Showing all 55 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
26 | |||||
Collaboration Wall | |||||
26 | Gristle Trouble
FA: Mike Law, 1988 | 25m | |||
23 | |||||
Collaboration Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Gates of Mordor Direct | 20m, 2 | |||
22 R | |||||
The Super Slab | |||||
22 R | ★★ Sundowner
Start 3 m right of Caledonian Way. Climb the wall on thin holds to the first bolt. Step left delicately to below the small bulge. Desperate climbing gains a tenuous foothold below the second bolt. The high left handhold can be gained by a variety of frightening moves. Continue on easier rock and finish as for Major. If you fall during the tricky clip of the 2nd bolt you may well deck out. Character building. FA: Wayne Carroll Maint: Mar 2023 | 26m, 2 | |||
21 | |||||
The West End | |||||
21 | Whiskey With A Sting in the Tail
Shares start with A Boring Day in Baghdad. Place some small friends then tremble and quiver your way up the overhanging wall with 2 bolts to DBB. FA: Matthew Rosser & Jim Truscott, 2005 Maint: Mar 2023 | 12m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Grit
The most deceptive line on the crag. Start at the blocks just right of Red Giant. Up over the bulge to clip. Move left to a triangular niche and up thin lay-away crack past another bolt, into a cave. Step right to an undercling, clip and grovel to the top. FA: Ron Master & R.Moor, 1987 Maint: Mar 2023 | 22m, 4 | |||
Slash and Burn Wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Welsh Git | 35m, 1 | |||
Fang Wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Fill It In
Start as for First Route, protecting with gear if desired. Then go direct up the wall to the right of the First Route crack to the first FH. Continue along the bolted line towards the top out. FA: Phillip Calais & Jo Hoffman, 1990 | 25m, 3 | |||
The Super Slab | |||||
21 | ★★ Super Slab Direct
As for Super Slab but after the first bolt go directly up to the second one and then directly up to the sentry box above. Finish up the crack. FA: Phillip Calais & Jo Hoffman, 1990 Maint: Mar 2023 | 30m, 2 | |||
20 | |||||
The West End | |||||
20 | ★ Red Direct
Start just to the left of Red Giant at the overhanging left side of the block. Up to the line of Red Giant and follow it to the first bolt. Move right and up face past the next bolt to a large ledge. Move left and up the wall past another bolt to finish (crux). FA: Ron Master & Harry Butler Maint: Mar 2023 | 27m, 3 | |||
Collaboration Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Gates of Mordor alternate finish
Start as for Gate of Mordor then after reaching the top section trend right following the last two fixed hangers for Red Giant | 30m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★★ Gates of Mordor
Follow hand crack until gaining the first ledge. A carrot bolt has been added to the second ledge to protect the mantle. Powerful moves on delicate gear are required to follow the overhang to the left. The top section is runnout but cruisy FA: Mark Paramore | 30m, 1 | |||
The Super Slab | |||||
20 | Unknown
Start 1 m right of Flypaper at the moss-speckled wall with a thin crack. Climb the wall directly to the bolt of Flypaper. Finnish through small V-notch in the skyline. FA: unknow Maint: Mar 2023 | 28m, 1 | |||
20 | ★ Flypaper
Start 2 m right of Bootiful. Climb through the two V-shaped niches and take the great wall direct past a bolt at 15 m. Gaining the bolt is totally desperate. FA: Ron Master & Peter McKenzie, 1979 Maint: Mar 2023 | 28m, 1 | |||
20 | ★★ Super Slab
Start as for Sundowner. Climb to the first bolt, then up and right to reach the piton in the triangular niche on Bootiful. Follow the groove up and left to the sentry box and finish through the overhanging hand jam crack. FA: Alex Oslow Maint: Mar 2023 | 25m, 2 | |||
19 | |||||
Slash and Burn Wall | |||||
19 | ★★ Mainliner
As for Celestial Way but instead of traversing right go straight up, clipping the two fixed hangers along the way. Above the bulge take the thin crack to niche and fixed hanger, then move to the next large niche and another fixed hanger. Continue up crack to scoop then mantle to finish. Some wall wires or even microcams are handy. FA: Ronald & Ron Master | 28m, 2 | |||
Fang Wall | |||||
19 | ★★ Borderline
Start per The Bite, protecting with gear. Climb to the tree and sling it. Move directly up past the tree and to the right to the single FH. Hard moves see you high above bolt, but keep climbing up easier rock to an optional cam placement and eventually the DBB. | 25m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Munchy | 25m | |||
The Super Slab | |||||
19 | Dump Zone
Climb face 2 m R of Ornet, clip FH and continue up L of it. Above the grassy ledge climb the L arête of sloping, blank slab L of bush to finish. Better than it looks from the ground. FA: Shane Richardson, 1990 | 20m, 1 | |||
18 | |||||
The West End | |||||
18 | ★ A Boring Day in Baghdad
