Showing all 51 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V10 | |||||
Tantalus Boulder | |||||
V10 | ★★ Sound and Colour
Tantalus' crimpier, narrower neighbour. Compress up the left arête and right crimp rail from a stand (left hand sharp side-pull on the arête and right on the crimp rail) FA: Fraser Gust, 19 May 2023 | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Tantalust
Sit start to Tantalus. Overall, no harder than the original but the sit start adds some nice moves and a little fatigue. FA: Peter Reynolds, 26 Sep 2021 | ||||
The Monster in the Forest | |||||
V10 | ★★★ Kia tupato te taniwha
Beware the monster. When you find it you’ll know. All time, hard and a bit terrifying. Roof to hard moves to gain the flake and amazing arete. Be careful up high. | 9m | |||
V9 | |||||
Tantalus Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Tantalus
Stunning compression line from a stand start. FA: Garry A Williams, 2020 | ||||
South Side | |||||
V9 | ★★ Static Edge Theory
Harder start to ET. Controlled pull onto face prior to moving up to RH layaway. Tricky link into ETS heart breaker top. May be easier if tall? FA: Mark Rewi | ||||
V7 | |||||
South Side | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Kick, push and coast
Sit start on undercling incut out right, below generous ledges. Go straight up: traversing left to the arete feels like another line but it's not eliminated. Tension through thin crimps via a funky kick. Dicey top, don't coast off. FA: Garry A Williams, 2022 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Edge Theory
Stand start with low RH edge and gastons or undercling LH 1.5m left of press bias. The big loose flake to left and all holds on PB are out of reach so don’t go wandering! Up via cool line of lay away edges to an insecure finish. A pull on start has been done at V9 but requires a bit of stabilisation of footholds. Will write it up when sorted. FA: Mark Rewi | ||||
V6 | |||||
Meteor Hammer Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Meteor Hammer
Sit start and climb up the prow. FA: Garry A Williams, 2020 | ||||
The Monster in the Forest | |||||
V6 | ★ Red Rocket
Sit start matched on the good low jug. Gaston, heel hook, and sharp edges up the arete. No rocking over early - top out at the apex. A little bit gritty but the moves are decent. | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Black Wind
The glorious arete on the left end of the orange face. Stand start and compress to gain jug at 2/3 height. 2 mantles see you home from there. Has a directional bolt for TR above finish. ABSEIL DESCENT. FA: Mark Rewi | 6m | |||
V5 | |||||
V5 | ★ Digby's Dream
Stand start and climb the arete on the left-hand side. Don't use the detached block at the base for your feet at this grade. FA: Peter Reynolds, 28 Sep 2021 | ||||
Smeg Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Smeg
Sit start (crimp around the corner for left hand) and climb the fridge block. Can be done from a stand at around V1. FA: Garry A Williams, 2020 | ||||
The Monster in the Forest | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Dirty Creatures
The excellent parallel seams/grooves on the back (East) side of the boulder. Start on boulder with left hand crimp and crystals for right. Hard move stepping off the boulder (will be much easier if you can reach the pocket or seams) then surf the line to a cool finish. ABSEIL DESCENT! FA: Mark Rewi | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Taniwha
Sensational. Sit start off the ramp using the glued flake. Long move to jug then technical climbing uo the right side of the arete to a tenuous finish way up high. ABSEIL DESCENT! FA: Mark Rewi | 6m | |||
South Side | |||||
V5 | ★★ Steadfast
Stand start, head straight up the crack past insecure moves. Unsure of the grade, could be height dependant? FA: Spencer Lindsay, 25 Apr 2023 | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Jade Monkey
A great line, stays independent from steadfast, and sustained all the way! Sit start at the crack with good feet, continue straight up past small crimps to a delicate top FA: Spencer Lindsay, 26 Aug 2023 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Press Bias
Starting left of the crack on good edges. Mantle the long positive edge. Crack sidepulls are in but not that helpful. Sidewall is adjacent boulder and out. Harder than the other V5s, so not V4! FA: Garry A Williams | ||||
V4 | |||||
V4 | The Un-tappable Well
The arete right of Hollow Arete. Stand start on the lowest side pulls and make some tricky moves. | 3m | |||
Tantalus Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Between Worlds
Start as for the sit start of Sound and Colour. Punch up to good holds and then move higher to sharp edges. Fun climbing. Exit via the chimney formed by the two boulders touching. Excellent chicken wings and chimney grovelling are possible but more graceful options exist as everything you can reach is in. FA: Zach Azeez, 20 Mar | ||||
V4 | ★★ Outer Edge
Fantastic high knife blade arete around right from Tantalus. It is climbed from a sit-start on its left side all the way. Committing. | ||||
Touch of Grey Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Touch of Grey
Great punchy couple of moves. Located 40 metres downhill from The Monster in the Forest. Sit start matched on the undercling/sidepull. Big move up to good incut crimp in the face before moving up to the lip. The detached block or ledge to the left are out. FA: Matthieu Burgess, 20 Oct 2023 | 3m | |||
The Monster in the Forest | |||||
V4 | ★ Boxing Day
Has a touch of the Lisa Machete. Start laying away with both hands at base of the crack left of red rocket. One hard pull to get established then up crack and groove. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Butch Cassidy
