Routes in Octopuses Garden

Great featured climbing up the scoop, then leftwards to the last bolt and anchors. Mind the tree.

Starts up the right side of the cave then left through the roof on wild "Ninderry-solid" features. Finishes up the middle of the headwall. Awesome steep climbing at a moderate grade.

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce. Can also share 1st bolt with Bruce, but isn’t required. 5FHs, 6FHs if using Bruce’s first.

Up left side of cave to shared anchors.

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

Starts a few meters to the right of Bruce and Nemo. Stick clip the first bolt. A climb needing some thought.

At the far left hand side the wall as you first arrive at the crag, 10 m left of Yellow Submarine. Can be used to access the steep wall of The Eastern Seaboard, but not access gully routes.

Start: 2m left of Lava Tube under cave. Slab for first 2 bolts into cave and 3rd FH. Get all tangled up getting to the 4th FH and turn the lip. Continues straight up to chains. 7 FHs

First 2 bolts of Water Line then bust out left and up punching thru a few cruxes. Most excellent.

Last line before the wall rounds the bend. Quality micro-route. Easy start, hard boulder problem direct through the shield, pumpy little finish.

Scramble over loose cave floor to the middle left side of the cave. Straight up the vertical mid cave and into the ledge. From the ledge it's straight through the roof to the lip of the cave and out on to the head wall. Extra bolt on ledge if you want but adds drag, runners advised

Second climb from the left. Plenty of questionable rock and a big run out between the 3rd and the 4th bolt.

Start off the terrace above the previous routes. Short and intense. Heel, toe, gut busting core. Turn the lip to the anchors (double bolts) however back cleaning required.

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

The centre line straight through the heart of the cave. Head up the vertical face at the middle back of cave and ascend to the back ledge of the cave. From the ledge take a leap of faith out on to the knobby protrusions then summon your polar bear strength to climb straight across the roof and over the lip to the head wall.

Same start as Tuvula but take the right hand crack.

Easy scramble up into scoop on R side of cave. Steep L trending line up scoops and crack on headwall. Jamming crux will make you think you’re at Frog! Possibly 22? Repeaters can decide.

Start 2m right of BSB, Superman start into the roof following obvious line to headwall. Joining BSB at its 4th bolt.

Undercut start then up the steep left leaning crack. Break directly up the gently overhung white streak. Super solid features with good gear, shares anchors with Guam.

Cracked face near the right end of the buttress, climb this to a shallow corner and a thank god ledge. Thought provoking gear in the top.

Load up the crack, punch out roof and mantle into blankness joining into Pitcairn. Bold.

The obvious steep juggy crack, at break traverse left a move or two then up face with a committing move to chains.

Start up black streak right of chimney, fiddly gear to flake followed by sustained face climbing to shared anchors with Kiribati.

The following trad lines are found 30m up the hill on the cracked wall. One set of cams and two packs of wires is sufficient, all routes have shared bolted anchors.

Begin just right of and behind big tree. Bouldery climbing up steep leatherback wall on good gear. Good gear in roof crack then traverse right to join tuvula and finish up that.

Located hidden up the gully just beyond the trad wall. This route and MbP both climb the slabby pillar and then the living-room sized boulder wedged between the walls. TU is the left route directly up the guts. A closed project for now.