Routes in Handsome Crag

Start on the double gastons a couple of tricky moves and a desperate swing will get you established onto The Never Ending Story, finish as for this.

Sit start on the opposing side pulls, a big pull brings you up to the nose then up and right to top of the boulder.

The awesome steep arete. Traverse left to jugs about two thirds the way up.

The striking highball arete on the main face of the boulder. Sit start on the jug at the bottom of the arete, lob up to the sloper and continue up past edges and pockets before cruising up the highball victory head wall. The easiest way down is to down climb the headwall and jump onto the pads.

Start around the arete left of Iyora, up to small pocket and then mantle left.

Start as for Ball and Chain and make your way right, topping out on Sledgehammer, pumpy climbing.

Up face and finish straight up.

Hang Start - Undercut face on far left of boulder to sloper finish

The main face with two cracks spilling down it. Start with the left hand in the three-finger pocket and the right hand on the edge at the bottom of the crack, bust up using underclings and side pulls. There is a direct sit-start to go using two sloping edges on the face below.

Standing start on an undercling/sidepull with the right hand and a bad edge with the left, head up and left through a series of slopey edges.

Stand - Start on the big jugs in the middle of the wall, head up and then punch out right to top out in the same place as Illuminatie.

Stand - Start as Rightly Illuminated but bust right into Ruination day and Illuminatie finish. Maybe just a bit harder than Ruination but maybe not significantly.

Start as for Hang Me Up, traverse right and finish up Chain Gang. Originally grade V7 but after some of Tassies' hottest talent failed to send it V8 seems like a more appropriate grade ;-)

Sit start from two crimps. Stand start off opposing side pulls is about V2.

An ultra classic problem. Sit start on the obvious jug and head up the wall into the committing finishing moves. If you brake the cimps off at the start please put them somewhere safe.

Start matched on incut diagonal hold a couple of metres left of Sledgehammer, up to top jugs.

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Starting on the right hand pocket and left hand pinch. Up shallow crack without using arete.

From low rail, ip middle of the steep face, finishing left.

Stand - Slab through little bulge. Harder than it looks.

Start matched on the one-pad edges on the steepest part of the wall, head up and left to top out.

The obvious sit-start on two edges heading up the face below the main arête of the boulder.

The classic high arete on the right edge of the J'Aimerais Bien Francais wall.

Stand - Start on the jug at the right hand end of the wall, head straight up the face to top out.

Stand - Starting on the jugs at head height up to the corner of the seam, past a crimp rail, to join Everything is Illuminated (a left healhook on the jugs is key). Probably a touch harder than Everything is Illuminated but not much.

Up on pockets from right hand side of the scoop on the left side of the wall.

It's very hard to say how hard this is, maybe around V-6ish. Sit start with your right hand on the bottom most hold on the flake and the left hand on a small edge, slap up the flake to the jugs and head up the easy top out.

The tall line up the prominent black streak. A classic highball with the crux exactly where it's supposed to be, at the top.

Start left hand in crack. bad feet and bust up to big sledge hammer jug.

Start right hand on the pinch and left on the gaston, up to slope then big pull to the top.

Start on pockets then up and left to the big sloper - still awaiting a topout.

Start at narrow pocket, move left to arete and up

Up left side of prow to the jugs above the old carrot. Continuing on towards the prow will tale some balls.

Stand start using undercling, up through bulge on slopers and crimps, a fun problem. The hard sit start is a project.

Stand - Tricky slab

Start just right of the corner crack at a flat hold. Move right then up via slopers.

The undercut righthand arete. Traverse the lip on slopers then up.

Line 1m left of Rope a Dope, to same top out

Slopers just right of the tree

The right most and easiest problem on the wall. Sit start on the juggy rail and head up and rightish. V-5ish??

SDS. Up and rightish on positive jugs, shallow pockets, and a rail, before moving back slightly left for high topout. Welcome to classicville.

The classic of the boulder. Start as for There Were the Pepper Grows but head straight up on the right side of the arête.

Sit start in the slopey break and head up before busting out left under the arête to finish on the left face.

Ca va's more difficult twin.

On R side of face - big pull from horizontal to horizontal then up over top.

Nice face with slopers. Start on the edges below the big sloper. Take a grade or so off if you stack the pads up and start on the sloper.

Start as Vitriol then chuck left to a flake and continue left via crimps to top out on the obvious horn. Bring a couple pads or helmet.

Start on the same sloping jugs as The Panics, do it's crux move and then go right and hug your way up the belly of the boulder.

Stand - Start at a good side pull of "Bug, Power, Dust" then up to rail and veer right past sidepulls and slaps to finish near "Don't fight it". Refuse the temptation to use left crack system. A little Contrived.

Start up the crack a couple of metres left of Crack of Doom. Move right into Crack of Doom at the Top. Good moves and improving rock as you go higher, a tad committing but with a flat landing.

SDS - The footwork beta problem. Up the centre of the face from a stistart. Harder if you're short.

Very nice flakes up left side of steep face. Head right to finish.

A great sustained problem. Start at the back of the cave on the underclings, work your way through the cave finishing on the jugs above the lip.

On the far right side of the boulder, just right of a thin crack. Start on edges, a couple of hard moves leads to jugs.

Start at low pockets 1m left of tree. Up to break then dyno to top.

Start of left jug, follow the diagonal weakness down to bum dragging height, then straight up 2 moves, then along right on thing holds avoiding the higher good holds

A classic mantle problem. Start at the two obvious pockets under the roof, a big move to the lip leads to the mantle. Careful of loose rabble on the slab above, the initial cleaning of the problem ended up in a trip to the Emergency Room.

A traverse has been done from right to left starting on sidepulls underneath FTB

Start on jugs under the small roof. Straight up to the pockets and a high topout.

Awkward start from the flake then up right via the obvious pocket.

From scoop holds with left hand, up arete via pinches to top.

Steep arete to balancy topout.

A footwork intensive 'low' version of the Autobahn. Start as for Autobahn and traverse left keeping hands below lip, take a couple of grades off if you use the detached flake on the ground near the left arete.

Sustained dead-pointing up pockets and features on slightly overhanging wall.

The awesome highball crack

Big pull of shaky flakes to top.

Hang start, left to right lip traverse.

Starts just left of Gratuitous Steel Insertion. Stick clip first bolt, or preclip when lowering of GSI. Bouldery start to gain arete, then slabbing to the GSI lower-off.