Ascents in KP North having Beta

Great initial crack-work. Quite runout after half way. Could use a late bolt to prevent ground fall.

pretty good little climb

Seconded Tony on first ascent... bouldery start.

with Jared House

Named after girlfriend broken leg epic on Crookneck...

Crimpy with a kidney puncturing fence to avoid when first done... not a good one to fall on!

with Jared House

[4/5] fourth shot

with Jared House

with Andy T

with Jared or Glen can't remember

with Jared House in Uni days long ago...

Crap for my first ever new route... young and foolish!

Second shot. This actually has some fantastic climbing and is a a great line! The top is very grassy but barring that, it's a great line with good steep slabbing. It is unfortunately - however - behind a "no climbing" sign and we did get told off by a council cleaner so retrieved our gear and left.

Just realised that KP north was updated and I logged the wrong climb.

Original Log: Not 100% sure if i was on this climb but it vaguely matches the description. Its the furthest left climb at KP north with fresh u-bolts closest to river life (just before the "no climbing past this point sign"). If anyone has any info about this climb feel free to comment. Actually very sweet climb! Fun sketchy slab climbing.

FFA. Unbelievable that this route was up for grabs (surely it's had an ascent!?). Thanks hipyhop for the send belay and the double rope beta

Eyeballed for months, rehearsed on top rope about half a dozen times and put down on the second red-point attempt. The trickiest part is knowing the gear beta and keeping a level head.

The placements in the seam crack are tiny, but are great and numerous. For gear, I used a size 00 C3 and size 1+2 Dragonfly, supplemented with size 1+2 ball-nuts. Climbed on double ropes to eliminate the heinous rope drag caused by the rooflet, untying one rope halfway on the send.

A spunky little addition to the Foreclosure area for KP trad aficionados.

1st repeat on lead today, grade 20 seems about right. Gear in seam crack: 2x size 1 Dragonfly, 1 size 2 Dragonfly.

That's hard for me

If you can get over the choss and the fear that a car-size block might collapse under you, you'll be rewarded by quite a special little route for KP. Worth it!

Bitched out on the mantle at the top on lead. Will go next time now I have sent the mantle in 3 different ways on TR!

Awesome moves in the upper arête, but damn that mantle top-out is insane.

What a day very pumped.

Probably my new favourite climb at KP. Proper hand jambs, toe jambs, good gear, an awesome arete and great slab to a mantle. You can’t pack any more into a climb!!!! Brilliant!!! Thanks for showing me Chando

Great climb combining a bunch of techniques onto one climb.

Not as many jams as I expected, but quite good nonetheless!

Finally sent this beauty. Awesome crack with a balancey arete at the end

Heading back to this with some gear. A couple of good hand jams and a fun finish, good fun.

Best hand jams at KP! Not sure how much I like the rock... It is the size of a car and balancing like a massive magic block.

This would be hard for shorter people!

Been eye-balling this climb for months, stoked to get the onsight!

Following Joel’s onsight. And now I never have to do it again. Varied climb, different techniques - crack, arête, mantle finish. As mentioned previously the car size dislodged block floating in mid-air is a bit concerning when you’re standing on top or belaying underneath.

A crack, Some sketchy rock, an arete and a dirty KP mantle to finish!

Pretty spooky

Well worth a lap

Something different for KP!

Mega classic, one of the best routes I've done at KP. Awesome climbing up arete.. don't breathe too heavily on the rock though, it ain't gonna last forever.

Pretty epic for KP. Hope the fridge sized block doesn’t fall off. Doesn’t look like it’s supported by much.

Id been hanging for a while to do this one and pushed our 2nd aid training session into the sun to jump on first thing this morning, but like johnny on beau brummel, i was sadly disappointed. 1 nice rockover move high on the arete but the crack is contrived and can be used more easily to stem against the corner instead. The flop onto the ledge at the chains completes the trinity of nice looking moves that are actually a pain in the arse I took out my frustration on the portaledge later on.

Most of the good climbing is shared with Foreclosure so probably best to stick to that route instead, this one gets pretty chossy toward the top. Everything we touched broke off and turned to dust on the final section

I feel like giving this climb the 'classic' rating. Fully bolted, not trad. Great moves, heaps of sequences. Makes you think. Really enjoyed this climb, and got the on-site!!!

Chossy but with some cool moves. Not sure why it's "trad" on the crag as it's fully and well protected. Nice onsight by Ms. Holder!

First climb of the night testing the finger and taking it easy.

Bit of loose rock, just small pieces breaking though. My right toe pressure at the crux move chipped off some more rock but I managed to hold on.

Unremarkable but good.

Following Joel’s onsight. Fun climb, grippy rock

A bit of loose rock but nice climb.

cool moves but needs a serious clean up at the top

Bailed to KP North to avoid the mind melting lasers.