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Routes as trad in Sabre Gully

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
15 Glory Without Power

Could be more direct.

Start: Start on the gully face of the 'Median' buttress around R of the overhang system. Just left of burnt out pine tree left of Grep at entrance of Chasm. Up the steep wall for 7m then left along horizontal to arête and face above. Abseil off rock bollard.

Feb 2019 - access blocked by new baby trees growing at base. Could possibly step across onto face from ledge with burnt out pine tree on R, but this cuts out the first 2m of the climb.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1991

Trad 15m Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
19 Coolsville

An easy option.

Start: Start below a groove below and L of the L-hand line. Step off boulder and climb the wall (FH) into an easy groove that leas to a ledge at 7m, up steep crack and follow it left to arête. Abseil anchor up right.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Allan Hope, 1992

Trad 20m Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
20 The Tenth Dancer

The survivor in a war of attrition. Double ropes (and knowing how to use them!) are helpful.

Start: Start as for 'Coolsville' to ledge at 7m. Traverse right (medium hex), up right leaning crack. Rap anchor to the right.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1994

Trad 25m Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre

Showing all 3 routes.

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