Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sport | |||||
18 | Gakwers
Start: Behind the big boulder. Scramble up a few metres then up the nice twin cracks to a big ledge. Up the wall above (3 manky BRs) to a big chossy cave. Up the inside of the cave and over the top. Tree belay. FAR: Tony Burns, Andrew Barker 17/02/2007 | 28m, 3 | Freshwater Beach | ||
16 | ★ Freda Mind
Right of the hand crack, feel free to use it FA: V Wills, 2010 | 10m, 4 | Du Faur walls | ||
18 | ★ Du It
Fingery start to same anchors as FM FA: V Wills, 2000 | 10m, 5 | Du Faur walls | ||
18 | ★ Faur Out
Up past side pulls and long move to jug. More easily up orange rock FA: V Wills, 2000 | 10m, 5 | Du Faur walls | ||
20 | Aunt Emmeline
1m right of offwidth and up to share anchors. Unfortunately the easiest way to the anchors is via the offwidth after the last bolt. FA: V Wills, 2010 | 10m, 4 | Du Faur walls | ||
22 | ★ Oh Muriel
Start 4m right of offwidth. Up to pocket then nice moves to break and slopers and hidden holds to top out. Anchors up slab. Take two 4m slings to top rope or rap off FA: V Wills, 2010 | 14m, 4 | Du Faur walls | ||
23 | ★ Flowton
Start at the sheoak stump onto large boulder on ledge and top out to rap anchor FA: V Wills, 2010 | 12m, 4 | Du Faur walls | ||
23 | ★ Pibrac
To the left of the high cave. Up to ledge then slopers to top out to shared rap anchor FA: V Wills, 2010 | 12m, 4 | Du Faur walls | ||
21 | Eccleston
Thin holds to slopy mantle, finish just above horizontal ledge FA: V Wills, 2010 | 8m, 3 | Du Faur walls | ||
16 | ★ May & Don
| 22m | The Drive In | ||
18 | ★★ Manogamy
| 22m | The Drive In | ||
20 | ★ Pulp Friction
FA: Adam Bramwell & Justin Jefferson, 2005 | 16m | The Drive In | ||
22 | ★★ Wide Screen
FA: Tim Haasnoot | 22m | The Drive In | ||
24 | ★ Action Comedy
FA: Tim Haasnoot | 16m | The Drive In | ||
20 | ★ Riding in the boot
FA: Jason Piper, 2005 | 22m | The Drive In | ||
24 | ★ Sci-Fi
A solid top! FA: Jason Piper, 2005 | 22m | The Drive In | ||
23 | ★★ Intermission
FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2005 | 21m | The Drive In | ||
22 | ★ Triple Feature
FA: Anthony Alexander, 2005 | 18m | The Drive In | ||
24 | Horror Show
FA: Justin Jefferson, 2005 | 18m | The Drive In | ||
19 | Long Arm of the Law
Corner as for Make or Break for 1 bolt then head left under roof to finish for anchors of ICBINL. FA: JL | 9m | Royal National Park | ||
25 | ★★ Krafty Single
Classic of the crag. Starts 3m left of I Can Believe. Bounce up easy wall past 3 ringbolts to roof. Gather your thoughts and push along the horizontal roof to boulder problems finale and and anchor. Back-jump to clean. Extn is a closed project 2019. Pls respect Set: Luke.W FA: CT | 12m, 7 | Royal National Park | ||
24 | ★★ Fight or Flight
Unlike other routes at Rockford, this one is actually near vertical. Start as for Full Term for two bolts then go right and up steep black face on scoops. The crux is quite baffling - use your feet! The bottom half is a bit dirty but top is brilliant. | 14m, 7 | Royal National Park | ||
20 | ★ Standard Deviation
Start as for "CIB", but move L at 1 bolt. Clipping two more on the way. FA: JL | 8m | Royal National Park | ||
23 | ★★ Nasogastric Tube
Start as for the DB for a couple of bolts, then move directly up to FH (that is no longer there opps??). Big move from here to RB and continue to top out FA: JL | 8m | Royal National Park | ||
16 | ★★ Full Term
Grade 16 version of Taipan Wall. From ledge above Crime is Bolting walk left (roped) for about 15m past rusty bolt to double ringbolt belay. Climb right edge of scoop feature on delicious juggy holds. Bolts are a little tricky to clip in places (they are positioned too far to the right). FA: JL | 12m, 4 | Royal National Park | ||
