Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V1 | ★★ Eastern Bloc Arete
Up the overhanging arete on jugs and slopers. Perhaps the best V1 of the Frontline! Start: Sit FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★★ Sloper-Dan Milosevic
Sit start low and move through beautiful slopers to roof and finish up jugs. The best problem in the Balkans? FA: Rob Saunders | 5m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★ Berlin Blockade
Sit start at the small cave. Move right and up to top. | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★ The Pincer Movement
Sit start, pinch, squeeze and wiggle your way up the knife edge arete. FA: Saxon Johns | 4m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ Point of View
Up layaway arete. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ Bangers
Straight up knobs just left of the tree branch on top. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0- | ★ M.A.S.H.
Start in the bottom of the little flared crack and go up diagonally left under tree branch. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ Frontrow
Up over bulge on big holds. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V1 R | ★ Choppers
Start 1m right of 'Point of View' and go straight up. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V2 | ★★ Diplomatic Solution
Sit start at the arete with butt on the ground and hands on the shelf. There is lots of sitting on your arse for this one! Sit down for the first jug, then up, have a seat for the next move, up again and over β¦ sterling! FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V1 | ★ Choppers II
Climb left of the flake | 6m | The Balkans | ||
V7 | ★★★ Boogie Knights
As 'Boogie Knights (Original)', but exiting right of the horn via jugs as on 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'. Significantly easier finish than the original. Start: Sit FA: Matt Wilder | 5m | The Balkans | ||
V1 | ★★ Bill Smith | 3m | Forestville | ||
V2 | ★★ Two Big Moves
Stand start on the ledge. 2 big moves straight up. | 4m | Nowra | ||
V3 | ★★ Violent Crumble
Just down the hill below the main boulder of The Eastern Bloc. Start at the back of the cave, head out following the biggest jugs you can find to a mantle. Careful of the cracked footer on the left. Start: Sit. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V1 | ★ Crewcut
Start on pocket and then go up left and top out around ramp. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V3 R | ★★ Mission Impossible
Up the crack finishing left. Quite a sting in its tail unless you're tall. FA: Jason Whitton | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★ The Warm Up
Start matched on the ledge on the left side of the wall, and head straight up. Harder if you do the very low undercling move to start. FA: Duncan Brown | 3m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V4 | ★★ The Bilge
Start on flake then pocket and up to slot and mantle over. Start: Sit FA: Will Holbrook | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★★★ Pipe Dreams
Eponymous super classic left-to-right traverse under the roof and topping out boulder. | 3m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V3 | ★★ Underground Movement
Start on crimps, then go left to the good pocket and up to the top. FA: Jason Whitton | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V7 R | ★★★ Paratroopin
Traverse right out lip of cave to tough mantle then finish up easy slab. FA: Rob Saunders | 7m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★★ Wish You Were Here
Obvious crag classic! Sit start on the right side of the cave. Head left via some funkiness to top out up the ramp. | 5m | Jannali Reserve | ||
V1 | ★ 10
Left of the big crack, on positive edges and pockets. High; bolts on top. | 5m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V1 | ★ A?
Follow the flake through the rooflet. Cave is out. Watch the topout FA: Tim O'Neill | 4m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Dead Calm
Stand start on big undercling on the far left of the roof. Climb rightward to top out on the nice sidepull feature. Tsz Ying Yau | 3m | Black Cave | ||
V4 | ★★ Unknown
Sit start on the big jug. Move right via crimps to the rail, then big move to the huecos. Move upward to finish. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 4m | Nowra | ||
V5 | ★★★ Anorexic
One of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug. FA: T.O'Neill, 2000 | 4m | Killarney Heights | ||
V1 | ★★ 5
There's a trick to this one. Up the next set of overlaps. Again, avoid the chipped foothold. | 3m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V4 | ★★ Diplomatic Immunity
Sit start low in the chalked break on jugs then into the vertical seam, contort yourself (unless short) then up and slightly left to top out. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V6 | ★★★ Aquarius
Traverse right to left as for Cruel Sea into the heuco, but then cut out the crux sequence by going straight towards the topout as for Dead Calm. Stay low all the way with the "upper V5 Lip" being out. Kiu Hei Chu | Phillip Booth | Darien Winarso (No cut beta) | 7m | Black Cave | ||
V1 | ★★ The Pillar | 2m | Forestville | ||
V3 | ★ Tanks a Lot
Start on 2f pocket and rounded crimp then straight up over the sloping bulge. Rightmost climb before the corner. Stay right of the good crimps out left. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★★ Jugalicious
Sit start and finish on an obvious jug at the arete. FA: Glen Jones | 5m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V1 | ★ You Go Slow
