Showing all 64 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lighthouse Wall | |||||
17 | unknown
| 25m | |||
19 | ★ Finger in Seagull,
| 30m | |||
22 | ★ Phallic Broccoli
| 30m | |||
14 | ★★ Spudmatic
| 23m | |||
16 | ★ To Kick a Porcupine
| 22m | |||
19 | ★ Lenin on the Lamppost
The main diagonal crack on the wall L of Midnight Sun. If the start is wet, climb a crack parallel to and just R of the main line to a stance at 5m. Gain the crack proper and follow it all the way. FA: David Cox, 1993 | 23m | |||
13 | Midnight Sun
The steep corner at the L end of the wall to a pleasant wide crack and direct finish. Puts value back in the grade. FA: Colin Reece, Mike Round & Martin Bell, 1972 | 29m | |||
19 | Attila the Nun
Start R of Midnight Sun but make a rising traverse R to overlaps. Continue up to the thin crack 3m R of Midnight Sun. FA: Pete Rigby, 1994 | 28m | |||
19 | ★★ Thunder Road
Begin 10m R of Midnight Sun, just L of a square cut block. Take the crack to the roof and pull through on the R to a stance. Step R and follow the L leaning flared crack to easier ground. FA: Ryan Robertson & Glen Hordacre, 1987 | 28m | |||
15 | Glissading Penguins
Start 2m L of Lamplighter. Up the twin cracks and continue in line to the short crooked jam crack.Step R, move up then L along the ramp a bit and finish up the vague crack, FFA: David Chenery & Paul Gray, 1987 | 26m | |||
14 | The Cad
Glissading Penguins into Pavements from Shanghai. From above the tiny corner at the end of the ramp, climb diagonally R via a vegetated ledge to finish up a V corner. FA: Erik Lock, Caroline Lock & Lee Heard, 1997 | 26m | |||
13 | ★ Pavement from Shanghai
Up Lamplighter 's corner then L along the ramp to finish as for Thunder Road. FA: Dave Trehearne & Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987 | 26m | |||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter
The R facing corner in the middle of the wall. When it ends, step R and continue up the narrow crack. Finish with care up R across vegetated ledges. FA: Colin Reece, Mike Round & Martin Bell, 1972 FFA: Glen Hordacre, 1987 | 26m | |||
15 | Fush and Chups
Start at the niche 7m R of Lamplighter and climb the L leaning crack to a ledge. Move L and finish up the slanting cracks. FA: Paul Gray & Dave Chenery, 1994 | 22m | |||
16 | Made in England
The parallel cracks 2m R of Fush and Chups to a ledge. Continue up the L crack. FA: Ed Darling, 1994 | 20m | |||
Ugly Death Wall | |||||
14 | Ugly, Ugly, Ugly
The L arete. FA: Dave Shelton & Erik Lock, 1997 | 25m | |||
16 | Boomer Beach
Begin 15m R of Ugly and follow the flaring crack past the main horizontal. Continue as you like. FA: Paul Gray & Dave Trehearne, 1987 | 30m | |||
Schweppes Wall | |||||
5 | ★ Terina Spa Water
The R facing corner then the shallow L facing corner to a ledge. Straight up to finish at two boulders. FA: Peter Kraehenbuehl & Ryan Robertson, 1987 | 15m | |||
7 | Seven Up
The wall between Terina Spa Water and Solo Orange. FA: Nick Neagle, Lee Heard & Caroline Lock, 1997 | 15m | |||
6 | Passiona
The R leading diagonal beginning 3m R ofnTerina Spa Water to cross Solo Orange at the diamond shaped boulder. Step R and head up. FA: Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987 | 17m | |||
7 | Solo Orange
A bouldery start 3m R of Passiona, then tackle the deep L leaning crack. FA: Ryan Robertson, 1987 | 15m | |||
8 | Creaming Soda
Start as for Solo Orange, then the wall between Passiona and Solo Lemon. Move L around overhang, taking note that it consists of suspended avalanche debris. FA: Paul Badenoch & Luke Adams, 2011 | 17m | |||
8 | Solo Lemon
