Routes in The Secret Garden

Free soloed and downclimbed gingerly in hiking boots upon discovery of the area. First pitch is an easy beginner lead climb.

Pitch 1 (12). Either climb straight up the runnel to 1st belay/rap anchors using trad gear, or climb a metre or so left of the runnel using bolts to anchor. 4 bolts.

Pitch 2 (16). Directly up to top anchors. 3 bolts.

Rap or belay down to the 1st MV anchors, then rap to the base. Or just rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

Starts to the right of the Just Enough chimney.

Go directly up the crux, at half way, or it becomes a 15.

60m rope will get you near to the bottom and scramble the remaining few metres. Tie a stopper knot.

Update: The FA and co found a bolt on this route with glue soft, likely due to the epoxy not mixing evenly due to being at the end of the tube. So we checked every bolt at the crag again and this was the only bad one. We believe the rain must have washed it out, thus revealing its condition now and not earlier. We chopped it. It's a bit runout now at that point, but it is above the crux on easier climbing and near the top with no ground fall. Just wanted to give you a headsup before you climb it. When we get around to replacing the bolt we'll remove this update.

Runs up the chimney to the right of Round the Bend. When above the chimney, stick to the slabby slide all the way to the anchors. If you touch either side with your hands or feet, it reduces to a 12.

Starts to the right of Blow harder.

Be careful of the Monkey Rope vines. The flora here are precious, so please take care.

Descend via Blow Harder.

Easy start, clipping first bolt of Maiden Voyage, then slightle left and up to the right side of the chimney. Follow bolts up and then trend right to the Maiden Voyage top anchors, or continue to the DBPG anchors for some extra spice. Descend as per Warrior Princess.

Fun multi pitch climb for newbies or oldies alike.

P1 (14 or 16) Either climb Round The Bend or Just Enough up to the Secret Garden. 4 to 6 bolts, depending which route you climb as a first pitch.

P2 (17) Follow 8 bolts up to the shaded belay station. Crux is half way up; try not to cheat by going left or right or it becomes a 15.

P3 (15) Cross the rocky ledge to the right side, then follow disguised bolts up, trending right all the way to the anchors. 7 bolts.

Descend as per Quandary.

Update Sept 2023: The bolts no longer appear to be disguised. The camouflage used appears to have washed/worn off.

Fun climb at the grade with enough to keep you guessing, including where the bolts are.

P1 17/18, 30m Start at either Blow Harder or Pass the Brush. 7 bolts if climbing Blow Harder.

P2 17, 28m Follow the bolts up and rightward to anchors. 7 bolts. Climbs very close to Soiled Plans in places.

P3 17/16, 27m Choose either the LHV or RHV. Both fun and contrasting. Don't touch the loose rock on the LHV. 8 bolts on LHV.

Descent: Rap the RHV of the 3rd pitch. Then rap the 1st two pitches of Soiled Plans. Top 2 pitches are slight leftward abseiling so take care. Don't trample the flora, especially the Monkey Rope on the bottom pitch of Soiled Plans.

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of So Close. Shares the Just Enough anchors on the ledge to the right.

Easy start, clipping first bolt of Maiden Voyage, then trending left and up to just right of the tree at the base of the chimney. Climb the headwall, avoiding the right wall if possible or the grade drops significantly. Follow bolts up and then trend right to the Maiden Voyage top anchors, or continue to the DBPG anchors for some extra spice. Descend as per Warrior Princess.

Starts at the 1st anchors of MV. Up and veer right, then follow bolts up to DBPG anchors. Fun, slabby mental game. Descend as per DBPG.

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of Maiden Voyage.

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of Meh. Shares the Meh anchors.

Arguably the funnest multi pitch sport climb at the crag.

Starts to the right of Pass the Brush, up the groove under the trees. There are practice bolts and anchors in this groove to hone your lead and multi skills, while being in all day shade.

P1 17, 30m Straight up the groove, past the two sets of training anchors, then straight up.

P2 18, 30m Straight up, then follow the shiny bolts that veer off right and around the corner then up rightward between the trunks of a small, bifurcated tree. If you're following disguised bolts, you're on Quandary. However, just before the 2nd bush that you would normally climb below and around rightward, there is a steep, fun grade 21 variant on the left with disguised bolts (so you know it's different) that leads to a separate set of anchors. If following this variant, you'll end up climbing the RHV of the 3rd pitch of Quandary.

P3 21, 30m Straight up the flat wall. If you veer off the flat wall, you bring it down to an 18. Then straight up the grippy slab to the top.

Descend as per Quandary.

The proud right-trending arch/roof starting at the far left of the crag. Place gear in the crack on the left of the climb all the way to the anchors. Plenty to choose from. Avoid using any bolts. The FA used a full set of cams from micro to #6, plus some nuts and hexes, but you might be braver. Crux is the last few metres. Bolted top anchor. Rap or belay down to the 1st Maiden Voyage anchors, then rap to the base. Or rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

Easy start, clipping first bolt of Maiden Voyage, then trending left and up to the tree at the base of the chimney. Climb the left wall and follow bolts up and then trend right to the Maiden Voyage top anchors, or continue to the DBPG anchors for some extra spice. Rap or belay down to the 1st MV anchors, then rap to the base. Or rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

Super fun sport/trad/adventure/alpine summit route via The Secret Garden.

More info/updates to come. Some info is tentatively inserted as a guide.

The FA free soloed this while exploring the possibility but will return with a partner to gauge the length and to install anchors if need be.

Fun, bouldery 2nd pitch and cruxy start to 3rd.

P1 - 12, 30m Climb Needles or Maiden Voyage to the first belay station. Stay off the flora.

P2 - 18, 30m Enter the Secret Garden, following the left line 10m up to the 1st boulder move, placing gear on the left if you wish. 1st bolt is just below the boulder. Climb up and rightward to the anchors.

P3 - 22, 30m Climb the stiff boulder directly on it's left. Going around to the right reduces the grade to 15. Follow the spaced, disguised bolts up easy contour rightward to the top anchors, shared with Quandary and others.

Descend via Quandary.