Routes as trad in Harrop Track

The best route in the area of it's grade. Starts 4m right of A Burnt Out Case at small roof/overlap. Seams and horizontals to open book corner and tricky final face.

The grey face around right of the cave. Up weird chimney-crack, left along horizontal and climb pocketed wall above.

Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt.

Start on the left of the grey arete.

Follow 2 BR to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another bolt for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Anchors to descend to the right on top of The Extension Lead or walk off back.

Climb up pillar into large crack, follow up over bulge, traverse right on horizontal seam to centre of the face, then straight up line to ledge before roof, chains are on right of ledge.

The enjoyable vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft to the terrace. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately (Turning Turtle) There is a rap anchor above YTTDF

Nice line, nice climbing. Good rock. Retro-bolted accidentally.

Step on chockstone below open book corner in the middle of the wall to gain good horizontal break. Move right on mossy slab into corner proper. Up past FH to steep well protected conclusion. Rap station on ledge.

The grey wall just before the entrance to the gully.

Up subtle wall, starting from small platform immediately right of orange section.

Wall straight up and right of Golden Ghetto Greper.

One of the best. Big central line of the cliff. Starts in middle of wall left of bird poo. Mantle past amazing hole and up slopes past FH to stance (fist sized cam). Tricky moves up and left under roofs past 2 FHs leads to an airy traverse past an old piton (back up with small cam), then a final gnarly bulgy crack with fixed nut. Finish as for Cloud Nine. 3 FHs & Trad.

Classic climbing up the middle of the black slab. It gets an R rating due to a few exciting runouts, although gear shows up when it's needed - except for the final moves from which you do not want to fall off.

A damn fine route which sees a lot of wingers off the crux move. Starts from the blocks left of the cave on the L side of 'Red Rain' Wall. Up easily to traverse right along horizontal crack to under the bulge. An easy dyno or mega reach is needed to reach the lip. Continue up obvious line to a stance. Short easy crack on right (which leads to rap chains) or if you still have some go go juice swing left up exciting juggy wall.

Good line, pity about the poor rock quality and fiddly/crap protection. Not worth a star in my opinion.

Start: About 4-5m right up the arete (start off the big boulder to it's right).

Up the arete then left to finish up "Do You Mind If I Smoke?" and rap off at the ledge.

Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of "Hot Cross".

Up technical corner to middle of roof and traverse easily left to stance. Scramble off left to rap tree on Hot Cross. There was originally a second pitch up corner and bulge but it adds little value.

Up 'Flashman' to its first bolt, then follow the large flake feature skywards, past the occasional hollow block, to a piton and a FH. Belay off a tree at the top.

The best line on the wall is now renamed. Starts at the right end of the obvious dyke and follows it all the way back left, finishing at the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'. Take a number three rock or one camalot for between the second and third bolts. You also need a couple of small cams for the last section.

Start off ledge on right side of face. Up through bulge and tend right.

A very fine pitch. The unpopular second pitch is written up separately.

A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of "Little Escapes" at a thin line just left of arete.

Thin line then step right to shallow corner on arete. Up corner to ledge just right of large roof. Step left above the roof (?large cam handy) and climb leftwards up the face.

Great line up the centre of the wall. Committing start on pockets up to bolts & crack/overlaps, crossing A Burnt Out Case halfway.

Start: Just right of 'The Generator Route'.

Up past 3 FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 4th FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay.

Start up Hippy Chick and continue directly up face above.

follow crack on R side of arete until it ends at horizontal. A few moves up the face takes you to crack and arete to top.

Start on ledge. Up and left to ledge of capping block. You can go directly up and over roof at 21.

Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for "Snail".

1. 25m (18) Onto the rotten chockstone and take right-hand line to terrace.

2. 25m (18) Up a series of walls to the top.

Used to be graded 27, it is probably easy for 26. The obvious finish to this great route. Instead of veering off left after the first bolt continue straight up past a second bolt. Both bolts are new (2012) and there is a rap anchor above.

An excellent pumper! Up the crack of White Pointer for a few metres, then boldly wobble your way right to ramp and up to ledge. Four carrot bolts lead the way. Belay off a tree at the top.

