Ascents in Dangars Falls

Sam tooks photos, on flickr

fuckin scary

Really happy to finally get on this route. I think I first looked at Dangars 10 years ago and imagined what it would be like. Well, it was great and certainly delivered. Really good clean climbing in parts (particularly on P1-P3), but plenty of loose blocks (P3-P5), and a few chossy teetering towers here and there and we even a couple of passing showers thrown in the mix to keep us on our toes. Pretty good wire placements throughout despite the routes reputation, need to be careful with cam placements though this rock spits them out pretty easily. Probably a few sections that warranted a stiffer grade (16-17), but I guess that the nature of a choose your own adventure, slightly wandering route. Linked P1 & P2, seconded P3, linked P4 & P5. Climbed on twin 60’s. Good times

Epicly good route. Climbing days don't get much better than this. Paul and I rapped the falls with a 200m static (70m left over) and climbed out in a couple hours. The walk in was quite easy, but we were thinking of doing a couple routes in one day. We stayed left of the obvious ledgey chossy route (11?) and had about 3-4 significant cruxes on the route. Only about 15 total meters of loose rock, generally good stuff and pro where you need it. The hardest sections for us were getting to the ledge mentioned for the belay if p2-3. Then the steep juggy section into a sweet 3m handcrack at the first 10m of pitch 3. And then a good but hard finger crack (arcing left) about 40m from the top and the final topout (definitely not the crux of the route we took as the guide sugests) with some blank pro and mega exposure. Great day. But more like 16-17 than 14.

Epic and beautiful. We went of route almost all the way. It is "a little" bit sketchy with quite a lot of loose rocks at the last pitch.

Big time adventure! Easily one of the most scenic multis I've done awesome setting next to the waterfall, got quite wet. Not sure if we were on the right route the whole time but it was a complete choss fest! Very awesome topping out