Ascents in Hunter Valley by Vanessa Wills having sport-cpr or ascent-date

Interesting to see if taller people find alternative beta. Getting onto arete is tricky. The undercling I originally could use didn’t last very long so the pinch is hard for me.

Rpt, 2 clean laps

2 laps, the effect of being sick for the past 2 weeks showed by the second lap

Two laps to set up a rope swing and take it down.

End of day lap placing draws.

Better today with the cooler temps and the wall in shade.

Rpt, two goes, clean second shot

Cleaned out the glue so now all the bolt plates fit, did the mantle at the top, decided there must be an easier way to do the crux but not much luck.

Three interesting sections with some good moves that can be finessed by technical trickery.

Decided it felt easy on the first burn but the skin didn’t like it, then got super pumped on the send go after taping up.Thankful for the plonka rest.

Managed the missing move, now have a to string it together

I really like the moves. It took about 4 shots, and reconfiguring starting beta after I pulled off the best hold. Now even crimpier. It is Watagans rock however.

Did all moves but one. Interesting moves, unfortunately crap rock. Something to aim for this lockdown

FFA. First go today. Lockdown good for focusing on average local projects. Actually the climb is pretty nice with an interesting crux solution. Having the anchor draws preplaced ( via Marmite) is a good idea.

Did everything but the short person crux. Was in good form when I last did this,

Interesting boulder problem with a powerful heel hook. need to tick it before I shrink as already on tiptoes to reach arete

Rpt. Shares a lot of holds with route to right

Rpt. 24 if starting on the obvious holds to the left of the bolts. Nice alternatives for the short if the main pocket is out of reach

Nice start, good rests. Not too hard, after start. Could be 23. A long sling on 3rd bolt was comforting

3 laps, getting in before the east coast low

Progress, got to second last hold, fingers too sore to have too many shots.

Made some upward progress, just have to link it and hope pebbles stay put

A bit sandy after no ascents for years, did all moves after a brush.

2 laps.

Rpt. A fair bit of dirt on holds, I think we need to separate climbing and abseiling in this area

Was surprised to feel so strong on this, placing draws as haven’t done steep stuff for ages

Rpt

Rpt. Bolts need rejigging on this

Rpt, pretty humid day

2 laps. Hadn’t been in a harness for 13 days. Unheard of!

Nice moves. Not too much broke.

First 2/3 reasonably pleasant

Finally after 18 years I have done this nemesis ( though with long anchor slings). Short person beta is definitely different and involves compressing a shallow mono and a 3 mm flake whilst getting feet over the lip to Dyno for arete hold. The key for me was a slanting right kneebar with left foot on arete so I could get the two tiny holds precisely but still disengage quickly.

Just the back half via alt start into cave and onwards. Did it clean to last bolt second go, but hadn’t refreshed memory as to the last moves on first go due to heinous rope drag so fell victim to the Booladelah factor. Nice to be back here, but the rock is so sharp!

Places were dripping that I’ve never seen drip, but this was not too spoogy considering. 2 laps.

I’m still keen on a right hand start. Super bouldery funky moves I can barely do, and the start feels harder than 26

Had to engage some mindfulness to be calm enough for this balancy tick. Totally not in the zone. Might be a bit easier with my sequence, but it can make up for the rest of the sandbags here.

Rpt, took a bit of gaffing to relearn the sequence down low. Go the double undercling

Rpt. Still cleaning up, but I do like the technical moves

Rpt 2 laps placing draws Demoralising the young guys good benchmark for fitness

Rpt putting draws on, felt ok despite being sick for 2 weeks and not climbing at all, flashing all routes

Rpt, if this is the one I think it’s easier than 22, more like 20

Rpt with Mel

Rpt, though I did sneak in a bridge up high

Nice moves, painful rock. Fell off at last move to rail second go after forgetting about a hold. Pumpy

FFA. Countdown to surgery begins with a sneaky midweek project tick before the rain. The start looks straightforward but seemed really awkward but sequences at 3rd and 4th bolts are great and not obvious.

Finally, good friction today and no pesky tall people making me doubt my sequence

Rather Sandy, and the proximity of the tree is scary, but interesting moves, glad for the better placed re-bolt.

Rpt from years ago. Used some small cams in horizontal above last bolt. Nice technical moves.

Finally found a workable sequence for the short. A rather steep slab

Probably only hard 23. Pretty technical to get into finger crack. Second go.

FFA. Felt good when I finally ticked it, but probably has taken about 16 goes all up to fine tune sequence

Cooler temps and some finessing helped. Need to lead this before the holds disappear.

Had to clean it so not an os. Short but fun