★★ Apple Pie Arête (JL project)
The areté on the far left end of crag. Tricky start, then hard move past 2nd RB, followed by nice climbing to top. Grade 26? Set: JL | 12m | Royal National Park | |||
22 | Lust Object
| 9m, 3 | The Great North Cliff | ||
25 | Geckoville (Open Project)
| 10m | The Great North Cliff | ||
23 | Thin Lizzy
| The Great North Cliff | |||
24 | George of the Jungle
| 20m | The Great North Cliff | ||
23 | Rampant
| 12m | The Great North Cliff | ||
20 | Gothic Horror
| 12m | Kalkari | ||
23 | Watergate
| 12m | Kalkari | ||
23 | ★ White House
| 12m | Kalkari | ||
25 | Rapid Fat Boys
| 10m | Kalkari | ||
21 | The American Way
| 12m | Kalkari | ||
24 | Traction in Action
| 9m | Kalkari | ||
21 | ★★ Mesopotamia
| 10m | Kalkari | ||
22 | Greg Moore's Dog
| 12m | Kalkari | ||
21 | Greg Moore's Dog Direct Start
| 4m | Kalkari | ||
26 | ★★★ Rushmore
FA: Mike Law | 15m | Kalkari | ||
24 M1 | UK Boltfest
| 25m | Kalkari | ||
26 | ★★★ Led Zep 78
| 20m | Kalkari | ||
22 | Snatch of Glory
| 17m | Kalkari | ||
25 | ★★ Gav's Slab Problem
Up flake to gain difficult slab. Technical and sustained. 4 rings to double FA: Gav Portier | 15m, 4 | Planet Clare | ||
24 | ★★★ Rapper's Delight
Centre line following 4 rings up low angled slab FA: Gavin Portier - Barry Jones, 2009 | 18m, 4 | Planet Clare | ||
17 | ★ Abe Simpson
Slopers lead to a commiting move onto the overhang. Haul over and follow bolts up arete to finish. | 10m, 5 | Berowra | ||
18 | ★ Look Blue Go Purple
Hard start up the scoop or much easier start a bit R. Up and left to top FA: Chris Yeomans & Dale Tweedie, 2005 | 10m, 3 | Berowra | ||
16 | ★ It's For You
Easy but reachy. Up to ledge , hard move then R to arete and jugs and L to anchor. There is a harder variant moving left to the centre of the wall clipping one bolt. 19? Anchors replaced 2017, then after breaking biners, replaced again 2020. FA: James Holbrook, 1984 | 10m, 3 | Berowra | ||
15 | ★ Taylor Made
Jug haul up past rings. Start: right side of buttress 30m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Now has loweroffs. FA: Julian Anderson, 2000 | 6m, 2 | Berowra | ||
18 | ★ Stone Grotties
Starts at the bottom of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Often top roped. Move left at top to lower off | 8m | Berowra | ||
19 | ★★ Ladder of Gloom
Traverse rightwards into the base of the obvious rock ladder. A bit of trickery makes it easier. Stick clip first ring makes it better on the nerves. New anchor out left adds another 4 moves and restores some of the original climbing. Start: 4m right of Cenotaph Corner. FA: Mike Law & James Holbrook, 1980 | 12m, 4 | Berowra | ||
22 | ★★ Ladder of Death
Stick clip ring bolt, committing dyno to jug, save a little for move into the ladder. Start: direct start to 'Ladder of Gloom' FA: Barry Jones, Steve Jones, Dave James & Julian Childs, 1994 | 10m, 5 | Berowra | ||
19 | ★ Medium Strip
Scramble up right of hole in cave then left and up nose. FA: julian andersen | 10m, 5 | Berowra | ||
23 | Sumo
A few long draws required, backjump or second to clean. FA: lloyd wishart | 18m | Berowra | ||
26 | ★★ Raisin' Hell
Another route from the industrial revolution. Start: 1m right of 'Dingo' | 8m, 4 | Berowra | ||
24 | ★ Dingo
Hard powerful climbing on an 'industrial' medium. Start: 2m right of 'Soap'. Warning: Would be wary of climbing on the first three carrot bolts currently, all rusty and third is hanging out a long way | 8m, 4 | Berowra | ||
