Routes as boulder in Sydney Metropolitan

9a+ Route. 44+ Moves. Start as for Short Fuse, reversing Anger Management finish as for Supercharged (Centrelink Sponsorship into Major Lightweight). Some serious nec level climbing. R. Hofmann

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

9a Route. 44+ Moves. Start as for Short Fuse, reversing Anger Management finish as for Turbo Deluxe (Rodeo Clown into Major Lightweight). Some serious climbing and next level power endurance needed.

R. Hofmann

Original Vision by Byron Glover. Another epic quest now complete. Centrelink Sponsorship into Major Lightweight. R. Hofmann

"THE LINE" at the Cave.

What may initially appear to be pretty straight forward soon becomes a realisation of clarity!

Climb Rodeo Clown into Major Lightweight.

R. Hofmann

Reverse Rodeo Clown direct into Persistence finishing as per this. Epic Power Endurance!! 8c+ Route

R. Hofmann

Lower right start to J1.

Reverse Rodeo Clown into Yo Mama (Anger Management exiting Persistence) Some decent power endurance! Easy V14? 8c/+ Route

R. Hofmann

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

Tom Farrell

Reverse Rodeo Clown to the start of Anger Management, get a decent rest and the finish as per Anger Management. Fun Power Endurance. Could be V12. 8b+/c Route

R. Hofmann

Sit-Start at the Letterbox Slot on the right hand entrance of the cave just before the end of Rodeo Clown. Reverse Rodeo Clown, into Persistence and finishing as for Anger Management. A fair bit of climbing involved. Could be V12? 8b+/c Route

R. Hofmann

Start at the big Hueco at the back right hand side of the cave. Climb diagonally left joining Persistence after about 12+ moves, finishing as per this. Long and pumpy!!

R. Hofmann

30 moves following the obvious line in roof. Up there with the bests of Sydney.

Stand start on the undercling. Move up using the sidepulls and a lack of footholds to reach the victory jug and to top out.

Elijah Mercado

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

Sugoi is a word that's typically used when you're left awestruck out of excitement or feel overwhelmed. It can also be used to express that something is terrible or dreadful.

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

Elijah Mercado

As for 'Deep Blue Sea', once at the lip finish up 'Cruel Sea' Dylan Soin

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

Tom O'Halloran

Connor Lucas

Sit start to Daoism.

Tom Farrell

Starts near fallen block on undercling for right hand and sloper for left, big dynamic move over block to sloper then up through edges in cave and top out as for everest. Repeated 1/5/05 by Sharik Walker

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton | Sam Farrar

Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision.

Start as for "Persistence", following the right side of holds approximately 2 meters. Just after the deep two finger pocket climb towards the big Hueco on the lower right side of the cave. Climb the far right side of the cave to finish on the start rail of "Major Lightweight".

Byron Glover R. Hofmann

Start as for 'From Dust Till Dawn, head back to the start of Anger Management and climb this all the way. Adds a fair bit more decent climbing.

R. Hofmann

Start as From Dust Till Dawn, head through Persistence and finish as per Anger Management. Another obvious fun enduro classic!!

R. Hofmann

Start and climb as for Anger Management, exit as for Persistence. Spicy finish and hard for the grade.

R. Hofmann

Sit start as for Anger Management, following the right side of holds leading to a big move to a crimpy blob/shield like feature and then a good jug rest. Connect back into "Anger Management" following its sloppy crack line, turning about a meter before the crack opening. Then head directly out towards the front of the cave via a large jug and some sharp underlings. Top out as for "Anger Management".

Byron Glover

R. Hofmann

Sketchy all points off dyno up high.

"Grimacing" into Agent Orange.

Stretch finishing up For Sissies. No pads to cheat the start.

Same handholds as for Bowels of the Devil, but starting with a high right toehook. No dynamic movements or pads to cheat the start, just strict flexibility. Hard to grade.

Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels.

Starts as a sit/crouch start on the chalk at the far right of the crumbly cave and then up the “v3” and into the roof to finish on the last big jug (same finish as leviticus)

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Sam Healy

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

R. Hofmann

Start as for nasty and go directly upwards finishing last moves as for RBTL.

Tom Farrell

Big first move to finish straight up the ramp.

Low start to Romper Stomper.

Sam Healy

Shared start with Obsession.

Keep traversing left on some small edges until you reach the flake, joining the crux of Moments Of The Past.

Liam Healy

Start matched on the 2 crimpy underclings, traverse right and do a big dynamic move to a good edge on the break. Finish matched on the big horn just behind the ledge.