Shares Start with Whiskey With A Sting in the Tail and then follows bolts right. Continue past the ledge to find a single bolt to use as an anchor FA: Jim Truscott & Matthew Rosser, 2005 Maint: Mar 2023 | 11m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Yellow Streak
FA: 'Mac' McArthur & Warren Lees, 1979 | 13m, 1 | |||
18 | An Oldies Special
Start bellow the carrot bolt and then follow the line up to Calophylla Crack before venturing right FA: Mike Clemson, Mac McArthur & Chris Swain, 2005 | 15m, 1 | |||
Slash and Burn Wall | |||||
18 | ★ Celestial Way
Start 2m right of Bodgy Dolts. Up overhanging groove to stand on large ledge to the right. Up next bulge and climb wall until it steepens, then traverse right into a shallow groove and crack, the mid point of Up for Grabs, to finish. FA: 'Mac' McArthur | 30m | |||
18 | ★ Super Nova | 30m | |||
Lost Arrow Area | |||||
18 | ★★ Fear and Loathing
The face right of Lost Arrow with a horizontal break at half height. Start on Slanting Crack (you might want to place gear on the start) and then move left onto the face with two fixed hangers and one carrot after. | 12m, 3 | |||
18 R | |||||
The Super Slab | |||||
18 R | ★ Bootiful
Start at the right side of the smooth grey slab 3 m right of Sundowner. Climb the fault past a bolt in a small triangular niche to the sentry box. Exit past the piton in the headwall right of a groove (crux). Scramble to a BR belay. FA: 'Mac' McArthur Maint: Mar 2023 | 28m, 2 | |||
17 | |||||
The West End | |||||
17 | ★ Poodle Dog | 12m | |||
Fang Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Editorial
FA: Ross Weiter & Peter Thomas | 30m | |||
The Super Slab | |||||
17 | ★ Major
Start in the corner at the left edge of smooth slab, as for Caledonian Way. Before reaching top of block, step right onto face and up a shallow groove to finish. Keep the two triangular niches on the right. FA: Mike Smith | 25m | |||
The Short Walls | |||||
17 | Stretch | 7m | |||
17 | Cornered | 7m | |||
14 - 17 | |||||
Slash and Burn Wall | |||||
14 - 17 | ★ Super Nova Connection | 25m, 1 | |||
16 | |||||
The West End | |||||
16 | ★ Calophylla Crack | 18m | |||
Fang Wall | |||||
16 | ★ The Bite | 25m | |||
16 | ★★ The Fang
Start 2m right of First Route at a short wall with a sentry box at 4m and groove above. Climb left of the wall then right onto ledge. Up groove to next ledge. Straight up to sloping V-shaped ledge and traverse right to triangular rock. Step left and straight up to finish. FA: 'Mac' McArthur & Dave James, 1976 | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Could Have Been Better | 30m | |||
The Super Slab | |||||
16 | ★ Skinny Dip
Start in the shallow groove in the black rock 3 m to the R of Ornet. Up the groove for 4 m, clip the FH to the L (on Dump Zone). Delicate steps up R through to grassy ledge. Continue up the wall to a ledge, then climb the crack in the wall above avoiding the jug of Caledonian Way. Finish up the L side of the wall above. FA: John Watson | 25m, 1 | |||
16 | Hello Possum | 25m | |||
15 | |||||
Fang Wall | |||||
15 | ★★ First Route
The first route on the cliff. Climb the crack 4 metres right of Could Have Been Better to a shallow cave. Move up to right of the cave (crux) then straight up to join Rampant Dicks. A bit run out near the top. FA: 'Mac' McArthur | 30m | |||
Lost Arrow Area | |||||
15 | Bottomless Corner | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Lost Arrow
Climb the tapering crack towards DBB. It gets easier and better protected higher up. FA: Dave Pulin, 1976 | 12m | |||
14 | |||||
Slash and Burn Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Gabbro Groove
The obvious V-section crack 2m right of Slash and Burn. FA: 'Mac' McArthur | 20m | |||
Fang Wall | |||||
14 | ★★ The Sting
FA: Mike Smith & David James | 25m | |||
The Super Slab | |||||
14 | ★ Caledonian Way Alternate Right Wall Finish | 25m | |||
Lost Arrow Area | |||||
14 | Bye-bye Brysland | 15m, 1 | |||
13 | |||||
The Super Slab | |||||
13 | Ornet
Climb the crack 3 m R of the gully and the short wall above to the grassy ledge. Move 4 m R and follow the crack up to the headwall. Climb this to the top. FA: Dave James & Roger Scott, 1977 | 25m | |||
Lost Arrow Area | |||||
13 | ★ Slanting Crack
Follow the right slanting crack 2 metres right of Lost Arrow. Finish by going straight up the sentry box. Two fixed hangers at the anchor. | 20m | |||
13 | Presence | 10m | |||
12 | |||||
Fang Wall | |||||
12 | ★ Rampant Dicks | 30m | |||
12 | ★ Pink Knickers
Starts in front of a large marri, mantle to the shelf. | 28m | |||
10 | |||||
The Super Slab | |||||
10 | ★ Caledonian Way
Start in the corner at the left edge of the smooth slab. Climb the corner for 12 metres to the top of the block. Up just left of orange overhangs to finish. FA: Dave James & Stephen Antony, 1976 | 27m | |||
Lost Arrow Area | |||||
10 | Skidmark | 23m | |||
10 | Twenty Two | 15m | |||
10 | Forty Four | 20m | |||
9 | |||||
The Super Slab | |||||
9 | ★ Caledonian Way Alternate Start
Start up the crack 1 m left of the corner and follow it to the top of the block. Finish as for Caledonian Way. | 27m | |||
5 | |||||
Lost Arrow Area | |||||
5 | Extremely Moderate | 10m |
Showing all 55 routes.