Steep Lowball directly opposite James and Ians problems. Undercling and RH side pull (big flake and detached chock near flake are out for feet). Up to slopey lip and awkward mantle. | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Gretel
Ian and James couldn't pick a name between them. Luckily Charlie saved the day! Nice west facing diamond shaped face with a big slope jug rail to start below the monster. Sit start left end of rail and straight up. FA: James Lannan | 4m | |||
Little Monster Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Painful Vices
Good and quite tenuous. Stand start at obvious crimps just left of Bulb Arete. Pull on and traverse diagonally left (without using bulb arete at any time) to gain lip and an easier mantle. Good and quite tenuous. Stand start at obvious crimps just left of Bulb Arete. Pull on and traverse diagonally left (without using bulb arete at any time) to gain lip and an easier mantle. | 3m | |||
Ride a Rock Horse | |||||
V4 | ★ Ride a Rock Horse
Stand-start and climb the nose feature. You might find yourself a cheval at one point. FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Oct 2021 | ||||
V3 | |||||
V3 | Hollow Arete
A bit gritty. On the boulders approximately 50m NW of Tanatalus. Sit start under the arete with obvious groove/flake feature. Much easier from a stand. | ||||
The Monster in the Forest | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Spaces Between
Great problem just west of The Monster in the Forest. Sit start on the low horizontal crack and climb up the bulge via edges and crimps, staying left of the arete all the way to the top. FA: Matthieu Burgess, 19 Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ The Bloodthirsty but not too smart Witch in the Gingerbread House
SS as for Gretel, work to right hand end of rail and up to arete then top. Has also been climbed swinging from the rail low under the arete. FA: James Lannan | ||||
V3 | Hansel
As for Gretel to the pockety hold then hard right to jug on arete then up. Originally climbed from a stand but a sit start is better. FA: Charlie Creese | 3m | |||
Ride a Rock Horse | |||||
V3 | Picnic by the Motorway
Stand start with hands below shoulder height and climb the short blunt arete. On the backside of the same boulder as Whale Jaw etc. FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Oct 2021 | ||||
V3 | ★ Whale Jaw
Hanging start and climb the nice feature. Campus first move. FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Oct 2021 | ||||
South Side | |||||
V3 | ★ Boobworld
Located on the boulder just south of katana crack, Starting hold broken, now starts standing, matched on the sloper. Climbs the subtle arete trending left. FA: Spencer Lindsay, 21 Dec 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | |||||
V2 | ★ The Devil Bunny and the Enchanted Carrot
Cool low ball! SDS left hand on arete and right-hand on good crimp in middle of face. Pull on and slap up the right arete before rocking over onto the left face. FA: Jamie, Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
Meteor Hammer Boulder | |||||
V2 | Inner Spli
Sit start inside the split egg of meteor hammer. Climb vertical left arete of the back half of the split egg. | ||||
South Side | |||||
V2 | ★★ Katana Crack
Perfect hand-fist sized crack located in the gully downhill of the walk-in to Outer Kingdom. | 4m | |||
V1 | |||||
V1 | ★ OK5
About 100m north of the Tantalus boulder. Stand-start with high left-hand crimp and low right-hand undercling. Get to the juggy ledge on the right then rock over to the left. FA: Jamie, Nov 2021 | 3m | |||
V1 | OK4
About 20m east of the Meteor Hammer boulder. Stand-start on left arete with good crimps. Move diagonally up toward the right arete before committing to the sloping top out. FA: Jamie | 3m | |||
Tantalus Boulder | |||||
V1 | Hug a Crack Collective
Climb crack and block just right of outer edge through small overlap. V2/3 from an awkward sit. | ||||
Meteor Hammer Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Meteor Shower South
The arguably slightly harder southern ramp of the meteor hammer boulder. Sit start and go all the way out the front to finish. | ||||
Little Monster Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Bulb Arete
Climb the left arete of the left wall as seen approaching from car park. Once on the bulb climb right side of arete. Higher than it looks and quite fun. | 3m | |||
Ride a Rock Horse | |||||
V1 | ★ Double action deme
Sit start on jug to the left of arete reach to sidepull on the right then up over the ledge to top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Falcon's Crack
Stand start and climb the obvious crack. FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Oct 2021 | ||||
South Side | |||||
V1 | Six pack snack
Sit start on jug left of crack, straight up using the horizontal seam and shallow pocket FA: Spencer Lindsay, 21 Dec 2022 | 3m | |||
V0 | |||||
V0 | Scaly Creatures
The obvious easy scaled wall NW of and facing Tantalus. Sit/stand/whatever. | ||||
Meteor Hammer Boulder | |||||
V0 | Meteor Shower North
Climb the downhill ramp of meteor hammers split egg on the north side. Cute. | ||||
Little Monster Boulder | |||||
V0 | Homeless in Brighton
Sit start on slopers at arete left of Trolls Wart. Up to crimp on lip then rock left to mantle arete direct. It’s all about the location. | ||||
South Side | |||||
V0 | ★ OK1
A cool-looking three-stacked rock. Sit-start with left hand on arete and right-hand undercling. Climb directly up and over the boulder. FA: Jamie & Bron Holdgate, Nov 2021 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ OK2
Layback the crack. Stand-start below the crack and climb it on its left side. FA: Bron Holdgate & Jamie, Nov 2021 | 3m | |||
VB | |||||
Little Monster Boulder | |||||
VB | The Trolls Wart
Stand start with crimp and ‘wart’ on lip facing the monster. Mantle. | 2m | |||
VB | Alternate Descent
The cool gritty flake on the left face. Actually has a move or two. |
Showing all 51 routes.