Sit start on the jug under the rooflet and follow the arete all the way to the top of the block.

Might need a brush as it's getting mossy again.

Sit start on the scoop and move left using some crimps to gain the big rail before doing a huge span out left to join Odin's Raven.

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent.

Elijah Mercado Sam Healy

Grubby paw direct but exiting via blue and green directly over. Just gave it a twelve based on grubby paw direct, most likely everything here could drop by one.

Start & finish as for Grubby Paw but direct to hueco as for The Smiling Assassin.

Chris Beers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Alec Landstra (post breakage)

Stand start in the break. Tough move through rounded pinch/layaway dish to slot then up slab. Given V10 by James.

Desperate rounded sidepull climbing in the alley up the face.

Left of The Pincer Movement, follow chalked cobwebbed crack.

Elijah Mercado

Start on the shield, up to a crimp then massive dyno to the jug.

Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Contact finishing up Savage

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

Start Warmup Warren and traverse right into Tiny Defence.

Start as for Silent Bob Low, and climb directly out via the micro crimp, skipping the wet rail from Silent Bob. Once on the soccer ball sloper after the lip go directly to the jug. The other holds further right on the ledge are out.

Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12)

Dishonour into Dust Management. 50 moves of hard v13.

Start on the right of Major Lightweight on a left hand side pull and right hand edge. Big move to the pocked with the left hand, right hand crimp intermediate then to the gnarly 2 finger pocket, hand foot match the left and hold tight to pull over the bulge to small edge via sloper. Top out "RIGHT" via slopers and edges. Gymnastic and Powerful.

R. Hofmann

Start matched on the large block. Make a couple of huge moves to a pocket, then big span out left to crimp side pull, head straight up the face before a scary mantle to top out. Powerful and big moves. Deceptive and seems to be rather solid for the grade.

Tom Farrell (FA) Tom Farrell

Elijah Mercado Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Start as for Persistence climbing this for about 2m before breaking off via an obvious perfect deep 2 finger pocket heading straight out to the cave entrance via some good holds. Then make a huge span move between 2 good holds heading right. Release the span via the Rodeo move and finish matched on the starting rail of Major Lightweight on the outside of the cave. Easier if you are taller.

R. Hofmann

Starting on the slot under Major Lightweight, climb into the hueco where From Dust Til Dawn starts, finishing right hand in the 2 finger pocket, left hand on the mega side pull jug. Not a pretty climb, but one of the last sectors left unclimbed.

Start as for Persistence, climb this to finish out the crack as for Anger Management.

Peter Jeavons

Climb Anger Management to the ledge then exit left through Danger Zone.

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Sheila Binegas

Peter Jeavons

Short Fuse exiting via the final Persistence Boulder. Radical!

R. Hofmann

Sit start as for "Blue Alien" heading left to a large pocket and a sharp crimp with a thumb catch. Make some difficult moves to gain the large left hand pocket on the lip before heading to the break.

Byron Glover

Upper body intensive moves: Campus to the good hold, followed by an easy exit.

Peter Jeavons

Emmanuel Madayag

Man of Steel without the dyno. Aurel Gelot

Grimacing into Anthrax

Start at the back wall just left of the smiley face (in a small hueco), head straight out the to the infamous slopers and a thin break, finishing over left on a jug.

Great moves linking in to Voodoo Child.

Start up Spooged, reverse Foam, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Start Redetonated, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Start up Bowels of the Devil, finishing up The Solution of 1993.

Do the first move of Abacus, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty. No traversing straight into the Sushi Train start holds.

Standing Start

Start as for Nasty and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

Scoots

Mattias BM

Sage G

Michael Tonon

Direct finish of Super birdman.

The Plunge into Cruel Sea.

The Plunge into Aquarius.

Start off pedestal block and compress upwards.

Sit start on the good edges in the far back of the overhang, head diagonally left to reach the side pull flake and slap your way to the top.

Liam Healy

Shared start with Obsession but go directly up instead, exiting between the two horns on the slab.

Liam Healy

A classic on some of the most perfect pockets you can imagine.

Stand start in the big jug under the roof and do some big moves to a committing topout.

A one move wonder. Stand start on the reinforced crimps, trust the terrible feet and do a big slap to the lip.

Liam Healy

Stand start with LH on the big jug ledge out left and RH on the good edge in the roof.

Follow the crack / sloper ledge to top out right.

Start on the left side of the big break, do a few long moves to top out over the bulge.

Left variant to Prometheus. Start with the undercling and the crack, head straight up.

Sam Healy