall to the right of the First Route crack to the first FH. Continue along the bolted line towards the top out.

FA: Phillip Calais & Jo Hoffman, 1990

Mixed trad 25m, 3
The Super Slab
21 Super Slab Direct

As for Super Slab but after the first bolt go directly up to the second one and then directly up to the sentry box above. Finish up the crack.

FA: Phillip Calais & Jo Hoffman, 1990

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 30m, 2
20
The West End
20 Red Direct

Start just to the left of Red Giant at the overhanging left side of the block. Up to the line of Red Giant and follow it to the first bolt. Move right and up face past the next bolt to a large ledge. Move left and up the wall past another bolt to finish (crux).

FA: Ron Master & Harry Butler

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 27m, 3
Collaboration Wall
20 Gates of Mordor alternate finish

Start as for Gate of Mordor then after reaching the top section trend right following the last two fixed hangers for Red Giant

Mixed trad 30m, 3
20 Gates of Mordor

Follow hand crack until gaining the first ledge. A carrot bolt has been added to the second ledge to protect the mantle. Powerful moves on delicate gear are required to follow the overhang to the left. The top section is runnout but cruisy

FA: Mark Paramore

Mixed trad 30m, 1
The Super Slab
20 Unknown

Start 1 m right of Flypaper at the moss-speckled wall with a thin crack. Climb the wall directly to the bolt of Flypaper. Finnish through small V-notch in the skyline.

FA: unknow

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 28m, 1
20 Flypaper

Start 2 m right of Bootiful. Climb through the two V-shaped niches and take the great wall direct past a bolt at 15 m. Gaining the bolt is totally desperate.

FA: Ron Master & Peter McKenzie, 1979

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 28m, 1
20 Super Slab

Start as for Sundowner. Climb to the first bolt, then up and right to reach the piton in the triangular niche on Bootiful. Follow the groove up and left to the sentry box and finish through the overhanging hand jam crack.

FA: Alex Oslow

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 25m, 2
19
Slash and Burn Wall
19 Mainliner

As for Celestial Way but instead of traversing right go straight up, clipping the two fixed hangers along the way. Above the bulge take the thin crack to niche and fixed hanger, then move to the next large niche and another fixed hanger. Continue up crack to scoop then mantle to finish. Some wall wires or even microcams are handy.

FA: Ronald & Ron Master

Mixed trad 28m, 2
Fang Wall
19 Borderline

Start per The Bite, protecting with gear. Climb to the tree and sling it. Move directly up past the tree and to the right to the single FH. Hard moves see you high above bolt, but keep climbing up easier rock to an optional cam placement and eventually the DBB.

Mixed trad 25m, 1
19 Munchy Trad 25m
The Super Slab
19 Dump Zone

Climb face 2 m R of Ornet, clip FH and continue up L of it. Above the grassy ledge climb the L arête of sloping, blank slab L of bush to finish. Better than it looks from the ground.

FA: Shane Richardson, 1990

Mixed trad 20m, 1
18
The West End
18 A Boring Day in Baghdad

Shares Start with Whiskey With A Sting in the Tail and then follows bolts right. Continue past the ledge to find a single bolt to use as an anchor

FA: Jim Truscott & Matthew Rosser, 2005

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 11m, 2
18 Yellow Streak

FA: 'Mac' McArthur & Warren Lees, 1979

Mixed trad 13m, 1
18 An Oldies Special

Start bellow the carrot bolt and then follow the line up to Calophylla Crack before venturing right

FA: Mike Clemson, Mac McArthur & Chris Swain, 2005

Mixed trad 15m, 1
Slash and Burn Wall
18 Celestial Way

Start 2m right of Bodgy Dolts. Up overhanging groove to stand on large ledge to the right. Up next bulge and climb wall until it steepens, then traverse right into a shallow groove and crack, the mid point of Up for Grabs, to finish.

FA: 'Mac' McArthur

Trad 30m
18 Super Nova Trad 30m
Lost Arrow Area
18 Fear and Loathing

The face right of Lost Arrow with a horizontal break at half height. Start on Slanting Crack (you might want to place gear on the start) and then move left onto the face with two fixed hangers and one carrot after.

