Routes as trad in Mountain Quarry

Originally and aid route called Band Aid, this overhanging finger crack will result in you laybacking like never before. Protect with nuts and small to medium cams. Perhaps best natural route in Perth.

Shares anchor with Urban Ethics. The anchor sits after a sharp ledge. It would be recommended when top roping to use a fixed rope and when decending rappel or walk down.

Slabby route in V-shaped groove. Thin seam provides good pro using nuts and cams. Be careful of loos blocks at bottom, and use good foot work to reach top.

Start just R of Psychopath. Trend right past 5 FHs (crux), then trad climb up the corner above (gr.12). Just before top of corner traverse R onto face and up to lower-offs just below the arête of On Edge. Cams up to #0.75 Camalot, nuts all sizes. 5 FH, then trad gear.

Loose large blocks at top.

Well protected but not straightforward. Start at the bottom of Finger Licking Awful crack and follow this to top, trending L. Up face past 2 bolts then L to shallow vertical grove (large nut), then traverse L along crack with bush to Rage, then up to anchors of Rage. Trad gear and 2 GIMBs.

A climb that has no doubt seen a few "first ascents" yet never seemed to make it into a guidebook. As a result it has a few names and descriptions. Equipped with a lower off in 2021(?).

2020 Description: "Start at the base of LE staying between LE & AWA following the right trending crack. Takes a range of bomber wire nuts, no cams required. Top out over loose rock. Down climb to anchors for AWA & lower off.

2014 Description: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-wee-bit-of-fun-on-the-black-wall-at-stathams/ There is a thin crack running between Penthouse/Left Edge and Aerobics with Alan that is an entertaining exercise in placing tiny gear and minor runouts. There doesn’t seem to be a write up on it, and is probably a solo from the 60s/70s or one of those lines that have periodically been done but not written up. Does anyone know its history? We climbed it for a laugh at the end of a session. Start up as for PH. Clipping the first bolt might be a good idea, if only to lessen the chance of unzipping. Head slightly right on to the crack and merrily fiddle about with micro nuts, RPs and small nuts and cams while perched on the numerous edges. Follow the crack all the way up until it peters out, then continue straight up the face and top out pretty much where LE goes. Belay off the small trees on top. Watch out for the dead ones. Easy climbing, somewhere about 12-14, with the little gear keeping the interest up. If it doesn’t already have a name, Smallminded. Comments on grade? A Separovic and R Wainright 2014

2013 Ascent: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/some-new-routes-for-perth-quarries/

The Guide 2nd Edition (1995): Start at the right edge of triangular buttress. Up groove to top of buttress then right up small chimney and ramp. Move left onto the right end of the broken wall, climb wall and then scramble to top.

Perth Rock 1st Edition (1996): The chossy scramble.

Follow playboy to top slab and trend left to reach bolts

The Guide 2nd Edition (1995): Start on the left side of the small triangular buttress. Climb the left side of the buttress then scramble to the steep broken wall. Travel up a dirty line of weakness and then scramble to top.

Perth Rock 1st Edition (1996): Another chossy scramble.

Start as for Split Personality, don’t move left as for SP but go directly up on small holds to the ledge. Dynamic moves to get over the headwall. 2BR and small friends. Just brilliant fun.

Start below bolt (hanger required) and move right to FH (long draw to reduce drag) then delicately move back left to gain black slab. Hard moves up to groove and continue to small that takes gear.

Climb from the bottom right-hand corner of the short steep wall to the top left avoiding the arete on the right.

Direct as crab, an top above crab. Small gear needed.

Start 3m left of the V-shaped corner. Up broken corner then keep right on the rock to below overhanging corner. Up this using detached block to gain corner above. Continue to top via the left side of the steep wall above.

Most of this route has fallen down and the remainder is threatening to fall any day now. So beware!

Follow the seam and continue up the arete on it's RH side to a tricky mantle and easy finish. Just enough gear.

Another variant on Split Personality / Vital Link. Diverges from existing lines at the large ledge halfway up SP. Start either on SP or up the first two BR on Ride of the Valkyries. From SP move right on the large ledge to where the head-high horizontal crack turns diagonally upwards (to eventually form the horizontal break on the ROTV crux). Layback move up the diagonal crack. Traverse left one meter, ignoring the superfluous bolt at knee level, to stand below the shallow open book. Strenuous, balancy move up into the open book finishing as for VL.

FA 6/2/05 Ishmael, M Turner, and 3/4 Peter.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mountain-quarry-trad-among-the-bolts/

Credited as 'Crab' in Perth Rock (1996), though the description and other guidebooks for 'Crab' seem to point to the slab to the right of Hangten rather than this.

Old deathroute. First pitch now hopelessly entwined in new bolted routes.

Start as for Split Personality but don't move left. Go directly up on small holds to the ledge. Dynamic moves to get over the headwall.

Four bolts and small friends.