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Routes as sport in Spurt Wall

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
22 Spurting Mildly

Warmup route of the crag. Fun scoopy moves and a nice pump. Three RB's.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

Sport 12m, 3 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
24 Dial-A-Lama

Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular, despite being very solid for the grade. Once had a reputation for silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV.

FA: Martin Lama, 1995

Sport 15m, 7 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 This Spurting Life

Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Sport 12m, 3 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 Weak Boy

Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013.

Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama.

FA: garry phillips

Sport 12m, 5 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
25 Menstrual as Anything (DS)

V4 boulder problem start (stickclip) which adds an extra star to Menstrual and, since the demise of Menstrual's tree, is easily the best way to do Menstrual. Re-bolted 2013.

FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2004

Sport 18m, 7 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
23 Lord of the Jerks

Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

Sport 9m, 3 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
27 Not Too Bad

Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!

FA: Simon Carter

Sport 18m, 6 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
28 Spurt Girl

Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.

FA: Nic Sellars (UK), 1998

Sport 15m, 4 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
29 Tyranny

Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 1998

Sport 12m, 4 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
23 Pussy Galore

Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Sport 8m, 3 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
25 Menstrual as Anything

Pretty snappy.

Start: It used to bridge up a pathetic tree ... which is now gone. A big stick clip is probably the best way to sample this original version of the route (but the newer direct start described above makes it a lot better so why not just do that). Apparently the bridging section can be climbed at very bouldery 27 or so. Yet another alternative is to boulder in from the right on pockets (grade 25 and easier if you are tall and don\'t mind broken ankles).

FA: Donna Bridge, 1994

Sport 17m, 5 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
29 Fabio's Route

An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!).

FA: nic sellars

Sport 15m, 6 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
27 Sticky Fingers

Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold.

Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2000

FFA: Simon Young, 2013

Sport 15m, 5 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 Custard Chucker

The direct version of Weaky Boy, less slopers and more pockets!

FA: Simon Young, 2013

Sport 12m, 5 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
23 I'd Rather Be Wanking

Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

Sport 8m, 3 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
25 Splutter

Starts 2m left of Dial-A-Lama. Stickclip first ringbolt. Bouldery start then a few good bulges, pockets and slopes before being confronted with a confounding sequence to reverse into the upper crux of Dial-A-Lama. Finish right as for that route past its last bolt to rap chain. Seven bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2006

Sport 17m, 7 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
28 Naughty Tickle Town

The trad placement has now been retroed - silly poms can keep using the #2.5 Fr if they wish. Another new bolt has thankfully straightened the half height deviation to the right, eliminating the ridiculous tough cross-through clip of the 'Academia' bolt.

Start: Start from near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse, about 5m R of Kaa.

FA: Richard Heap, 1996

Sport 15m, 5 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 Nights in Venice

Start below twin pockets. Lunge to jug. 'Excellent' top crux. A climb worth a good look.

Equipped by Simon Ozolins in the mid 90s, but with a crappy start a bit further right (indicated by 15a in the topo).

Start: Start where the Menstrual tree used to be (3m R of the new Menstrual start).

FA: Kent Paterson & early, 2009

Sport 16m, 8 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
25 Wide World of Spurtz

Allegedly has some good moves.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Sport 9m, 3 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
31 Academia

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

Sport 15m, 5 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 Bottom Feeder

Up Menstrual then head right past a few more bolts, should be more popular but run out at the crux.

FA: Garry Phillips

Sport 18m Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
30/31 Lifestyling

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Sport 20m, 6 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
32 Who's a Naughty Boy?

The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain.

FA: Equipped (and Un-Equipped) by Gordon Poultney. First Free Ascent by Garth Miller & then re-established after Gordy's tantrum by Nathan Hoette., 1998

Sport 20m, 6 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
32 Tyranny Into Lifestyling

The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

Sport 17m, 6 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
30 Cripple Nipple

Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

Sport 17m, 8 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Nathan Project 1

Another desperate project by the H man. Five cheapskate 90' hangers. Another long slopy wall climb.

FA: Equipped & worked by Nathan Hoette, 2000

Sport 17m, 5 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre

Showing all 26 routes.

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