Ascents in Taipan Wall - North

5th go

Almost onsight - overshot the dyno! 2nd shot. Old school flavour.

Almost onsight - overshot the dyno!

sore elbow stoped at the corner

WOW, what a dyno. Awkward to get there but made sure of the Dyno when i got there, 3rd Shot.

Fun route. Sneaked up this today on Troy’s gear which was awesome. This was pretty much the first route I tried on Taipan 20 odd years ago. Couldn’t do the dyno that time but got lucky this time!

2nd go. Got scared first go. Fell of undercling move and took a nice ride. Much easier with gear in.

Brilliant unconventional trad climbing leads to the legendary dyno move, which is as big as they say.

Second go

Perfect moves on perfect rock. Couldn’t ask for more

Connected the dyno on the flash attempt but couldn’t hold it. 2nd attempt screwed the undercling. 3rd attempt send. What a move!

need longer arms and springier legs

Must believe you are a froggy. Soft for 27, since I did it third shot. Malcolm is planning to replace the crux bolt some point soon, but we didn't have time today.

Quite the move! Fell off on the undercling move on the OS attempt.

With HB - fell on crux #1, lowered back.

Last day of trip, last shot, sun setting, belayed by HB himself. What's better than Mega Classic? 7th shot over 4 days. I can quit climbing now.

With Neil - fell on crux #1 then to top cleanly

With HB - fell 5m from top. 100% effort. Almost cried.

With JJ - fell on crux #1. Then had to replace all JJ's trad gear with my gear because he ticked it - exhaustion!

With JJ - sat before crux #1

A dream come true just to be up there. Got all the moves, only two really hard sections, but a massive enduro fest. Absolutly freakin amazing! Phsyched to get back on it!

The best! 7 goes.

First day on this awesome route (talking top pitch only here, will get the bottom out of the way later). Romain got it clean third shot, couldn't believe it! I can do all the moves, just got to spend a couple weekends on it and it'll go. FYI for anyone leaving a draw on the first bolt - watch the webbing where it rubs against the rock, it was looking pretty burred...

An outrageous route. 2nd try after dogging. Bit of a marathon. One of my forearms blew up solid and I camped out for 15 mins at the last rest before it went down. Very satisfying.

2nd pitch only.

Fell from the very, final move on Saturday (6th time on it), then got it Sunday (7th go on it)...surprisingly, very seedy from the night before... The jump off the top was almost as good as doing the route itself...don't short-change yourself!

Got it second go. What a fantastic route.

Attempt 4 after a 3-year break. Amazing route as always. No gear on the route, so went up this time to put the gear on. Didn't get past the first crux but lucky Hood did. Left gear there for 2 weeks total.

Attempt 5 and 6 - much better than yesterday, just 3 falls in places. remembering the moves

Attempt 6 and 7. Fared much better than earlier in the trip, just the first crux to figure out - can do the rest no problem (fat-fingered-crux is a bit of a percentage-move but not so much as the first crux).

Attempt 8. New beta for the first crux! - get foot up to smear then throw with left hand, not right. Worked wonderfully twice in a row. I got really excited holding the break as I thought maybe I had it in the bag. Unfortunately made a mistake at the fat-fingered-crux and fell, then fell again on the easy moves just after that. Won't make the same mistakes again.

Attempt #9. Second shot today I was a lot more tired/dehydrated so didn't recover as well on the jugs as I did on the first shot. Again breezed through the first crux (new beta is awesome) and fell at the second. Also plenty of times after that, haha! Really feel like I have this route very soon - maybe next time I'm there! Came down cleaning the route this time.