Routes in The Organ Pipes

Start 3m right of Third Bird

1. Climb the hand cracks on the wall several metres right of Third Bird, with some interesting moves through the niche above, to a belay on a scrubby ledge at single U-bolt.

2. Move left and climb the shallow corners and flakes just right of Third Bird, to belay at the rap anchors on the ledge below the overhang.

3. Move back right and continue up the wide cracks above to the top, taking care not to stray onto Third Bird. Descent: abseil as for Third Bird, or traverse left and down the scrubby corner/gully to the Battle Cruiser rap anchors.

The prominent crack up the front of Cossack Column. One of the best routes at the Organ Pipes.

1. 15m (19) As for Tartarus. Belay in small corner just below narrow ledge that heads right.

2. 45m (20) Travers right to the arete and follow intermittent crack lines up the column. Exit right under the block to the DBB.

A less vegetated variant for Melancholy Mania. Takes the rib if rock to the L of the second pitch of Melancholy Mania. Scramble around from Suicide Sadness to avoid the first pitch of the above climb and belay at the base of the chimney. Climb up cracks and shallow corner past rooflet and blocky sections up the belay for Melancholy Mania.

The first 10m is gear protected, the remaining is fully bolted.

MIxed route left of Kacktus. Climb loose chimney on natural gear until top of pinnacle is reached. Step onto the right wall and follow fully bolted wall to ledge and DBB. There is a short extention to a second DBB.

The corner and offwidth left of Tartarus. 2 pitches split at the 60s hex and tat

chimney left of FTA

1. A roaming line starting up face reaching between horizontal breaks to small roof. Traverse R under roof and up to small ledge.

2. Up broken corner crack to top of initial column, head up and R to bolt belay. (combining first two pitches is definitely possible)

3. Diagonally L to another bolted belay and rap station.

The crack-line up the front of Cossack Column.

1. 40m. Up the short corner on the L, before stepping R at the small bush to gain the main crack. Climb over the bulge to a belay.

2. 20m. Follow the v-groove around the corner to an easier ground.

Starting at a prominent corner with twin cracks.

1. 35m. Up the corner to belay at tree or notch.

2. 30m. Continue up the main crack-line above small tree to the big ledge on top of the buttress.

Continue as for "Bert's Fear" (45m) up the ridge or rap down your choice of three anchors right from ledge - Brown Madonna / Pleasant Screams.

the crack right of ITF

On the lower tier, 15m left of where the track meets the tier, is a compact black streaked wall leading to a featured roof. Excellent face climbing past a FH to a ledge. Up corner above before moving right and through the big roof, then the face and arete above to DBB. Scramble a further 10m to the base of G Pillar. Micro cams important.

Originally a short, bold, route connecting the Fiddlesicks ledge to the 1st belay of Precarious. A retro-bolt or two (as part of the logical arete line CSTS) have tamed the route, which is now normally done as part of AT or CSTS.

Exciting moments to be had on the prominent hanging pillar R of Centurion. Bridge the offwidth corner 5m R of Centurion for 8m to a small roof. Traverse R under this onto the face of the column. Climb the finger crack past a problematic niche, surmount the large flake above, and continue more easily to the top.

Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB.

Starts off the Hakea ledge about 3m left of Hakea. Best accessed by rapping in (~55m). Lots of wide hands and fists, with perfect knee jams, and a couple of shrubberies.

From the top of the Pulpit, continue straight up to gain finger crack. Up then left to finish at chains as for All Systems Go.

In the recess just R of Cossack Column there is a large black chimney with a large chockstone 20m up. Scramble up 12m to the base of the chimney.

1. 20m Up the chimney on the R to belay on a chockstone.

2. 30m Continue up and belay on a large, grassy ledge.

3. 12m Scramble up to the top

A steep, sustained and challenging crack that varies from a small seam to hand width, including v-grooves and a short chimney. Seeps longer than most climbs in the area. Climb the wall and thin seam to a thin corner, passing the bulge with finger jams. Continue up the thin-hands v-groove to pass another bulge at half height. Continue jamming up the second v-groove (thin seam) and short chimney above, then pull around a huge overhanging flake to a stance at the Hakea tree near the top. Either ascend your fixed rope for ~8m (recommended approach), climb awkwardly past the tree, or abseil-off the tree back to the ledge where you can abseil from bushes or down climb (grade 14) back to the base of Cossack column. The crack has been thoroughly cleaned as of Jan 2023, which should keep it tidy from moss for the coming years.

Old fashioned chimney right of RJ&C.

Starts 16m downhill of Fiddlesticks at the obvious body chimney in a shallow corner.

Old school bulimia? Follows the crack and groove lines that starts on a grassy ledge in a recess just R of Cossack Column.

1. 25m Climb the crack/groove at the LHS of the ledge.

2. 25m Continue up the corner until it is possible to finger traverse R into Battle-Axe Crack.

3. 25m Finish up Battle-Axe Crack.

A serious but rewarding single pitch route up the wall to the left of the obvious chimney ("Bert's Fear"). The first half of the route follows the line of least resistance up, trending leftwards, to the obvious large jug on the arete. The climbing on this section is sustained face climbing, with care needed to be taken with some loose rock to be avoided, and some devious gear placements to be found. Small wires very important. From the jug on the arete, the climbing is easier, following a series of short blockly corners up and trending back right to a ledge with two small trees and a cluster of fixed tat. From this tat, a single 60m rope will get you back to the deck (although you're probably better of leading the route on double ropes).

The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station. Unknown, Sept. 1961.

Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals.

The crack / chimney up the centre of the column is a varied classic adventure.

Pitch 1: Ground level to obvious large chockstone (rap anchors present) Pitch 2: Up chimney and belay at base of huge corner Pitch 3: 3 variants - Direct (18) - Left of huge corner which becomes offwidth Chimney (15): Climb R wall for 5m, thenstep R up to ledge and finish up chimney

The arete directly off the walking track. Good but spaced protection.

Climb RH crack for 7 m, then move into LH crack and up to below a bush. Traverse L and onto arete to Nefarious anchor.

Start: Crack to the right of bolted arete (Nefarious 22)

Sustained and consistent. An inverted small L-shaped roof/flake marks the start of this route.

1. 30m Climb a shallow corner to the small roof at 5m, which is turned on the L. Ascend a series of walls up and R to a ledge.

2. 35m Climb onto the block on the L and then up a thin crack to a small tree. Step back R and jam the crack to the top, belaying at some blocks near the Faust corner.

3. 35m Continue up the line of shallow corners on the upper wall R of Faust to a small ledge. Head up and L over a bulge into a hanging corner and continue to the top. Descend by first climbing up the short rock step behind where the route finishes, and then heading L and down a vegetated ramp with some down climbing sections, circling around to the Battle Cruise rap station from above. If you find yourself bridging up a tree, you're on the wrong path.

Clip the first two bolts on Dark Nebula, then step left and up past a few more bolts. A long traddy ramble follows (single set of cams and wires), before a thin finish past another 3 bolts to DBB.

A must do if you are in this area of the Pipes. Trad with DBB anchor stations at the top of both pitches.

The clean hand crack. Either step left at the roof (grade 17) or continue direct up the crack (grade 19). Belay anchors at top.

Starts as for Chancellor in the big right facing corner between Chancellor Direct and Carpe Diem.

1. 14m. Up Chancellor to a stance.

2. 24m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney directly via a 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chockstone.

3. 18m. Climb out around the chockstones and up the final corner crack.