Also starts as for Solo Orange but move up R to gain the obvious flake system. FA: Paul Gray, 1987 | 19m | |||
Easter Island wall | |||||
20 | ★ Rub a Dub Dub
The left most jam crack, easy start gets tougher as you get higher. FA: Andy Keum, Mark Shelton & Frewin Ries, 9 Oct 2015 | ||||
17 | ★ Peace and Dub
Start at half height on the detached boulder. Take the wide crack to a roof then continue up Right to a tongue of rock. Traverse around left under the second roof to an eerie finish. FA: Frewin Ries, Mark Shelton & Andy Keum, 9 Oct 2015 | 17m | |||
18 | ★★ Party Sub
A spicy but fun combination of off width and jamming. Pitch 1, 10m. (11) Easy chimney followed by a short corner crack onto large ledge. Pitch2, 10m (18) A short offwidth battle leads to glorious jamming either side of a giant baguette, join Pericles top out via diagonal undercling crack. If weather and sea conditions look dicy, rap to the ledge at the start of the second pitch. FA: Matt Sheppard & Bec Crilly, 24 Dec 2022 | 25m, 2 | |||
16 | ★★ Pericles
Start at the left end of Bumblies, Follow the vertical crack crack to ledge and then follow the Left diagonal crack to Peace and Dubs's second roof. Undercling the right leaning crack to finish. FA: Mark Shelton & Andy Keum, 9 Oct 2015 | 32m | |||
18 | ★ Periwinkle pirouette
Tastey offwidth thrutchiness Start as Pericles for 3 meters, step right at the ledge and continue groveling up the offwidth to the top. Highly recommend a #5 cam or two FA: Bec Crilly & Matt Sheppard, 24 Dec 2022 | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Chase the devil
Start on a small ledge 2 metres right of the start of Periwinkle pirouette’s offwidth section. Head up and right to reach the crux at an offwidth section then to fun double jam cracks, top out at the Boulder. FA: Frewin Ries, James Sunjaya & Peter Hamnett, 21 Jan 2023 | 20m | |||
6 | Flight of the Bumblies
Solo traverse along the rising horizontal crack along the bottom of the cliff. | ||||
15 | Perineum
The narrow chimney 2m left of Periscope. Start behind large boulder at high tide mark and climb through side pulls to first ledge. Pull up through a short corner then continue easily up a bare protrusion to the left of large scooped block that leads to a crevice where the sun don't shine. Exit chimney to left side of rooflet and continue straight up along vertical crack to reach the penultimate ledge and easy climbing to the top. FA: Peter Hamnett, James Sunjaya & Steve Mattschoss, 17 Sep 2023 | 34m | |||
13 | Peri-peri
Not that spicy. Start 2m right of Perineum and follow Periscope but move left after the big scooped block to climb Perineum's dank chimney. Take care to avoid loose cling-ons. Exit to right of rooflet to rejoin Periscope for the last few metres. FA: James Sunjaya & Steve Mattschoss, 17 Sep 2023 | 34m | |||
15 | Periscope
Straight up to small ledge then Weave up the chimney to easier climbing at the top. FA: Mark Shelton, Andy Keum & Frewin Ries, 8 Oct 2015 | 30m | |||
13 | ★ Easter egg
Located on faces below the main Easter island wall. Climb up the large flake to a small ledge. FA: James Sunjaya & Peter Hamnett, 21 Jan 2023 | 8m | |||
13 | The Screaming Abdabs
From the cave R of Easter Egg, climb 5m L almost to the pointy block. Up the main crack to the horizontal then the wide crack on the R to the top. FA: Mark Witham, Paul Gray & Paul Badenoch, 13 Dec | 20m | |||
Rasta Rocks Rasta Rocks | |||||
11 | ★ Slappin' the sea bass
The easiest way up from the ledge. Start on the far left of the ledge and follow the the easy line up and slightly right to the top. FA: Matt Sheppard & Michael Stolk, 26 Apr 2021 | 11m | |||
18 | ★★ Fish Fingers
