Routes in Northern Buttress

Face climbing.

Start: wall L of Andromeda

From the top of the Pulpit, continue straight up to gain finger crack. Up then left to finish at chains as for All Systems Go.

Old fashioned chimney right of RJ&C.

Spicy. Start as per Subterfuge, but continue directly up the face without straying into Pegasus or the arete on the left.

Starting on the right side of the chasm, follow seams (wires) to bolts on face. Traverse right into (somewhat concerning) undercling flake after clipping the 3rd bolt, then blast up the right arete past 3 more bolts to the top.

Short finger crack on the left wall of the Chasm, climbs up to DBB

Thin crack through hand sizes and off width near top. Wires useful in first half. Belay and Abseil Point 45m from ground.

A quality route on steep, clean rock (original 2 pitches). Start 4m to the R of Pulpit Chimney at a squeeze chimney with two chockstones. Follow the chimney directly and climb to the top of the huge detached flake, (Belay possible) Climb the short crack to a ledge (possible to traverse L to join Skyline Minor (11)) continue directly up the steep crack to belay just short of the Buttress Pinnacle.

Start at thin crack between Pulpit Chimney and Pegasus

1. 35m (20) Follow thin crack and face with small gear to rest in v-groove. Step left to arete and follow crack system (as per Tearaway) to eventually reach top of huge flake.

2. 20m (14) Continue up wide crack as per Pegasus. Pitches can be linked with long runners

On of best pitches of 18 on the Mountain, following the arete to the right of Pulpit Chimney.

1. 35m (18) Start up Pulpit Chimney, then step right and follow crack system and then arete, moving left to base of offwidth then back right to arete. You can also continue up the offwidth if you like that sort of thing. At top of the huge flake climb a short wall up and left to belay on ledge to left of Pegasus.

2. 20m (12) Either finish up Pegasus p2 (14) or step around corner to left and climb cracks and then easy ground to top of Pinnacle.

The obvious chimney. Most people belay on spacious ledge above the huge chockstone.

The wall left of the Pulpit. Climb up the crack on L of Pulpit for 3m them move L and straight up wall to small roof. Turn roof on R continue up crack to ledge then follow the hand crack to bolted belay at 32m. Originally continued up Skyline Minor but most people rap off here. Be careful rapping off on 60m rope!

Great series of sustained moves up the short bolted arete to DBB.

Intricate route finding up the next pillar right of Boy's Games to DBB (shared with Climbing Edge Memorial Climb). A difficult onsight.

Mixed Route

The line of bolts on the R side of the chasm. Brilliant steep bouldery moves lead to easier arete climbing before joining Vanity.

All bolts apart from an optional 0.3 cam on the face traverse of Vanity at mid height.

The arête right of CEMC. The first section can be climbed on either side of the arête, leading to a good rest before the steep finish. The crux is passing the last bolt.

Climb the super thin crack, passing a small overlap at the bottom. No loweroffs so take a biner for the last bolt if there's not one already there.