The slabby grey wall right of Head Over Heels Start at obvious tree, up to left end of huge cave, continue up line above.

Variant finish to Bug Powder Dust.

Starts at the BR off the ledge, as for 2nd pitch of Bug Powder Dust. Climb the left side of the pale central streak directly through top bulge. Swing right to top out (or continue straight up for a more exciting finale). Blackness courtesy of the previous week’s Vicparks “controlled burn” (and it's a quote from The Commitments).

Climb the leaning corner to a roof. Scary moves gain the lip of the roof. Hand traverse left to a shallow corner and pull up for a rest. finish easily.

Up corner. Finish up crack on the L.

Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of "Tortoise". Climb the best bit of the wall past a bolt then veer left to easier ground.

Takes in the cruxes of both routes. Start up MeB at the dike move into TGD.

The obvious easy-angled arete at the top of the gully.

Start on the face left of and at right-angles to Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat at a crack.

Follow the crack past a bush and on to a tree near the overlap (belay possible). Continue through the overlap an up.

A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing.

Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-crack in a black face.

Climb the crack up the black face to a ledge (belay possible). Continue in the shallow corner which fades out below the final exciting bulge.

Enjoyable as long as you don't fall off.

Start: Start a metre or so right of "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat".

1. 20m (16) Head diagonally right to the ledge and bushes halfway up the right arete of the wall

2. 20m (8) Up the arete, as for "Black Feral cat, An Undeniable Truth".

Spectacular with outrageous situations, and best done in one pitch. Equipped with a mix of rings and FHs, supplement with a full rack of cams.

Starts a few metres left of IHTR. Can also start up RR.

Pull onto shelf and traverse left to blocks. Up to stance below hanging jug (often sandy). Into shallow hanging corner, then continue up and right to overhang and a rest (original route belayed here). Make an exposed traverse leftwards, going straight up at incut jug to finish at lower-offs (27m to the ground).

The grey wall 2 metres right of Lethargic Liver. Pull past tiny overlap and up slabby wall above.

Impressive roof climb in a truly spectacular setting.

Start from back of block (FH) at end of pinnacle.

Up corner to ledge. Step R then up bulges to rest. Step up to FH then monkey R on unexpected buckets. Turn the roof at scoop. Swing R to finish up white water wash then slightly L to RB lower off (note: near 50m lower off to top of pinnacle - tie rope end to belay FH).

Meaty. In the centre of the wall is an appealing Arapilisean flake crack. Follow this to where it almost joins the shallow corner on the left. Continue right and up to terrace. Be careful of hollow flake in the middle.

As for the 22, but Traverse R across break and up to 2nd BR. Quite runout getting to the 2nd bolt, but moves are not hard.

Arete on left side of wall, capped by big block.

The machine gun is beautiful. An excellent start leads to a finish where the crux seems to be avoiding the neighbouring routes.

The leftmost route on the wall starts from the ledge above the waterfall with a powerful undercut start. Climb past five FHs to reach the dyke, then head diagonally leftwards (ie climb above the dyke, but don't get drawn to the bolt above - that is for 'The Gloaming') past a couple of small cam placements to the anchor.

An alternative finish is to head straight up from the dyke (past a 0.4 camalot placement) to join the last 2 FH of 'The Gloaming'.

Start: At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall. Committing moves up thin crack, move right and up overhang for five metres, veer left with easier climbing to the top. Continuing straight up makes for a more sustained finish.

The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description)

Start: At the line that splits the wall.

Climb crack, at the overhang, traverse right and finish up the right hand crack. Some loose rock. Take twin ropes or long slings, could be done in 2 pitches, with a belay at the end of the traverse.

Up flake crack right of A Burnt Out Case, up past bolt and slightly left.

Quite thin climbing up a steely-grey "slab". Take lots of small wires. Thin seam up grey face right of chimney-cleft.

The left side of War Wall is comprised of grey and orange "bums. Start on the left side of a flake. Originally climbed in two pitches. Climb onto ledge and make balancy moves past bolt to jugs. At the ledge, move right and climb the steep, well-protected wall.

Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall.

Good first pitch.

Start: Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall. 2nd Pitch ascends a difficult R leading diagonal line visible just R of prow.

1. 25m (19) Up onto rotten chockstone and take left-hand line to terrace.

2. 25m (19) Move up right and climb diagonal crack-line.

Obvious R leading jam crack.

Start at ramp 8 metres right of Slug. Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge.

Good traverse leads to great final crack.

Start: Start under the huge block that leans against the left edge of the wall, 15-20 metres right of

1. 10m (9) Climb up through a hole to the top of the block and then up to terrace.

2. 15m (19) Traverse right along the brek to the vertical line and up a couple of moves to a hanging belay.

3. 10m (20) Crack to top.

A classic at the grade.

The centre of the face left of Wimp's Picnic

Thrilling pitch at head of descent gully.

Climb the left edge of the slab to a tree. Bridge short corner behind tree to ledge. Hand-traverse right to the undercut arete which is followed to the top.

A sustained face, neglected for several months after bolting.

Start: The 4m direct start to the ledge has been done but awaits a bolt. In the meantime, start 4m further left beneath 'The Thin Red Line', where a good wire protects the moves to the ledge.

Move 4m R on ledge, then climb the face 3m L of the thin crack (Edge Burner), past 3FH, med-large wires and a #1.75Fr. The high DRB anchor can be accessed from above.

A frustrating crux. The prominent middle crack-line on the orange wall. Stepped corner-crack to ledge. Step right and up line to a slippery crack (awkward to clip FH on left). After difficulties step left and up steep wall.

Backs off a little on arete, but keeps you working till the end.

Start 8m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat on the black streak.

Up to 2nd FH taking heed of the flexible block on the left. Head left then back right above 2nd FH to gain a rest in the grey corner. Swing around right of the arête to FH and up to the long blunt grey arête above. Climbing is often just left of the arête with adequate gear on the arête proper.

Funky 3D climbing is both unnerving and exciting. Thin crack/seam at edge of chimney cleft, 3 metres left of Tortology until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up.

slab up black streak past a carrot to crack.

Classy crack climbing, pretty solid at the grade. Up obvious line in the middle of the wall above the creek.

Left off Ledge and up via overlap to BR. Past this via a very thin move and up wall on great pockets.

A good, sustained climb.

Start: Start at thin crack just right of the arete left of "Irish IUD"

1. 20m (19) Up the thin crack until able to move left to a flake-line on the arete. When the flake ends, traverse left to the base of a crack in the centre of the wall and a tiny stance.

2. 35m (20) Up the crack with some hard moves when it thins down and leads diagonally left. Either top out and walk off or use RCB rap station (28m to ground).

Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

Tiring. On the left wall of the gully. Steeply up to BR, a few fingery moves, step left and then up.

Enjoyable and quite exposed.

Start: Start a few metres right of "The Wayfarer" at a crack leading to an arete at 7 metres.

1. 67m (10) Climb crack to arete and follow arete for 60 metres.

2. 55m (10) Move right on the wall and go up.

The major corner line through the centre of the wall offers a fine adventure. Mossy and loose. Has been led in two pitches.

1. 30m (18) Climb the corner to the first roof.

2. 10m (19) Go right under the first roof and belay just above. The footholds on this pitch are very mossy!

3. 20m (20) Jam underneath the next roof (crux) and up the corner to a brilliant belay beneath the third roof.

4. 10m (17) Continue up and traverse under the next roof.

5. 30m (10) Climb the stegosaurus wall to the Operating Theatre.

Lovely line on beautiful rock.

Start as for No Head For Heights and follow the thin line to the left edge of the roof. Swing left and finish up the steep crack.

A full value pitch.

Zig-zag crack 3 metres left of Not Waving But Drowning until it ends. Move right to an incipient corner. Up this then traverse left a fair distance to a vertical crack which takes you straight to the top via the centre of the summit block.

A superb piece of rock but tends to be a bit damp after rain.

The crack up the wall 15 metres left of Not About Heroes.

Currently ('24) quite vegetated, could do with a clean up

A fun experience on an easy arete high on the hillside.