20 | ★★ Luv Handles
Climb through steep terrain to finish at the anchors of Raisin' Hell. Potential bad fall in to ledge around the 3rd bolt - don't blow it! belayers stay sharp! funky moves upside down and behind the head... Start: 2m right of Raisin' Hell FFA: Alexander Bunyip | 12m, 5 | Berowra | ||
21 | ★ 3D Wimp Out
Climb steep arete then up head wall. Start: Right 'Arete' on the Cave of Soap | 15m, 4 | Berowra | ||
25 | ★ Alison
Climb up to cave then up thin top wall. Start: 1m right of '3D Wimp Out' | 12m, 4 | Berowra | ||
24 | ★★ The Red Menace
Climb up to cave, leave cave rightwards then up thin finish. Start: as for 'Alison' FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004 | 15m, 5 | Berowra | ||
17 | ★★ Yesterday's Heroes
Bouldery start then left a bit, rightwards up yet another thin finish. Very popular warmup. Start: 3m right of Gash. FA: Venus Kondos, 1995 | 12m, 4 | Berowra | ||
21 | ★★ Palm Sunday
Up yet another thin route Start: 1m right of 'Yesterday's Heroes' | 15m, 3 | Berowra | ||
21 | ★ Samantha
Now fully bolted, and has its own anchors. More consistent than DC. Start: 2m right of 'Palm Sunday' FA: Scott Butler & James Holbrook, 1980 | 10m, 3 | Berowra | ||
22 | ★ Dangerous Currents
Directly up past 2 bolts. No sneaking out right. Start: first route on elevated platform right of 'Samantha'. FA: dan raison | 6m, 2 | Berowra | ||
20 | ★ Eccles
Popular route, up thin crimps. Will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing. Start: Immediately right of 'Dangerous Currents' FA: Stephen Eccleshall, Scott Butler & James Holbrook, 1980 | 12m, 2 | Berowra | ||
20 | JHTB
Up line right of 'Eccles', initialled. Has been retro bolted. Very hard start to jug, then straightforward. The grade is historical, probably harder than Bill Collins off the ground Start: right of 'Eccles' | 8m, 2 | Berowra | ||
24/25 | ★★ Bill Collins
One word, Sharp!! If you have leather tips, it's a shoe in. Crimp up painful holds, clip anchors and cry. Classic if you like that sort of thing. Start: Where the elevated platform drops. FA: Mike Law, 1980 | 10m, 3 | Berowra | ||
22 | ★★ Gidget Verdon
Hard start, even harder with the loss of a hold, originally 22. Up to 3rd bolt then move rightwards. Start: 8m right of 'Bill Collins'. FA: Mike Law, 1980 | 15m, 3 | Berowra | ||
28 | ★★★ Butter Knives
An utterly desperate wall climb on tiny holds. Strong candidate for sandbag of the millenium, originally graded 26, but latest talks have it at 28/29 Start: 4m right of 'Gidget Verdon'. FA: Mike Law, 1980 | 12m, 4 | Berowra | ||
22 | ★★ Great Expectations
Start in the middle of the pocketed wall 12 m L of GOM. Swing around and on pockets to easy mantle finish. Set: Tim Mayer, 27 Mar 2016 FA: Tim Mayer, 1 Apr 2016 | 8m, 4 | Berowra | ||
23 | ★★ Grumpy Old Men
Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. two bolts to lower off. bouldery. Start: 4m left of 'Scones of Doom' FA: Gavin Portier, 2009 | 9m, 2 | Berowra | ||
23 | ★★ Scones of Doom
Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs. FA: Mikl Law | 15m, 4 | Berowra | ||
24 | ★★ Omnopox
Through bulges to finish slightly left. Reputedly tough for the grade, you decide. Start: 2m left of 'Glamorpus' | 15m, 3 | Berowra | ||
24 | ★★ Glamorpus
Awesome overhanging route Start: nice little mantle then awesome climbing | 18m | Berowra | ||
23 | ★ Are You My Pussy
A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb 'Are You My Mother?' to 2nd bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U bolt then finish up 'Glamorpus'. FA: Barry Jones, 2009 | 19m, 6 | Berowra | ||
25 | ★★ Are You My Mother?