Mantle on the slopers and then balance to the top. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V1 | ★ Cave Party
Start at the right side V5 and straight up. Heel hooked and feet off the adjacent rock for the full grade. Good warm up for the V4. FA: unknown Set: al bradley & Al Bradley, 15 Sep 2017 | 2m | Black Cave | ||
V2 | ★★★ The Overhang
| 6m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V1 | ★ 9 - Walkdown Crack
It's a crack so try to jam - if you can't jam you can use the holds on either side of the crack. | 4m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V5 | ★★ Little Buddha | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★★ Mr Smiley
M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet. | 3m | Forestville | ||
V2 | ★ Jugs 2 Ring
Sit start and up on good holds to finish on the jug. | 3m | Nowra | ||
V1 | ★★ Blinky Bill
From the elliptical hold in the back of the roof, move left into and finish up 'Bill Smith'. | 5m | Forestville | ||
V6 | ★★★ Bring It On
The massive super classic traverse. Start from the common point in the cave. Traverse all the way to the right end. Foot ledge rail is out as per all other problems. Start: Sit FA: Ben Ryan/Rob Saunders? | 12m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ 6 - The Layback Crack
The layback crack. Layback on its right side or jam it. | 4m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V3 | ★★ Lay Down Your Arms
Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'l'Homme Obu'), then up left to juggy break then straight up. FA: Rob Saunders | 5m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★★★ The Overhang Traverse
Classic line. Traverse the lip of the overhang on the north side of the southern boulder. Sit start on the sand on the left, sit finish (!) on the grass up on the right. Plenty of jugs, do it any way you want. V3 without using feet on the wall. | 6m | Palm Beach Boulders | ||
V2 | ★★ Have A Proper Gander
You'd better scope out the top of this one first! Up horizontal breaks to lovely rounded holds on top. Start: Sit FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V1 | ★ The Upside
Sit start on hidden double undercling jug in roof and up cool scoops to top out above. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Burnt
Stand start the ledge. Straight up via slopey crimps. | 4m | Nowra | ||
V1 | ★ Bomb Shelter
Right of yellow streak and up overhung boulder FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★ The Lindfield Traverse - 1
The most common start for the Lindfield Traverse is 3. Move left staying low. Move slightly higher at the arete for the second section of the traverse. | 12m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V6 | ★★★ The Joker
A Canberra classic - the proud line diagonally up the front of the boulder as you approach on the walk in. Good positive holds, but still hard work! Note: this is a squat start - you start on the first set of good holds. FA: Chris Warner | 4m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
V2 | ★ Copo Cabana
Right side of the pillar to a high finish on the pebbly jug. Pretty good. | 3m | Forestville | ||
V6 | ★★ Who Killed The Kennedys
Sit start, out the middle of the roof finishing left over the rounded lip. FA: Rob Saunders, 2000 | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Big Red One
Stand start on the jugs. Move right to the big flake then straight up. Slopey top, tough when warm! | 4m | Nowra | ||
V3 | ★ Project 2 Nowhere
Sit/crouch start and straight up via a tough move near the top. | 3m | Nowra | ||
V4 | ★★ Foam
Start in the couple of pockets in the roof, explode out for the slope lip, up the prow and then continue on to finish - one of Sissy's highest problems. Classic! | 3m | Forestville | ||
V2 | ★ Werner Heisenburg
Start at the big jug with a few big desperate moves to the end. Finish halfway up the wall | 3m | Queens Park | ||
V8 | ★★★ Sushi Train
Start on the big undercling with your feet on the back wall and blast straight up, finishing matched on the huge jug left of the spike. Crafty toe-hooks are the key. FA: S.Langris/T.O'Neill, 2000 | 4m | Killarney Heights | ||
V0 | ★ What Am I Doing Here?
From the pocket, traverse right for a somewhat fun (but short) warm up. | 4m | Forestville | ||
V2 | ★★★ Opposition In Exile
Start with a left hand press on the sloped feature around waist height and head up via some beautiful holds to a fun topout. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0+ | ★ Daisy
Climb the arete on the right finishing at the rooflet | 3m | Queens Park | ||
V4 R | ★★ Battle of the Shirts
Climb the left side of the'fish' arete using anything to a tricky top. Start: Sit FA: Gordon Low | 4m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★ The Bright Side
Start in the back of the cave same as The Low Side but pop out the right side of the roof and up the slopey ramp. FA: Rob Saunders | 2m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★ 7 - Discontinuous Crack
Excellent little problem, up the obvious hanging crack. Finger lock or face climb - fun either way. | 4m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V4 | ★★ The Waverley Traverse
Another crag classic. Traverse on any line, any direction, between the cave on the left and the arete on the right. Punchy and desperate in spots. | 10m | Queens Park | ||
V0 | ★ 11 - The Juggy Face
Excellent juggy face. Do it! Can be done with 3 dynos! | 4m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V5 | ★★ Mike's Five
M7,L8,R9,L10,R11,L12,M12 Don't bust a tendon! π« Originally done as a 'no heels' problem. | 3m | Forestville | ||
