Routes in Mt Coolum

A short easy trad route underneath Yoink. Start at small tree and climb through the orange rock.

Spoonman across to Iron Man's anchor, continue up past 3 FH and start slinging like a cowboy to arrive at camp 3's belay. 5 slings and a small cam will suffice.

Tough little crux, great for improving footwork. Challenge your friction technique.

3 Fhs on far left hand side of cave, lower off single RB.

Climb Dave until you're at the double UBs above the diving board. Continue directly out the roof for some of the steepest climbing and THE biggest, craziest holds at Coolum. Finish at 'CFT''s anchor.

Climbs Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Up and PAST the chains of Kept Man/COD for another 3 bolts to the double rings right under the roof (Camp II/ Gothic Architect ).

The Crazy finale to the top of the cave. Outrageous exposure and views of the full sunshine coast! Quality rock Pitch 3 high above "Call of Duty". (Pitch 2 is still a project).To send this line you would need to aid the second pitch. One day it will all be done clean. ground up. Belayer must be at 3rd pitch anchor for sufficient rope to get to the ground!

Start with the boulder problem SI, and then ramble easily up R to belay on a cool ledge in a really good position.

For sake of the route name, climb Yoink and keep on going as per Who Grazed My Chevy?

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

Cleared for Take Off into the crux of Nuts, combines best of both routes.

A new warm-up option. Up TDLW for four UBs. Instead of traversing right as for TDLW, go straight up past another three UBs into the cave. Finish atop the diving board (double U-bolts). Lower-off.

DM with a batman start to the third bolt.

Start up 'Evel Knievel', head left at FH and across Esoteric Agenda, across Sideways Rain and finishing up at SEH anchors. Pumper.

The only non-steep warmup here. Stickclip. Stemming moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

Prime to fifth clip then across the top of evils rest cave and back into no pants. Creates a sustained link with new upper crux.

Eight Minute Abs from the batman start. Mostly jugs with a bit of spice at the end.

Climb DM to access. Belayer can either belay from there, or the ground. Climb starts steeply directly above. A few bolts trending up and left to chains.

Start up Thiller, climb across to 'Bite The Hand That Feeds' and to the chains.

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

SpoonBaby across into Iron Man, avoids the good low knee bars on Spoonman. Should prove sustained.

Climb FIHP to anchor, and then take a step right and climb straight up the overhung stemming groove to rooflet. Above this make a move to the right onto crimps with bouldery, spacey moves awaiting above. Anchor shared with NIHP on right over the top of bulge.

Traverse right onto exposed arete from the anchor of DM. A couple of funky throws and you're ready to clip the chain. Best to belay from the ground.

Climb from the ground straight up and finish at Full Metal's anchor. Burly never-ending bouldering. Epitomises the style of the right side of the cave.

Start up TDLW for three UBs, then trend slightly L past FHs up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!

Start: Below the obvious grey S.E. arête.

1. 25m. Tricky start up arête to tree belay.

2. 45m. Right up onto arête. No obvious belay.

3. 40m. Up a little more rock, then scrub bash.

4. 35m. Up diagonally left on tremendous rock. Then right diagonally. Comments: Really superb. Could do with a bit of difficulty!

(2023 NOTE: By agreement with the Rangers, no climbing will take place outside of the cave. This is a register of an historical route only.)

Climb HLAFB and keep climbing out of the 120 degree roof following the natural feature. A hellish Rose move through the the roof allows you to get over the lip and clip the anchor.

Techy, pumpy, powerful, core intensive, la rose...it's got it all.

Like Woodridge, had a name change and a rebolt to hopefully generate more interest. Follow four U-bolts up deceiving slab before traversing/walking directly right past two FHs and mantling up into the cave. You'll need a seconder to clean this route.

A short bouldery route traversing the lip of the cave from right to left. This route consumed Ross' life for a time.

Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.

To reach full mastery, keep on going past the Knifey Spooney anchor.

Get safe at TDLW anchor and pull and re-drop your rope for a ground belay. From this point, climb up and out left on FHs and biiig holds to a confounding and onsight-ruining finale.

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man. Make sure you mantle the ledge at the anchor to get the tick! Anchor has been placed too low.

Climb Spoonman and after the crux, at the large jug rest, continue tending leftwards up 5 new bolts, staying off the route to the left. The route finishes on a single hanger with a ring just below joining Spoonmonster.

Note: I opted to not climb to the Spoonmonster anchor as the rock quality is poor, sharp and dusty and adds nothing to the route in terms of difficultly or quality.

Starts just to the right of LCA. Climbs the exposed arete before heading straight up into the thin corner (don't climb left onto the massive horns if you want the full tick), finishing with a wild move to breach the shelf at the top. Belay from ground as for LCA.

Climb Evil, but veer left before cave and up the face above encountering some bouldery moves.

Start as Eight Minutes Abs. Join into Weapon of Choice and finish it.

Start as for 'GR' but instead of going left at the crux head straight up. Bolting not complete. Please stay off for now.

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

Start right of Sceaming for some Mad roof climbing, join into 4 metres for the finish.

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy ending on the upper arête (intended finish which was graded at 28). The right variant finish from the base of the arête has become the new ‘normal’ way graded at 27.

Start as for Three Men and a Ladder, finish at the anchor of Like a Bat Out of Hell.

Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. Now rebolted with U-bolts.

