Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Unknown | |||||||||
[unnamed] | Halls Gap Area | Thu 26th Oct 2023 | |||||||
Trad | |||||||||
13 |
★ RedTide
- with
Jonno Cawood
| 390m, 36 | Briggs Bluff Area | Average | Thu 15th Nov 2018 | ||||
Don't know if I'd use the word pleasant. Very adventurous climb, also very serious and would add an R rating. Make sure you're very comfortable at the grade. Potential for very big swings between solid pieces of pro and you're often on sandy fragile rock that readily crumbles under hand and foot. The belays that rely on cams are just barely enough to keep you sane.
All that being said, you get some great positions and the bolting seems solid enough. We bailed out after just before the 7th pitch by following up some FHs, pitty because the next few pitches had DBBs.
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16 | ★ RedTide - with Isaac Truman | 1000m, 36 | Briggs Bluff Area | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | ||||
Profound crux was bushbashing to the start of the route. Kinda amazingly bad climb to walk ratio given this is probably the longest route in australia. Route finding is easy, just follow the red line. Didnt place any nuts but placed purple totem pretty regualrly you could almost take triples if you want to protect the route.
Simuled everything except the 16 and 15 pitch which isaac had an epic on . 7 hours. With a few more bolts this could actually be a fun route.
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 9th Feb 1999 | ||||
5th go
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th May 2007 | ||||
Almost onsight - overshot the dyno! 2nd shot. Old school flavour.
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th May 2007 | ||||
Almost onsight - overshot the dyno!
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Dec 2006 | ||||
sore elbow stoped at the corner
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Feb 2013 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage - with Goshen | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Dec 2013 | ||||
WOW, what a dyno. Awkward to get there but made sure of the Dyno when i got there, 3rd Shot.
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27 | ★★★ Mirage - with danny wade, Troy McKenzie, Jimmy, Dick Lodge | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Oct 2019 | ||||
Fun route. Sneaked up this today on Troy’s gear which was awesome. This was pretty much the first route I tried on Taipan 20 odd years ago. Couldn’t do the dyno that time but got lucky this time!
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Oct 2019 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 24th Jan 2020 | ||||
2nd go. Got scared first go. Fell of undercling move and took a nice ride. Much easier with gear in.
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Mar 2023 | ||||
Brilliant unconventional trad climbing leads to the legendary dyno move, which is as big as they say.
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27 Easy | ★★★ Mirage — 3 attempts | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Mar 2023 | ||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage - with JakeSouthen | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 21st Mar 2023 | |||||
Second go
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27 ~26 |
★★★ Mirage P1
1
| 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 21st Mar 2023 | ||||
Perfect moves on perfect rock. Couldn’t ask for more
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Sat 1st Apr 2023 | |||||
Connected the dyno on the flash attempt but couldn’t hold it. 2nd attempt screwed the undercling. 3rd attempt send. What a move!
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27 |
★★★ Mirage P1
1
| 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Apr 2023 | ||||
need longer arms and springier legs
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||||
27 ~26 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Apr 2023 | ||||
Must believe you are a froggy. Soft for 27, since I did it third shot. Malcolm is planning to replace the crux bolt some point soon, but we didn't have time today.
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27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Thu 25th Apr 2019 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage — 3 attempts | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Aug 2023 | ||||
Quite the move! Fell off on the undercling move on the OS attempt.
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Mr. Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Fri 1st Jun 2001 | |||||
pitch 1
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Oct 2005 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | 2001 | ||||
Fun and easy for the grade.
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | 2002 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Oct 2006 | ||||
sustained, walk in a bit crap
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Good | Thu 5th Oct 2006 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Mr. Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | 1999 | ||||
nice historical climbing
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Apr 2006 | ||||
Sustained and difficult for 18 - although I'm crap at slab climbs. Jules 2nd
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Thu 24th Jan 2002 | |||||
First pitch only
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Good | Mon 12th Apr 2004 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th Mar 2001 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Apr 2003 | ||||
would be better if the bolts wern't so crap
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 1st Apr 1998 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Good | Sun 21st Nov 2004 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Mar 2005 | ||||
Niice groovy slabbing on carrots.
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Dec 2003 | ||||
what a unique feature! a concave groove in a slabby wall...stemming, slabbing, straining. not so tough just balancy. thanks to neils new carrots this climb is now well worth it!
