Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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25 | ★★ White Man's Voodoo | 15m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Oct 2019 | ||||
Didn't expect to walk away with the onsight of this line, but had a hero moment just barely latching the crimp at the top. Super fun!
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25 24 | ★★ Marty's Route | 16m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jul 2004 | ||||
easier climbing with a boulder problem to finish through the roof.
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25 24 | ★★ Marty's Route | 16m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Nov 2004 | ||||
first 25 onsight, OH YEAH!!!
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24 | ★ Black And White | 8m | Coffs Harbour | Average | Sat 23rd Aug 2008 | ||||
Did i do the 2nd ascent of this?????
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24 | ★★ Niles Roof | 8m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Aug 2008 | ||||
oooooooooooooosssssssssssss
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25 24 | ★★ Kanoon | 12m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Mar 2012 | ||||
Juicy. Really cool sequence, jugs everywhere and then a big left leap of faith which once stuck is definitely the highlight.
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24 | ★★ Marty's Route | 16m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Oct 2019 | ||||
Interesting and exciting finish.
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23 | ★★ Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll | 15m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Nov 2004 | ||||
wicked first move. Loved it
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22 23 | ★★ Silver And Gold | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Dec 2007 | ||||
Miss the jug and turn it into 24!
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23 | ★★ Tim's Vital Life Juice | 15m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th May 2004 | ||||
fun, steeper than it looks. commiting throw to second clip
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23 | ★ Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Wed 16th Jul 2003 | |||||
One move wonder - easy for the grade
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23 | ★★ Tim's Vital Life Juice | 15m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Jul 2004 | ||||
good long moves
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23 | ★★ Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll | 15m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Oct 2004 | ||||
Bloody brilliant with big moves
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23 | ★★ Sibling Rivalry | 15m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Thu 29th Jun 2006 | ||||
sic climb loved it
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23 | ★★ Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll | 15m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Jan 2005 | ||||
cracking good fun
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23 | ★ Wisdom Of Youth | 20m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | Sun 1st Apr 2001 | |||||
one move wonder
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23 | ★★ Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll | 15m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Jul 2004 | ||||
cool climbing. especially the first half.
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23 | ★ Will of the Word | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Fri 16th Dec 2011 | ||||
Thought I was on Poo wall, therefore climb was unsuspectingly hard but good. Thin in places.
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23 | ★★ Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll | 15m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | Don't Bother | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | ||||
rusted out bolts, the worst one is at the crux move. Just big crazy stuff, the young gym boys will clip the bolts without realizing their imminent death and love it.
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23 | ★★ Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll | 15m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | ||||
Agreed some of these bolts really need replacement. Awesome climb with funky movement and cool pockets, the top anchor is way back so i gingerly lower off the top crux bolt (the worse of all the crapy bolts)
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23 | ★ Wisdom Of Youth - with Nicole | 20m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Sep 2018 | ||||
The last move into the dirty black rock robs the route of an extra star
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23 | Wisdom Of Youth VS - with Ari Landstra | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | Average | Tue 14th Jan 2020 | ||||
Doesn’t add anything to the climb
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23 | ★ Wisdom Of Youth - with Ari Landstra | 20m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Jan 2020 | ||||
Big holds to very balancy section. Super good
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23 | ★★ Sex And Drugs On The Rock And Roll - with Ari Landstra | 15m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Jan 2020 | ||||
Amazing holds and awesome moves!! Worth doing for sure!
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21 22 | ★★ Missing Monkeys | 15m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Apr 2004 | ||||
Awsome moves. pulling the lip is hard though
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22 | ★★ Short And Sweet | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Sun 1st Apr 2001 | |||||
soft
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22 | ★★ The Malloy | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | Average | Sat 23rd Aug 2008 | ||||
luck yo pull off the OS
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22 | ★★ Andy Goodvibes | 18m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Jul 2004 | ||||
thin. OS: 7.6.98
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21 22 | ★★ Missing Monkeys | 15m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Jul 2004 | ||||
pretty spoogy. Needs brushing.
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22 | Dicky Seat | 7m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Crap | Wed 3rd Jan 2007 | ||||
grade twenty-poo
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22 | ★ Paranormal | 13m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2012 | ||||
quite technical, pumpy due to small holds.
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22 | ★ Beached Az | 18m, 6 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | ||||
Makes sense to keep climbing to the top, not 22 even with the direct start.
Good climbing and just reverse the moves back to the ledge to get off.
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22 | ★ Beached Az | 18m, 6 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sun 16th Nov 2014 | ||||
Interesting finish, needs some rings over the top, using long slings.
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22 | ★★ The Pretender | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Nov 2014 | ||||
Nice roof, wild throw to the end.