One for the tall people. Boulder up to bulge, commit for the throw then commit a bit more for the mantle. clip safety bolt and rest forever. tall people grab chipped finish hold, shorties - feet up with a little dead point for finishing hold. Start: 3m right of 'Glamorpus' | 12m, 4 | Berowra | ||
22 | ★ Green Eggs and Ham
| 15m | Berowra | ||
20 | ★ Zooloft
Rightwards on slopiness then up nose, all the holds are in the wrong place, it traverse right around arete up high. Desperate but fun climbing FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 12m, 6 | Berowra | ||
22 | ★★ Scott's Edge
Nice sequence to start then easy climbing for the rest. Start: little sequence that makes the climb | 15m, 4 | Berowra | ||
19 | ★ Comausminpab
Through small roof then up wall and flake. Remove tag on 2nd bolt. Start: 2m right of Scott's Edge | 12m, 3 | Berowra | ||
20 | ★ IGMC
Rooflet then sandy breaks. Bolt on lip has been replaced. Start: 1m right of 'Comausminpab'. | 12m | Berowra | ||
24 | ★ Natasha
Climb through pockets to tackle thin section above 4th bolt to gain chain Start: 3m right of 'Fox Sox Pox' FA: Scott Butler | 12m, 4 | Berowra | ||
21 | ★★ Looks Poxable
Another crag classic. Made even more so after rebolting. Up through pockets then 'blank' wall to finish. Start: 1m right of 'Natasha'. Anchor added on slab on left. FA: Scott Butler & James Holbrook, 1980 | 15m, 5 | Berowra | ||
21 | ★★ Mental Fatigue Direct Start
Go direct, left of the original start for MF, past two rings. Start: 2m left of MF | 12m, 4 | Berowra | ||
18 | ★★ Mental Fatigue
Nice crack with 'good' underclings and 'easy' moves. The block that the lower off was in is cracked on 3 sides and has a tree growing in it, so it was moved down to more solid rock. | 13m | Berowra | ||
22 | ★ Broken Candy
Up wall 1m R of MF. Use the original start right of MF, or start up MF and R (but why?). | 13m, 3 | Berowra | ||
23 | ★ Torque Is Cheap
Great wall climbing using some great holds and some small ones as well. Gain the break then venture up the slab to finish. Start: 4m right (up slope) from 'Mental Fatigue'. FA: Gavin Portier, 2009 | 10m, 3 | Berowra | ||
21 | ★ 24'
Marked. Bouldery start (BR) then move past 2nd BR to break. easy going to the top. Start: 3m left of the corner. | 12m, 3 | Berowra | ||
25 | ★★ Daily Grind
Technical past Ubolts and crimps. Start: Marked. FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 10m | Berowra | ||
22 | ★ Flake Thing
Up arete to a very hard finish. Traverse R at the top to Wall Thing. | 12m, 5 | Berowra | ||
19 | ★ Wall Thing
Nice moves with good little crux. 3RB to anchors. | 12m, 3 | Berowra | ||
18 | ★ Boundary Rider
Up and R | 10m, 5 | Berowra | ||
23 | ★★ Life in the Bus Lane
| 10m | Crosslands | ||
16 | Nasty
Short thin slab with 2 RB and DRBB. 1m left of LTN. Rock has crumbled in several places possibly making this pitch harder FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2009 | 6m, 2 | Crosslands | ||
10 | ★ Less than Nasty
Up Block into corner to ledge then up slab to DRBB. 4 RB then DRBB. Great for beginners to learn to sport climb. FA: Rod Wills, 2009 | 12m, 4 | Crosslands | ||
16 | ★ One Hit Wonder
Over large block then up slab to DRBB. 2m right of LTN. FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2009 | 12m | Crosslands | ||
21 | ★★ Youth Enhanced
| 10m | Crosslands | ||
18 | ★ Mind Quest
3RB's to lower offs FA: rod wills, 2009 | 9m, 3 | Crosslands | ||
19 | ★ Exterior Expectations
| 15m | Crosslands |