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18 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | 2004 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Dec 1999 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Oct 2009 | ||||
I found this really scary and a very difficult lead. Very happy I had a crack at it though. Would've preferred to have had some bolt plates instead of using wires...
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 11th Apr 2007 | ||||
great moves the whole way
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Mar 2003 | ||||
ring bolt broken after fall(5th bolt)
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Average | Fri 1st Apr 2005 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Oct 2006 | ||||
sensational sustained slopeyness
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Oct 2012 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Mon 4th Mar 2013 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 18th Apr 2013 | ||||
Onsight 1997
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 26th Apr 2013 | ||||
Have only done pitch1.. I'll log pitch 2 as another tick when I get it... Friggin amazing.. this route has loads going for it... loved it.. took 3 shots to get it because I just didn't have juice at the crux after 3 days on... Need to start remembering beta also.
Don't shortchange yourself a nice victory whipper at the end... perfect end to an amazing climb |
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Sep 2013 | ||||
Sustained and slabby. With Peter, Simone and Em
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25 |
★★★ Mr Joshua P1
1
25
| 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Nov 2013 | ||||
25 |
★★★ Mr Joshua (Mr Joshua P1)
1
25
| 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 5th Jul 2013 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua - with Róisín | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Average | Sat 1st Nov 2014 | ||||
Put the gear up
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua - with Róisín | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Average | Sat 1st Nov 2014 | ||||
Dog. First time on it in a couple years. This time I wrote down all the beta I forgot since last time!
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua - with Matt J | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Dec 2014 | ||||
Got a bit intimidated by a move on the arete and handed over the lead.
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Mon 2nd Feb 2015 | |||||
18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Mon 2nd Feb 2015 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua - with Ben | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Mon 30th Mar 2015 | |||||
Finally, first tick on Taipan
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua - with Steve Cooper | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 28th May 2015 | ||||
More aesthetic than the Fist for me, awesome sloper pump fest, tricky crux, pump it past a fixed wire and a cam, lap up a rest, then 10 metres of big moves on incredible rock to the chains.. Brilliant. Mandatory Victory whip of course.. ! 4th shot
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 3rd Jun 2015 | ||||
Stoked to do Taipan classic.
Very much a head game. Climbing itself is not particularly hard. Took me 5 goes in total over the space of two years. |
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25 |
★★★ Mr Joshua
1
25
| 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Oct 2015 | ||||
Went up with the intend of putting the gear and try the moves. Got shut down by the crux.
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25 |
★★★ Mr Joshua
1
25
| 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Oct 2015 | ||||
With the gear in, dog my way up to try the move. The lower crux felt fine once I found a good beta. The upper crux feels almost harder, I can see it being an issue on the redpoint.
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25 |
★★★ Mr Joshua (Mr Joshua P1)
1
25
| 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Oct 2015 | ||||
went up to work the move
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25 |
★★★ Mr Joshua (Mr Joshua P1)
1
25
| 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Oct 2015 | ||||
Link up to the first crux but powered out. Refined my beta for the upper part and the upper crux
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24 | ★★ Moon Safari | 50m, 12 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Tue 29th Mar 2016 | ||||
Scary at the end
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th May 2016 | ||||
top rope attempt.. felt pretty manageable until the crux..
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Mon 7th Nov 2016 | |||||
Beautiful climb! 2nd shot after mucking up final crux before the big throw on the onsight.
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26 |
★★★ Mr Joshua (Mr Joshua P1)
- with
Stuart Boyd
1
| 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Dec 2016 | ||||
Popped my Taipan Cherry!
Rested on the cam and pushed on to the crux. Several attempts at the crux but couldn't get through. Will have to go back.
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Mon 12th Jan 2015 | |||||
Defo not 25!
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26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua | 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 7th Apr 2017 | ||||
absolutely awesome route. so much fun!
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24 | ★★ Moon Safari | 50m, 12 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sat 11th Nov 2017 | ||||
did it staying on the left at the moss section. tried a few times to the right, where the bolts are but felt harder than the grade
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18 20 | ★★ Spillway | 75m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Jan 2018 | ||||
Really good no hold, bum sloper slabbing. Felt like solid 20 to me.
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25 |
★★★ Mr Joshua
1
25
50m
2
| 50m, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 14th Apr 2017 | ||||
First pitch only, worked out the second pitch dyno, need to get back on it and tick the whole thing.
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