A fun crack climb with some slab challenges. Start up the hand sized crack to reach the large ledge and up the spicy finger crack slab to an easy finish. FA: Matt Sheppard & Bec Crilly, 2 Jan 2022 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Fish Fingers high tide variant
The shorter version of Fish Fingers from the large ledge for when the tide or swell makes it unsafe to start from the bottom. FA: Matt Sheppard & Bec crilly, 2 Jan 2022 | 11m | |||
16 | ★ Reggae Shark
The corner crack between the two main walls. Fun vertical climbing that eases off toward the top into more positive and slightly slabby. Trust your feet, the granite is grippy. FA: Bec Crilly & Matt Sheppard, 1 Jan 2022 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Reggae Shark High tide variant
The shorter version of Reggae Shark from the ledge up, for when the tide and swell make it unsafe to start from the bottom. FA: Frewin Ries & Mark Shelton, 22 Jan 2021 | 11m | |||
24 | ★★★ The Kraken
The monster offwidth crack that dominate the west facing wall. Excellent hand jams lead to fun 3D climbing until halfway where it turns into a pure offwidth struggle. Wrestle with the beast that tries to drag you back down! FA: Akira Umezawa & Kelly Rathjen, 22 Jan 2023 | 20m | |||
Seafaring Fools area | |||||
17 | ★★ Selkies Kiss
The exit route from the top of the pillar. Follow the RH prominent crack up into the fun off width finish. FA: Mieka Webb, Sarah Endlich & Matt Sheppard FA: 4 Jan 2022 | 8m | |||
10 | ★ Mermaid's Pool
The corner crack up the sea pillar. Rap down to the small ledge then climb up the easy corner to the top. enjoy the scenery as you go. FA: Sarah Endlich & Mieka Webb, 4 Jan 2022 | 22m | |||
14 | Siren's Delight
The alternate way up the pillar. Start as for Mermaid's pool but then follow the diagonal break to the arete and back in. FA: Laura Hodgson & Matt Sheppard, 28 Dec 2022 | 23m | |||
19 | ★★★ Cracking Up
The most commanding line on the stunning wall. Rappel down to a small ledge 5 metres above the water, with redirects as required. The belay ledge stays miraculously dry even with a big swell due to the shape of the rock below. Epic position. Bomber gear anchor. Climb gains a star for the belay alone! Fun, easy corner jamming to ledge on the left, followed by more challenging jamming, bridging and face climbing up the diagonal crack system. 4m from the top take the RH vertical line up to the large top out ledge. (The wider diagonal continuation LH finish may be worthwhile?) Standard double rack with cams up to BD#4 adequate. FA: JasonB & Matt Sheppard, 20 Jan 2023 | 40m | |||
19 | ★★★ Walk the plank
Feel the exposure. Walk out on the narrow black ledge and then up the thin crack until you reach the quartz seam. Follow the good sized crack up to the ledge and top out using the bulgy flake. FA: Matthew Sheppard & Michael Stolk, 24 Apr 2021 | 15m | |||
21 | Keel haul traverse
Mega exposure alert. Start as for Walk the plank but once you reach the quartz seam start the no hands traverse left along the rough quartz. Once you reach the ledge on the other side make your way up the dark grey hourglass shaped flake moving up left under a rooflet to gain a small ledge. Too out either up the crack or horizontal breaks to the right. FA: Matt Sheppard & Sarah Endlich, 7 Jan 2022 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★★ The Last Barnacle
Start as for Walk the Plank until thin verticle seam 1m before the end of the ledge. Straight up the path of least resistance until a large horizontal break. Up the close seam 1m right of WTP flake. .2 cam at top of the seam to protect slopey top out. FA: Brodie Eckert, 6 Feb 2022 | 15m | |||
8 | Scurvy Scurry
