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Routes as sport in Celestial Wall

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Showing all 12 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
18 Troposphere
1 15 30m
2 17 15m
3 18 15m
4 15 20m
5 16 30m
  1. 30m (15) 11 bolts. Starts about 30 metres to the left of the access track, marked with a 'T'. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

  2. 15m (17) 7 bolts. Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

  3. 15m (18) 6 bolts. This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

  4. 20m (15) Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

  5. 30m (16) Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness. Use long extenders (120cm+) for at least the first 5 bolts.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2004

Sport 110m, 5 Mt Tibrogargan
22 Aphelion
1 16 35m
2 21 12m
3 22 30m
4 22 10m

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall.

  1. 35m (16) At mark climb slightly left to first FH. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L. The fifth bolt is invisible. When the way appears blocked by a ferny ledge, climb onto the ledge via its left side and it should become apparent.

  2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on pedestal.

  3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

  4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2004

Sport 87m, 4 Mt Tibrogargan
23 Voyager
1 16 35m
2 21 12m
3 23 18m
4 17 30m

All protection is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is 10.

  1. 35m (16) First pitch is the same as Aphelion pitch 1.

  2. 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up Left. Powerful.

  3. 18m (23) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. A tricky little bouldering sequence.

  4. 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up from the belay and head right toward Halfway House. Once there, head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2004

Sport 95m, 4 Mt Tibrogargan
22 Rubicon
1 18 45m
2 22 30m
3 22 10m

Start: 10m R of Aphelion, below first FH.

  1. 45m (18) 15 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

  2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

  3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

Descent: Abseil back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2004

Sport 85m, 3 Mt Tibrogargan
14 Heliosphere

Up the slab passing ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just R of the access track. Marked with a small, scratched 'H'.

FA: Phil Box, 2004

Sport 35m Mt Tibrogargan
22 Latitudes

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

A long, exciting pitch.

FA: Lee Cujes

Sport 35m Mt Tibrogargan
22 Vernal Equinox

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

The line directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off.

FA: Phil Box Lee Skidmore, 2004

Sport 28m, 11 Mt Tibrogargan
21 Fat Shamed by Gravity
1 21
2 19

Start 10m left of Troposphere P1 on flat ground on the track leading towards Slider Gully.

  1. 30m 21 - Up fairly easy ground past 3 bolts to the first ledge which has a hanging on top of it. Up 2 large steps to a bolt and a couple of jugs. Haul yourself upwards on easy but impressive feeling moves to a cardboard feeling jug. Clip the next bolt and work your way through the crux moves. Clip another bolt and then traverse left and up to the obvious ledge to the belay anchors. A tight but bomber 0.5 camalot protects the traverse for the second.

  2. 28m 19 - Start out on easy ground up to an orange corner. Work your way up through the crux moves and a few more bolts. There is room to place another bomber 0.5 camalot to make the next section feel less run out, then up past 2 more bolts to the anchor.

Currently, the best option is to rap from here, although you can climb up through the bit of bush and link it to the mixed climb NGFG.

FA: Matt Hunter & Alex Cristino, 14 Mar 2021

Sport 60m, 2, 20 Mt Tibrogargan
24 Zenith

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.

Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2004

Sport 25m, 8 Mt Tibrogargan
18 C Section

Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's first pitch.

Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name. To reduce the traverse's spice to 'mild', bring some medium cams to minimise the risk of a scary pendulum swing.

FA: Phil Box & JJ O'Brien, 2007

Sport 25m Mt Tibrogargan
19 Rescision

Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's second pitch.

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

Sport 15m Mt Tibrogargan
The Man they couldn’t Shoot, Root or Electrocute

R of Zenith. Closed project for now.

SportProject Mt Tibrogargan

Showing all 12 routes.

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