V5 | ★★ Arms Race
Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'L'Homme Obu'), reach the juggy break and head up and right through scoop. FA: Dave Allen | 6m | The Balkans | ||
V7 | ★★ The Last Great Line
Sit start in the back of the cave on the obvious chalked side-pull, then it's crimps and slopers to the end. Finish up as for "Werner Heisenburg". | 6m | Queens Park | ||
V5 | ★ The Low Side
Start at the back of the cave on the obvious chalked holds. Move out the left side of the roof and continue up the front face via slopey holds (keeping right of the cluster of big jugs). FA: Rob Saunders | 2m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★★ It ain't no Omaha Beach
Start up Mission Impossible, traverse the rising break and finish up left side of Eastern Bloc Arete for an exciting top out. FA: unknown | 4m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★★ Verboten
M1, R2, L3, R4, M4 Classic little problem. Forces the use of hold 2 to differentiate it from Moustaffa, turning it into a nice lock off problem. π« Originally done as a 'no heels' problem. | 2m | Forestville | ||
V10 | ★★★ Rocket Man
'L'Homme Obu' standing start from the big break on If The Shoe Fits. Power out to the LH pocket and finish up Rocket Pants. FA: Fred Nicole | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V2 | ★ Tally Ho
Sit start at the spike (same start as Vendetta). Straight up via the corner/groove. Quite messy after it's rained. FA: Chris Warner | 2m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
V7 | ★★ NSK
Sit start at rail and head right for some funky throws with big holds. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | 4m | Nowra | ||
V5 | ★★ Lichen or Not
Sit start at small tree on left of cave, traverse right and finish up Hollow Mountain Dreaming. Mauricio Chino FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ Teen Angst
| 3m | Queens Park | ||
V2 | ★ Just Do It
Sit start. FA: Justin Ryan | 2m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V1 | ★ 7
Sit start up jugs to the left of Lay Down Your Arms, Then up Lay Down Your Arms above it's difficulties. | 5m | The Balkans | ||
V6 | ★★ Roof Raider
Start underclinging the roof with your feet on the start of Muy Forte. Go under the roof and mantle up the other side. FA: Andrew Bull | 2m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V2 | ★ 5
Right hand in the incut pocket, straight up. | 4m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V6 | ★★★ The Percival Extension
Start as for The Warm Up, then traverse the high flake to top out on the far right side of the wall. FA: Leeson Rose | 7m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V4 | ★★ Thy Mighty Right Hand
Power, reach and commitment! Sit start just right of the rounded arete on some angled ledges. Head up to the two good pockets mid way up the way. Get your feet high and power up to thy mighty right hand slap into the rounded scoop! Hold fast, trust it and topout! This problem loves the long but extra points for the short who conquer it. Set: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 | 4m | East Killara | ||
V8 | ★★ If The Shoe Fits
Sit start on the lowest jug (same as for 'l'Homme Obu'). Go right to sloper then straight up to the triangle shaped crimp, lunge to break and traverse across, finishing up 'Business as Usual'. FA: Tim O'Neill | 8m | The Balkans | ||
V0 R | ★★ The DownSide
Up water runnels. Gorgeous. FA: Tim O'Neill | 5m | The Balkans | ||
V1 | ★ 9.
Sit start then up via slots. Corner of the cave is off. | 3m | Queens Park | ||
V6 | ★★ Vitamin C
M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5 Good problem! Hold that last swing. | 3m | Forestville | ||
V1 | ★ Break To Break
From the jug in the break right of SNC finish up to the slot. | 2m | Forestville | ||
V3 | ★ Moustaffa
M1, R3, M4 Start matched on the slopey rail (as for Verboten ) and go to the ear with your right hand then to the top. π« Originally done as a 'no heels' problem. FA: Graham Fairburn, 1992 | 2m | Forestville | ||
V0 | ★ B?
Up the slab below the cave | 6m | The Balkans | ||
V6 | ★★ A2 is Not a Tank
Jump from one break to the next and traverse left as far as you like. The grade is the number of inches you are under 6'7' times by 2/3. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★ In God We Trust
Start at underclings on the orange blob. Powerful moves up the wall. | 4m | Dead Mans Wall | ||
V4 | ★★ Dentalectomy
M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5. A classic. Harder for shorties. Worthwhile subtle variations at similar grade include (i) M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L5, M5, and (ii) M1, L2, M2, L3, then LH to jug 50cm right of 5, and match. | 4m | Forestville | ||
V0 | ★ She-Oak Crack
Classic, the crack system left of The Blank Wall is a good outing for almost anyone. | 5m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V2 | ★ 11.
Start low on verical pocket and crimper. The top out mantle is a bit slippery, have a crash mat and spotter for the FA. | 3m | Queens Park | ||
V7 | ★★ Muy Forte
Start on the underclings and go straight up to top out as for The Percival Extension. Settling at 7ish down from V9 with a breakage. FA: George Fieg | 4m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V2 | ★★ Love Machine
Cute juggy arete behind big tree | 4m | The Fish Boulders | ||
V1 | ★ Out On A Lim
A river in Montenegro, mantle over little roof without getting your feet wet. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ 3
On the wall proper, layback the right arete. | 3m | Lindfield Rocks |