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22 | ★★ King Brown - with UNEOAC | 15m, 6 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Jun 2015 | ||||
Waihoo just keeps delivering. Had loads of fun on this climb and a few laughs to when I decided that a mantle was warranted before the crux....haha, that made things interesting. Awesome climbing.
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22 | ★★★ Down on the Upside | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | ||||
Great fun, reach though. Hard for the grade maybe
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22 | ★★ Pimp My Vagrant Ride | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | ||||
Very classy climbing. Feels harder than Andy Goodvibes.
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22 | ★★ The Malloy | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Oct 2019 | ||||
Another great line. The Alcove certainly is stacked with quality climbs.
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22 | ★★ Pimp My Vagrant Ride - with Ari Landstra | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Tue 14th Jan 2020 | ||||
Good moves but rock sucks down low. Be careful of the big RH side pull down low-it will come off if you pull on it. The small flakes are also suspect
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22 | ★★ Andy Goodvibes - with Ari Landstra | 18m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Jan 2020 | ||||
Super nice slabbing. Just enough to get you through
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22 | ★★ Gastro Pod - with Stephen Hawkshaw | 12m | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Jun 2020 | ||||
Sneaky finish, then shorties wont be happy
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22 | ★★ The Malloy | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | Mon 6th Jul 2020 | |||||
great wee pumpy number.
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22 | ★★ Andy Goodvibes | 18m, 7 | Coffs Harbour | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | |||||
good slabbing
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22 | ★★ Short And Sweet | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Sun 31st May 2020 | |||||
soft
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22 | ★★★ Down on the Upside - with Danny Ellen Drue Clarita | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | Sun 27th Dec 2020 | |||||
Beauty.
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22 | ★★ Gastro Pod - with Pazi, Marius | 12m | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Jan 2021 | ||||
Great route
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22 | ★★ Gastro Pod | 12m | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jun 2021 | ||||
Nice moves between horizontals
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22 | ★★ The Malloy | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | |||||
More pleasant climbing. The alcove rocks
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22 Easy | ★★ The Pretender | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Feb 2023 | ||||
Outrageously cool! Incredibly enjoyable roof. Easier than it looks:) top rope through the draws to clean
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21 | ★ Jeff's Live Round | 8m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Oct 2004 | ||||
Pretty harsh bouldery moves
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21 | ★★ Magic Dick Sixteen | 15m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Jul 2004 | ||||
OS: 28.9.99
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21 | ★ Wet Dreams | 10m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Tue 1st Apr 1997 | |||||
also 29.9.99
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21 | ★★ Zarzoff | 10m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Thu 29th Jun 2006 | ||||
technical climbing loved it
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21 | ★★ Flat Batteries | 8m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jun 2006 | ||||
balancy start, good moves
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21 | ★★ Narcissus Raining Down | 10m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Jan 2007 | ||||
more like rocks raining down!!! And almost Rohan raining down....
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21 | ★★ Power And The Passion | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jun 2006 | ||||
short but good, wish my bolt plates would fit
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21 | ★★★ Silk 'N' Steel | 20m | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 22nd Aug 2012 | ||||
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21 | ★ Jeff's Live Round | 8m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2012 | ||||
nice climb, cool deadpoint moves.
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21 | ★★ Birthday Suit | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Thu 27th Dec 2012 | |||||
Awesome climb. Tough start but reasonably juggy the rest of the way. I had been bitten by a Bull Ant just before starting this climb so by the time I was at the top I was starting to feel a bit woozy. Had to call it a day after this . Bring cams and/or nuts to belay up your second.
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21 | ★★ The Shadow | 25m, 6 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Mon 31st Dec 2012 | ||||
Really fun sequences with a great variety of moves. Awesome rock. Enough bolts to keep things chilled yet good pro when you really need it.
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21 | ★★ Magic Dick Sixteen | 15m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Oct 2013 | ||||
Fun warm down, not straightforward! like.
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21 | ★★ Milk and Honey - with UNEOAC | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sun 25th Aug 2013 | ||||
Great climb with plenty of variety, from dynos, to plenty of jugs, crimpers and an awkward mantle to boot.
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21 | ★ Beached DS | 15m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | ||||
Good first move boulder then crimp and weave around the harder direct section. I Continued up the extension which made perfect sense for short routes like these.
bit soft.
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21 | ★★ Magic Dick Sixteen | 15m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | ||||
Really interesting route for the 3 bolts of climbing, but don't sell it short as its action pack. 3 bolts and 3 boulders. Harder then it looks..
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21 | ★★ Milk and Honey | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | ||||
The last great line??
Cool taipan-like start then awkward high foot or sit down move onto a ledge with lots of other fun but odd moves to a high string in the tail.
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21 | ★★ The Raw | 10m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | Fri 3rd Oct 2014 | |||||
Awesome flowy moves!