Mixed trad 12m, 3
18 R
The Super Slab
18 R Bootiful

Start at the right side of the smooth grey slab 3 m right of Sundowner. Climb the fault past a bolt in a small triangular niche to the sentry box. Exit past the piton in the headwall right of a groove (crux). Scramble to a BR belay.

FA: 'Mac' McArthur

Maint: Mar 2023

Mixed trad 28m, 2
17
The West End
17 Poodle Dog Trad 12m
Fang Wall
17 Editorial

FA: Ross Weiter & Peter Thomas

Trad 30m
The Super Slab
17 Major

Start in the corner at the left edge of smooth slab, as for Caledonian Way. Before reaching top of block, step right onto face and up a shallow groove to finish. Keep the two triangular niches on the right.

FA: Mike Smith

Trad 25m
The Short Walls
17 Stretch Trad 7m
17 Cornered Trad 7m
14 - 17
Slash and Burn Wall
14 - 17 Super Nova Connection Mixed trad 25m, 1
16
The West End
16 Calophylla Crack Trad 18m
Fang Wall
16 The Bite Trad 25m
16 The Fang

Start 2m right of First Route at a short wall with a sentry box at 4m and groove above. Climb left of the wall then right onto ledge. Up groove to next ledge. Straight up to sloping V-shaped ledge and traverse right to triangular rock. Step left and straight up to finish.

FA: 'Mac' McArthur & Dave James, 1976

Trad 25m
16 Could Have Been Better Trad 30m
The Super Slab
16 Skinny Dip

Start in the shallow groove in the black rock 3 m to the R of Ornet. Up the groove for 4 m, clip the FH to the L (on Dump Zone). Delicate steps up R through to grassy ledge. Continue up the wall to a ledge, then climb the crack in the wall above avoiding the jug of Caledonian Way. Finish up the L side of the wall above.

FA: John Watson

Mixed trad 25m, 1
16 Hello Possum Trad 25m
15
Fang Wall
15 First Route

The first route on the cliff. Climb the crack 4 metres right of Could Have Been Better to a shallow cave. Move up to right of the cave (crux) then straight up to join Rampant Dicks. A bit run out near the top.

FA: 'Mac' McArthur

Trad 30m
Lost Arrow Area
15 Bottomless Corner Trad 15m
15 Lost Arrow

Climb the tapering crack towards DBB. It gets easier and better protected higher up.

FA: Dave Pulin, 1976

Trad 12m
14
Slash and Burn Wall
14 Gabbro Groove

The obvious V-section crack 2m right of Slash and Burn.

FA: 'Mac' McArthur

Trad 20m
Fang Wall
14 The Sting

FA: Mike Smith & David James

Trad 25m
The Super Slab
14 Caledonian Way Alternate Right Wall Finish Trad 25m
Lost Arrow Area
14 Bye-bye Brysland Mixed trad 15m, 1
13
The Super Slab
13 Ornet

Climb the crack 3 m R of the gully and the short wall above to the grassy ledge. Move 4 m R and follow the crack up to the headwall. Climb this to the top.

FA: Dave James & Roger Scott, 1977

Trad 25m
Lost Arrow Area
13 Slanting Crack

Follow the right slanting crack 2 metres right of Lost Arrow. Finish by going straight up the sentry box. Two fixed hangers at the anchor.

Trad 20m
13 Presence Trad 10m
12
Fang Wall
12 Rampant Dicks Trad 30m
12 Pink Knickers

Starts in front of a large marri, mantle to the shelf.

Trad 28m
10
The Super Slab
10 Caledonian Way

Start in the corner at the left edge of the smooth slab. Climb the corner for 12 metres to the top of the block. Up just left of orange overhangs to finish.

FA: Dave James & Stephen Antony, 1976

Trad 27m
Lost Arrow Area
10 Skidmark Trad 23m
10 Twenty Two Trad 15m
10 Forty Four Trad 20m
9
The Super Slab
9 Caledonian Way Alternate Start

Start up the crack 1 m left of the corner and follow it to the top of the block. Finish as for Caledonian Way.

Trad 27m
5
Lost Arrow Area
5 Extremely Moderate Trad 10m

Showing all 55 routes.

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