Ascents in New South Wales and ACT by Anton Korsun having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Night time simul as one pitch. Cruisy 2h 22m C2C, complete with a "where are the bolts?" moment on the traverse.

First time doing the trad finish. So cool. Going right at the roof looked like loose death blocks ready to fall so went left. Maybe it's solid, maybe not, I didn't risk checking but be careful on the lunch ledge, right above ya.

Getting smoother. 1h 14m c2c

Simul in just a hair over 1h car2car for a warm up. Beautiful day until lightning and hail hit as I topped out.

49 minutes car 2 car 🚗

This one felt fast, but we got pretty awful conditions so moved conservatively and placed more pro than usual

Much faster than last time. 7 hours C2C pitched out (not including sunset lunch).

Date approximate, mid-July I think, led all pitches. Climbed as a cold and wet waterfall in the rain

Cool route for summer. Finished up the last pitch of West Face.

Third lap! 5.5 hours car to car, which is cool considering we pitched everything out and climbed at a pretty relaxed rate of speed.

A fun bolted slab - like Tom Thumb meets the Wolgan! Bring loong extenders (even double em up) as I feel the bolting requires them.

Toppie Solo Onsight. Between the fallen off start holds, odd (but safe) bolting and the whole stop-start, this feels like a climb that's a little past it's prime.

Like old uncle Bill dozing off in the rocking chair - he's full of stories and we love him. Yet he snores at the most inappropriate of times and we lowkey know he was much cooler back in the day.

He's always worth a visit though

This is a good climb!

Repeat. Walked in after dark, climbed by headlamp which was by far the coolest way to do this

Repeat

Repeat. 5th lap I think.

Repeat. Still my favourite climb at piddo - wins a full star over Eternity imo, but I haven't met anyone yet who shares that view.

Actually pretty rad once I remembered how to climb rocks. Shorter climbers may diasagree.

Tradddyyy. A bit of a grunt down low but a fun, fun, fun splitter is your reward! An abundance of no-hands rests gives it the grade.

ooh

Recovering from a cold, so went partnerless today and played around with lead solo systems.

Possibly the first repeat by someone not on the FA team (neither Jason nor I knew anyone else who had done it) - and I have to say this is a brilliant addition to Blue Mountains climbing!

Despite some soft rock that can be expected on a long new route, almost all the loose stuff will clean up with another few repeats and all belays are protected from rockfall. There isn't anything too ugly, and gear is much better than expected (look both ways in the chimney).

When it comes to large gear, we brought three 4's a 5 and a 6. The 5 and at least two of the 4's are necessary, but the 6 only protected the first few ~gr18 moves of P1 and spent the rest of the climb sandbagging the follower.

P1 - Not the best gear, whether you bring the 6 or not. Up worrying flake or corner with care.

P2 - Brilliant climbing and gear once past the chossy start, very much Samarkand P2 in style but 5 grades easier!

P3/4 - If you want the full value ~60m marathon chimney experience, end P3 early below chimney/roof (hanging stance off threads - do it 🤪). Then P4 quests forever into the void... we had a 70m rope, not sure if a 60 reaches.

P5 - Funnily enough, the most dangerous part of the route is probably the fully bolted ~gr15 traverse. Easy, but be careful with breaking footers on second, you don't want to take that swing!

P6 - Is ok. Bolts.

P7 - Is absolutely insane for the grade - brilliant and relentless face climbing. I think that the true "line" wanders left after 3 meters, and stays left of the first bolt (don't clip it! climb left of it entirely on gear) before rejoining the bolts at the 2nd bolt and questing up past the 3rd and some more gear.

Whatever I climbed felt every way 22, but going direct and clipping the first bolt looked even harder.

All in all: great climbing and good gear, easy access and wild hanging belays - go do it!

Perfect jambs and good feet. Climbing a system of wobbly flakes has never felt this fun!

boom

Crackin' conditions, crackin' company, and my oh my a crackin' crack!

Pleasantly surprised to get all the moves (and some juicy links). The walk out in the dark and rain may be harder than the climb itself - how do people usually get out?

Pretty stoked to check this out. Mostly went up to do the 180 move, Ben's photo of which got me keen on cracks in the first place!

That went well, so I kept going to the birth canal. Surprised to do all moves (and clip all gear) free! But I know it gets harder later... Working a ground-to-birth-canal send could be a nice short-term project (Jacques suggested 25 to there but I found it a huuge step up from the 24 version 🤷‍♂️)

At the grade and well protected if you go right at the top. Thought-provoking (ledge fall potential) if you go left

TRS warmup - clean repeat. Just keeps getting better 😋

Happy to throw a clean lap on this, tho I seconded p3 and 4 this time - definitely stronger than a few months ago. In half the time and not as tired.

Climbed in one pitch. Belayed off the tree. Drag was fine, just extend stuff.

1st pitch only - climbs better than it looks. Bomber (but large) gear the whole way with bolts for belay/rap.

Climbed in 2 pitches.

While theCrag quotes its length as 78m, you get more when adding the top slab, the "approach" and the detour to the main summit.

We got to the start via the tourist route. Not sure if thats the right way, but it seemed obvious.

In 2 pitches.

I don't know if what I climbed has just seen its first ascent, but for the self-preservation of prospective ascentionists and their belayers, I hope it's seen its last.

A grand adventure of strangely masochistic attraction, that follows whichever stack of hollow blocks appears to pose less chance of death.

Keen for pitch 2, but Zac's leading this next time 🙃.