A link up. Start as for Tropic Thunder clipping its last bolt then staying low traverse in and finish up Gasoline Rainbow.

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

Climb GFSKFAP but then continue up through SEH.

Climb Hang Like a Fruitbat to anchor, but don't clip it. Instead head sharply left until you join into Beer Boob and finish. Have fun on the crazy upside down traverse.

One of the best link ups in the cave! Takes in a lot of climbing, and a lot of cruxes. Climb Tropic Thunder to above its last bolt, sticking the hard crux side pull, but instead of moving right to clip anchor, move left and finish up GR.

Climb CWAHW but keep on moving left onto COD. Finish up this. The longest route at Coolum.

Starts up Spoonman. Once you hit the arete head left below Ironman to join Gladiator.

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. Back Jump to clean and lower from second bolt.

Linkup - Climbs Eight Minute Abs past the anchor into Call of Duty, via a 60cm sling on the first COD bolt

Starts 3m left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.

Start-up Gladiator, after the crux, climb leftwards on to Taking Care of Business variation, at last jug enjoy a hard low traverse left into the crimpy ending Friction Addiction. This route is fantastic with a great mix of climbing and is a classic link-up well worth doing.

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

Climb Still on a buzz turn first roof and follow the right hand seam, 3 FH. Finish on the perch above the lip of the cave.

Start as per Crazy Horny till fourth bolt (long sling), then move sharply left to the second bolt of CBTF, finish up this.

Combines the cruxes of three routes. Start off Knifey Spooney, then into Spoonman and finally veer left into Iron Man. Lots of fun bouldering with good rests in between.

Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. A weird looking line which climbs really well. Make sure you bring your kneepads for this one. Popular.

Do Caught by the Fuzz and keep going over the roof above the anchor. Finish at the niche just under Kissing the Lip.

Climb HF but continue left into WOC and finish at anchor.

Climb up and across Evel Knievel for about 7/8 bolts, until the obvious large break landing you at esoterics jugs. Finish up Esoteric Agenda, long slings will ease drag.

Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts.

Climb Weapon of Choice and make your way into Renewable energy.

Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 24. Back jump to clean, lower from second bolt.

Links the start of Knifey Spooney into the finish of Wholly Calamity. Some great moves down low to an easier finish than Spoonman. Take a long draw for the bolt before Spoonman crux, and another long draw for the bolt above Screaming's horns.

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

Start on Caught by the Fuzz, keep going through the roof and finish directly up Armed to the Teeth. Multiple cruxes

Direct start to Full Metal Traverse (start at the true north boulder problem and head left to finish at full metal's anchor. So bouldery and sustained.

Climb Screaming Insanity, but instead of clipping anchor traverse right and join onto Crouching Tiger, Hidden Climber.

Climb Evil for three bolts before trending sharply left for a burly traverse below SO (past the weird double bolts). Joins SO for its top two bolts.

In the middle of the giant scoop make your way on some funky blob aiming for a horn at the lip. Follow the feature and finish BBJ anchor.

Climb Crazy Horny skipping the 4th bolt, to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a two bolt link-up. A bouldery finale actually involves downclimbing. A better finish.

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and you're done.

Follow the jagged lip feature going across right. Finish as BBJ.

Climb Crazy Horny into Frey's Link (to the anchors of FMT - 600mm sling), but keep going over the block and finish up Grazed Anatomy.

Climb Guns For Show, Knives For A Pro to anchor and then continue onto Sideways Rain for an extra 15metres of pump. *Requires 2 ropes.

Defunct (was the batman start to SO).

Batman start from 3rd ring bolt of EWNP. Climb officially starts from the two closest holds to the 3rd bolt (funky jam RH, layaway LH) long steep moves up and left to Space Oddity anchors.

Coolum's highest route. Climb CFT and top out on the ledge. You might like to pull and re-drop your rope to lessen drag. Step right, and blast through steep but juggy terrain into the stratosphere. Some longer draws at certain spots will ease your pain. The final bolt (anchor) is just below the top of the cave and currently sports a leaver biner. You can just get down on a 60m from here, but back-jump to clean. (Was closed, but has been rebolted - 2015)

From UV belay station traverse left upward following the ramp. Once over the bulge it's easy climbing to the anchor. This large ledge give access to the Dawn Wall above.

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.

Assistance is Futile into Animal Mother then all the way to Call of Duty’s anchor. Long draw on Crazy Horny's anchor and enjoy.

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for three bolts. After that, finish up Grazed Anatomy.

Start on Assistance is Futile. Straight up and instead of going left to the Full Metal anchor, keep going straight all the way up to the True North anchor. A bouldery start leads you to a nice pumpy ending. Nice link up.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Start at the True North boulder problem, climb this for its first bolt and then head left via some cool pinches to the 2nd bolt of Assistance. Go through some crazy techy bouldering that keeps getting harder. Eventually re-enter Full Metal's traverse at its last bolt and finish at its anchor. Also can be done direct clipping Frey’s Link last FH.

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip. Amazing bouldery climbing without many tricks. Great for getting you strong!

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

Go from UFO all the way through to bring back the kneebar. Insane bouldering.

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

Ultimate into grazed.

Batman start at the anchors over the lip above kneebar too far. Reach up and grab those starting slopers out left and start from there. Heads straight-up and finishes standing on huge ledge.

Climb to Chevy's last bolt, go left and finish up GA.

Separation thru to demolition mans anchors. Out there.