Ascents in Central Western Slope and Plains

Easter 2000 - backed of after crux traverse due to unfit nameless partner !!!

bailed, too slow. Next year...

I lead first pitch nice onsight mark lead second pitch by time we got to pitch 2 it was 2pm and we started climbing at 12 so with the crux done we still didn't have time to finish bit of a shame but next I'll be ready to finish her

Stormed off.

Bailed off after the traverse 2nd pitch due to not being comfortable with the anchor situation in the corner. Had 2 nuts and a small cam in place (didn't want to use a number 3 on the loos-ish block) which I was happy with but we were a party of 3 and couldn't get it equalised well enough for my liking. Had imagies of it failing on the next pitch and the 3 of us getting into real trouble. With 2x50m ropes were able to rappel off at this point, just. Traverse pitch to this point is quite fun and safe. Dissapointed not to continue but definitely not ashamed. Will be back for the send!

A particularly awesome second pitch in a brilliant location. A really lovely line, too- it was disappointing not to get to do the famed traverse pitch but with only one confident leader it was not feasible (well, safe) to finish. Would absolutely be worth coming back for, it has a real adventure feel... There was an pre-made anchor! left at the top of the second pitch, and two double rappels got us back to the ground.

Most likely a classic, however we started well right, or didnt traverse right enough and went up the wrong gully. We then decided to bail off the slings which were thankfully left by other people which meant we didnt have to leave any precious gear! After the first rap the ropes became stuck and we had quite a successful self rescue climbing up to a point where we could free the ropes then downwards lead to the next rap station.

Went to have a crack at this (probably classic) route as some kind of minor preparation for Flight of the Phoenix later in the week but failed to find the start (we think) and after wandering up the wall for 100m or so decided to bail off some conveniently left bail slings. Had a minor epic doing this as the rope got caught, ultimately resulting in some very nice climbing back up to free them and then down climbing to prevent it happening again. A very successful self rescue attempt which i feel is an achievement in of itself in the Bungles!

Bailed after pitch 5 into vertigo. There is some pretty dodgy rocknup to this point. Can't report on pitch 6 onwards.

Bailed after pitch 5 into vertigo. There is some pretty dodgy rocknup to this point. Can't report on pitch 6 onwards.

Bit unorganized on this one... got to the 5th pitch and realized there was no way we'd be off this thing before dark, and it was less risky to bail while we could and find our way back to the track while we still had light. Way too big a day for a party of 4. Had to bail off rapping off small trees

Climbed the first two pitches and then bailed due to slow climbing (routefinding) and heat. Second pitch felt quite hard, but we may have been off-route.

The easiest way to find the start of the climb is to walk back on the scree until you see the tat on the bolts. This tells you where the first pitch should go. Also, I accidentally pulled off a large block at chest height right next to the start, so it should be pretty obvious.

The approach is quite challenging. Took us a bit longer than expecting and with bad weather caused us to re assess at the bottom of the climb. We left without getting on it, rather than possibly descend in the dark. Looks like a great climb though.

Bit of confusion finding the best way in, might update the info at some point once sorted....

Anyway we finally got started and I linked the first 2 pitches without out too much difficulty but a bit of twin rope drag by the end, and unsure if it was the right belay I opted for the bunch of old slings and cam back up to bring Zac up... we moved the belay left and Zac headed up what might have been the correct route if my belay had been the right one, though it seems its the abseil/bail anchor (which is what it looks like...)....

Anyway, Zach ran out far too much rope than he should have for the pitch and I followed finding the climbing a lot harder and more unnerving than expected for the grade if we were on the right route... A difficult to remove piece of gear or two and a crux getting to the belay left me feeling a little shattered... dropping my favourite chalk bag whilst taking my pack off at the belay kinda just topped it off...

So no quite sure where we were and with my chalk bag to retrieve we placed a bomber wire and rapped off... Have worked out since that we must have done the Cameron/Moon gr. 20 variant pitch which probably explains why it felt more difficult than sub 17 climbing ... fair enough I reckon...

Will be back soon to get the wire back, climb to the top and started working on the Classic Triple....

Started this perhaps a little too late, even considering Drew's previous experience on the route. The first two pitches we climbed (not sure if we were on the exact route after getting down) were technical and delicate, very good climbing. After using up most of the psych tank navigating pitches 1 and 2, decided to retreat before committing to the traverse. I will be back to send this incredible line.

Some of the best quality rock in the bungles. we retreated from pitch for after a case of the spookies. you can definetly link 1+2 3+4 from pitch 4 two 60m raps to the round.

Base is marked with G

Fabulous location. Several pitches in a virus caught up with Bec and we made the tough decision to bail.

Simul P1+P2 together. Simul 1+2+3 looks totally doable with a large enough rack. Rapped the route due to an approaching storm. Help yourself to our bail gear!

P1+2 only. Excellent climbing so far.

Alas, will have to come back for this. Climbing is knowing when to go down as much as when to go up.

rapped of the weired headless bolts just up and right of the 2nd belay. feeling pretty under the weather and not keen for a long route... may have to come back

6 year to the day I try this and it was almost an An exact repeat but we nailed the approach! Next time.

Led the first two pitches, but not quick enough. At 1pm in winter we decided to bail instead of pushing on. Route finding was hard and many friction moves were both intimidating and interesting, far less crack climbing than expected, but highly enjoyable, I'll be back to finish it. Finding the start was slightly tricky, the anchor 40m up has faded a little and took some spotting. Route started in a v groove by a seat boulder. The crack system is discontinuous and vegetated, not what we expected to see from the bottom. But these things do not take away from the quality of the route once you're on it. Both the ogma gap and danu camp tracks are currently vegetated and could do with a bit of discrete pruning if you have the tools.

Started around 230pm after cornerstone, lesson, don't fuck with bungles routes. We scrambled up the gully to the start of pitch 2 which I led. We could never locate this white streak that is mentioned so I ended up trending left far too early with fairly big run outs on easy terrain. I got a nest of gear in and ended up spotting 2 bolts at the start of the base of the wide crack (rap bolts for the mixed route), it seemed to be above a white streak so I traversed that way. Pretty hairy gr 18/19 slabby traverse on small crimps with decent run outs and questionable rock, got the heart going and the fall would've been a proper winger which thankfully didn't happen. Solid effort from the seconders. Jacinda went to lead through the wide crack to get us back on route but with light fading and footholds blowing apart we decided to retreat. Next time!

Thought a 5am wake up without brekky pre-prepared was a good idea, lost the track a few times as it's all overgrown so the approach took slightly longer than normal. Started climbing at 930am and wasted time finding the 4th pitch belay, by 4pm we had a belay and had to make a call to push or retreat. We rapped down to a rogue old white sling which got us to the ground, left our gear and walked back to camp

Tried on saturday and turned aroubd at 4pm from the bottom of the 3rd abseil..

Had to bail due to weather conditions.

Cool route!! I'll be back

Really fun.

Had a few goes at the start and middle, really cool and very sustained

Must have missed some holds on the top out because it looked much more blank than easy!

Finally got the lock off only to bail off the mantel

Bailed from the top, couldn't commit to the mantle.

Worked out the bottom half and the top half, I couldn't put them together though. I also realised when I was perched on top of the boulder, why the photos have a ladder...

Ooops... bit of confusion meant that I’d racked up for the rather easy looking first pitch it was easier to just solo up an easy ramp to set the first belay...

Oh well I guess I get what would have been the second pitch ...

Oops... looks like I headed up the wrong crack ..... an accidental FA... and start of new project ... will be back for round two on both routes ...