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Routes as trad in Thorn Buttress

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
23 Breathless
Trad
13 Prickly Heat
Trad
16 March Flies when You're Having Fun
Trad 18m
14 Hakea

Start: The ragged corner 10M right of the blackberry filled gully.

FA: Dave McNamara & John Dutton, 1973

Trad 18m
20 Old Dog, New Trick

Straight up the layback flake to the chains (or beyond).

FA: Dave Nelson

Trad
18 Barking Up Another Sacred Sight (sic)

Mixed pro.

FA: Mark Barnett & David Paull, 1989

Mixed trad 20m, 1
19 As the Crowe Flies

Bolts L of Gladiator, stepping into that route to finish.

FA: Tony Barker & John Marshall, 2005

Trad 20m
20 Gladiator

Takes the overhanging line just left of the corner (marked). Climb through the overhanging start (crux) to a stance just under a small roof, then reach out right and climb into the opposing corner. Continue up the line to a layback finish and chains.

Mixed trad 16m, 3
22 Gladiator Direct Start

Takes the poor-looking rock immediately left of the marked Olympus start, joining the upper corner via a reachy and powerful sequence. Was the original line until the loss of some holds.

FA: Col Reece

Trad 20m
24 Hippy and a Wharfie

Rarely done, mainly because it has a sport (bolted) start, then relies on trad (small wires) to finish. Climbs Pussycats start (crux) then trends left into Kiss My Brain (bolt and old piton). Over roof, but instead of taking the bolt line left (KMB), go up 2/3m then trent left to arete. Finish at top chain for maximum enjoyment.

FA: Stuart Williams, 1988

Trad 22m
18 Terrathea

The good-looking corner crack just right of 'Sardine'. Cruxy start, then once level with Sardine's 2nd bolt, it eases off (but not completely). Best finished by traversing left to the 'Sardine' chains.

FA: Dave McNamara, George Adams & Doug Mclean

Trad 20m
21 Terrathea-Incognita

A really good combo route. Start as for Terrethea, but prior to its crux reach out right for the big flake of 'Terra Incognita'. Match this and continue up the line. Effectively dismisses the original 'Terra Incognita' reachy crux.

Trad
22 Incognita-Japetus DF Link
Trad
24 Two Hour Hole

Take 'Japetus' to the 'hole' - then launch up the left side of the arete past a small edge and a 'hidden' sidepull to the 'Japetus' break.

The original line continued up the face of 'Terra Incognita' - however cutting back right at the good rest and launching up the direct finish of 'Japetus' Direct makes for a far better route.

FA: Stuart Williams & Duncan Graham, 1995

Trad 18m
23 Japetus

The original route. Now superseded by the direct finish.

Start: Takes the very overhanging arete from its base up to the 'hole', then tacts right around the steep arete and up to the big break via a good undercling. This original line then stepped left and finished up the 'Terra Incognita' face.

FA: Kim Carrigan (all on trad), 1979

Trad
27 Japetus Extension

A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23.

Trad 30m
23 Japetus Right Hand

FA: Finish up black streak right of last bolt

Trad
14 Fenceline
Trad 19m
16 Debut
Trad
11 Hanging Foul
Trad 15m
21 Get Smart
Trad 15m
10 Moss Wall
Trad
17 Passing Shadows
Trad 15m
11 Thorn In My Side
Trad 12m
12 Numbats
Trad 8m
20 Blessed Ignorance
Trad 13m

Showing all 26 routes.

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