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21 | ★★ Magic Dick Sixteen | 15m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Tue 18th Nov 2014 | ||||
Warm up, punchy, long moves
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21 | ★★ Ouzo Sushi | 16m, 6 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Dec 2015 | ||||
Fun moves through the overhang.
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21 | ★★ Milk and Honey | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | ||||
Reachy
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21 | ★★ Magic Dick Sixteen | 15m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Oct 2016 | ||||
Nice pockets.
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21 | ★ Beached DS | 15m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | Sun 16th Apr 2017 | |||||
Looks like a hold has broken off at start, so we avoided the start making it easier than 21 maybe only 18.
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21 | ★★ Ouzo Sushi - with Glenn, Alexandra Strudwick | 16m, 6 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Oct 2017 | ||||
Awesome climb so much fun! Super glad I chose this one over the 22/23.
Lots of good holds. Two cruxy spots.
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21 | ★★ Magic Dick Sixteen | 15m, 3 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | ||||
Short but good movement.
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21 | ★★ Milk and Honey - with Ari Landstra | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Jan 2020 | ||||
Quite nice! Big pockets to good edges
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21 | ★★ 13 Minutes (Criminal) - with Stephen Hawkshaw | 10m | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Jun 2020 | ||||
Great Hawkman warm ups
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21 | ★★ 13 Minutes (Criminal) | 10m | Coffs Harbour | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | |||||
Nice punchy route, but another looong reach! Felt tough.
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21 | ★ Wet Dreams - with Rhyan | 10m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Mon 12th Oct 2020 | |||||
Quite a fierce sequence.
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21 | ★ Beached DS - with Danny Ellen Drue Clarita | 15m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | Sun 27th Dec 2020 | |||||
Very stiff start for a 21!
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21 | ★★ 13 Minutes - with Pazi, Marius | 10m | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Jan 2021 | ||||
Nice juggy ledges for clipping, crux felt a bit reachy.
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21 | ★★ Milk and Honey - with Alex, Nina Reinhardt | 15m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | Sun 30th Jan 2022 | |||||
Excellent features, lots of fun.
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21 | ★★ Birthday Suit | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Tue 15th Feb 2022 | |||||
Rather good. Bouldery long reach to start but maintains interest all the way.
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21 ~23 | ★★ Ouzo Sushi - with Felix | 16m, 6 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Mon 16th Oct 2023 | ||||
A lot of beans were required
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20 | ★ Cosmic Energy | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | 2007 | ||||
One difficult move, then jugs to top
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20 | ★ Cosmic Energy | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sun 20th Apr 2003 | ||||
1 move wonder
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20 | ★★ You Can't Touch This | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Aug 2004 | ||||
Great fun
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20 | ★★ Bounty's Revenge | 15m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Tue 1st Apr 1997 | |||||
also 6.6.98
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20 | ★★ Bubble And Squeak | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th Aug 2004 | ||||
hole for top bolt present?? good cam placement near by
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20 | ★★ Black Beard ((Unknown 1)) | 8m | Coffs Harbour | Mon 8th Jun 1998 | |||||
I think it's Oops
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20 | ★★ You Can't Touch This | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Thu 30th Dec 2004 | ||||
With Robert. A one move wonder, but the one move is GREAT!
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20 | ★★ Light And Easy | 8m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sun 20th Apr 2003 | ||||
soft touch
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20 | ★★ Dead Heart | 15m | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Apr 2003 | ||||
bets route at Wonderlands at the grade
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20 | ★ Bitter Fingers | 10m | Coffs Harbour | Average | Fri 18th Apr 2003 | ||||
too short
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20 | ★★ You Can't Touch This | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Jun 2006 | ||||
one move, but what a move
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19 20 | ★★ John West | 12m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Tue 30th Aug 2011 | ||||
Mis-clipped second hanger without noticing and then noticed just AFTER the crux move!
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20 | ★★ Solar Flare | 13m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2012 | ||||
good climb, quite a lot easier than paranormal.
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20 | ★★ You Can't Touch This | 8m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Apr 2013 | ||||
really just a 2 or 3 move route, but those 3 were pretty sweet! would have maybe liked another bolt down low before the roof just for some added safety.
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19 20 | ★★ John West | 12m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Oct 2013 | ||||
warm up, fun route with one tricky move and nice climbing both sides of it.
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20 | ★★ Solar Flare | 13m, 4 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Oct 2013 | ||||
Nice fun warm up.
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19 20 | ★★ John West | 12m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★ Good | Mon 9th Dec 2013 | ||||
reachy for a short guy
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19 20 | ★★ John West | 12m, 5 | Coffs Harbour | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | ||||
Lots of fun, one of the better aretes in the area. Short but sweet and some great holds and sequences.
Put it on your must do list.
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