1. 40m (11) Start at the very toe of the slab. The start is tricky then things ease to a large terrace.

2. 46m (8) From the terrace continue up the left arete of the corner until just below the bulge that runs across the face.

3. 30m (11) Climb the bulge via a crack on the left then step back right to the arete and continue to the top.

Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above.

Start: Starts approx. 2 to 3m right of bolt on 'Controlled Burn' and 4m left of the right arête.

Will clean up with traffic.

Starts on the ledge at FH 2m left of 'Controlled Burn'.

Up to shallow corner to rap anchor.

Best route at the crag.

Start: Start as for May Day. At May Day's traverse left continue straight up corner and start of head wall past three BR's to break, #3 camalot, then continue past one more BR (hard clip) to run it out to the top (possible wires).

Very thin seam up the face left of A Burnt Out Case, belay when easier ground is reached.

Right hand variant of Do You Mind If I Smoke, start 5 metres to right., Below crack/seams at R end of cave. Gymnastic start up jugs and crack, then trend up and L up horizontals and bulges till you join " Do You Mind If I Smoke" at its crux.

An appealing finger crack.

Start: Located on the far left end of the wall (20m left of Wonga Park). It can be difficult to reach when the water is up.

1. 18m (19) Climb the overhanging finger crack and traverse left to a ledge.

2. 10m (14) Easily up corner.

Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.

Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack.

Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.

Start In the middle of the second tor down from Bug Powder Dust. Climb past loose block up shallow unprotected crack.

Big time cave climbing up right side of the orange wave.

Scramble in from the left side onto belay ledge 15m from the ground. Belay off single FH.

Head up and right easily for 8m to small ledge and UB. Take a breath and start climbing up and out past eight bolts in incredible positions to finish in small cave. Hard moves are at third and sixth bolts. Good foot jams, knee bars and leg slots can be found for recovery all the way up. Use a 60m rope for lower-off and tie a knot in the end!

Bridging moves lead to a good jam-crack almost in the chimney corner.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Just Right" just left of a chimney-cleft.

His block.

Go up the right-hand arete of the outcrop, step left at the bulge and up the line.

Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux).

Start: Starts as for 'Moonlight Mile'

Start in the same place as Fiery God.

Trend left up the slabs to below the orange streaks in the overlaps. Through the overlaps via the orange streaks and continue up over another bulge to finishing finger cracks.

Meanders up the buttress right of "Downpour". Take the weakness leading right to a large ledge. Scramble up.

Good line with a hard finish. Only worth the grade if you take into consideration the horrific rope drag that is likely to be experienced.

Amble up the slabby corner, move left under the first overlap, then left again under the second overlap to reach the left arete. Now swing up right above the roof and go up the wall.

Up right leaning crack system over the technical bulge and up to the break. Traverse to the DBB above Black Iron

Start: 5m left of Black Iron

Campbell Mercer repeated and named this route that had previously been written up as a variant to Savage God.

Start up Savage God then take flakes up the right wall. At the final roof, traverse right or go over the roof.

Great sustained jamming.

The major diagonal crack at the left end of the cave.

A bit unlikely. Start at the same spot as Horizon, but blast straight up past three FHs and natural gear to anchor at top. Might be harder than 24 for shorties.

Novelty climbing through overhang, lack of protection at start.

Start: Runs up centre of the wall at the top of the grotto through the orange overhang.

Up edges on slab to stance below overhang, veer left then up to anchor.

Up the corner and face to the horizontal break. Traverse right to belay as for "Begegnung"

Start: Start 6 metres left of "Begegnung"

Watch out for the pile of bricks. Climb the middle of the central buttress, starting up the right-slanting corner.

Start right of Stalingrad and move up to slots. Hard moves left into Stalingrad (BR, PR) which is followed to the horizontal. Move right and up to small ledge. Continue up weakness then move left and up grey wall when level with overhang. Finish as for Stalingrad.

On the right wall of the three buttresses is a large flake system. Climb easily up to the roof. Traverse left under the roof and go up the crack.

Pull up the line of buckets. Start on the left side of the orange face at a grey section.