Start up the left most wide crack before the Walk the plank ledge, Gain the arete and scramble up to the top. FA: Bec Crilly & Matt Sheppard, 26 Mar 2022 | 15m | |||
18 | Ryans 3rd flash attempt
The large blocky crack up the black lower face. Nice start. couple awkward moves off ledge, one bolt in the middle as the pro is poor. Clip 2nd bolt and commit using slopers to mantle up. FA: Ben White, lorenzo & paulo Grasso | 15m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Penguins cant fly
Fist crack start up to ledge. Powerful underclings and into the offwidth. Stem the corner or climb offwidth style FA: paulo grasso, Ben White & lorenzo Grasso | 10m | |||
The wild west wall | |||||
18 | ★★★ Captain crack sparrow
Left side of big roof. Left of the two fist cracks. fists fists fists layback bodyjam slopy mantle. Double bolt anchor easily accesable with a short scramble down from above roof. . Right of the two fist cracks same grade as left FA: Ben White | 10m | |||
16 | ★★ In crust we trust
Right side of big roof. Thin layback crack up to mini undercling crack. Up to obvious ledge. Step off ledge onto roof face and up to double bolt anchor FA: Kaitlyn Howlett | 10m | |||
13 | Smashed crabs
Up the large crack and scrable fun climbing up to top of cliff. Natural anchor. FA: Ben White | 17m | |||
13 | ★ Clam chowder
Up large lightening bolt crack and scramble up to top of cliff. Natural anchor FA: Ben White | 17m | |||
18 | ★ A bet none of the setters can climb this black tag. Prove me wrong
Start might be wet. start climbing the blocks and up leftish, Avoid the first big block wedged in the crack. Easy climbing up to a corner and then aim for the short but epic hand crack. Easy climbing up to doublt bolt anchor. Lots of slopey mantles | ||||
14 | ★ Better with a 6
Layback the big crack and mantle . Beware of the potencial loose rock at the top of the right side of the crack. One piece has come off leaving a jug but maybe the rest could come off as well. FA: Ben White | ||||
16 | ★★ Better with a 6 OW
Offwitch style instead of layback. Climbed originally with a 5 only. FA: Ben White | 5m | |||
17 | ★★ Captain hook, but with cams for hands
Start up the big crack. Traverse left with jams or along the slopey rail. Up final hand crack. Good value for a short climb! FA: Ben White | 8m | |||
6 | ★ Number of the Beast
Offwidth boulder to the right of Better with a 6. 6m. Lead with a 6. Grade 6(?) FA: JasonB, Rob Carlin & Shane Mitchell, Apr 2023 | 6m | |||
15 | Nick The Neagle
Start in the corner crack to the L of Everything is 19. Climb to half height, then take either/both of the twin cracks to the top. FA: Rob Carlin & JasonB FA: Apr 2023 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Everything is 19
Scramble down from Better with a 6, then short rappel or down climb onto massive ledge. Alternatively rap from top of climb. Climb easy hand crack with flake on the R, to half height. Traverse R 1m on cool crystal vein to gain access to the fun overhanging crack, up this to top. FA: JasonB, Rob Carlin & Shane Mitchell, Apr 2023 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Everything is 19 (direct start)
Take the direct line under the top crack. Interesting start that’s a bit better than it looks. FA: Shane Mitchell & JasonB, Apr 2023 | 15m | |||
18 | ★★★ Piece of cake flake
Amazing overhung flake. Rappel down through the little window to a big ledge. Hard high Undercling start with no feet. Fight your way up the first section to the big jug. Blind cam placements first 3ms. Origionally climbed with preplaced cams at the start. Up pumpy jugs to the top FA: Ben White, paulo & lorenzo grasso | 15m |
Showing all 64 routes.